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  #196 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2018, 04:12 PM
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Pugsy, I don't know where that will end up and the cut is inconsequential because I am flushing doors which means that front edge of the whole quarter gets cut away. Its merely a loose rendition.

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  #197 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2018, 04:23 PM
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Right on....just throwing out the "how to move a bend" idear....
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  #198 (permalink)  
Old 08-17-2018, 04:33 PM
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That panel looks pretty damn cool to me...

I can understand the picklex in a shop too, it's just a little prohibitive for me. I can use my diluted phosphate to preserve too, I was just thinking the picklex would be cool for wiping the flash off just before W&G remover and then epoxy.

I just dumped a pile of cash in my Harley in the last couple weeks too, so the drain on resources is getting critical...
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  #199 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2018, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Right on....just throwing out the "how to move a bend" idear....
I would not mind watching a demonstration. Flatten, put dolly edge at new bend and hit at correct angle to start a bend, right? I had worked it with the vise a bit until I realized about flushing. Mainly because it takes an act of Congress to get one sharp bend on our brake. I thought about asking what steps to make the patch in but John had refreshed my memory somewhat and I ended up being able to wing it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
That panel looks pretty damn cool to me...

I can understand the picklex in a shop too, it's just a little prohibitive for me. I can use my diluted phosphate to preserve too, I was just thinking the picklex would be cool for wiping the flash off just before W&G remover and then epoxy.

I just dumped a pile of cash in my Harley in the last couple weeks too, so the drain on resources is getting critical...
If you got a quart trigger spray bottle, I believe you would be sold. Main unique feature of the product is that it is benign under paint, according to the hype. To us, the smell is the first mind-blower. Then when you wet a towel with it and wipe rust away you go wow. Then begins the part of life when you can't imagine how you got along without it. The Cat floor freaks me out, it has stayed so clean. It really has changed things for us, epoxy now is a larger one-stroke task that includes all parts instead of several nagging hat changes to the paint side and gun cleanings plus cleanup that happen hurriedly at end of days. Only took probably ten trigger spray squirts, three shop paper towels, and four disposable gloves to re-protect the A body in five minutes. It does not completely stop sweat rust but seems to hold off surface rust from ambient humidity real well.
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  #200 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2018, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I would not mind watching a demonstration. Flatten, put dolly edge at new bend and hit at correct angle to start a bend, right? I had worked it with the vise a bit until I realized about flushing. Mainly because it takes an act of Congress to get one sharp bend on our brake. I thought about asking what steps to make the patch in but John had refreshed my memory somewhat and I ended up being able to wing it.
No, don't flatten. Just hold the pointy end of the comma dolly about where you want the bend and kinda "swipe" blow with your slight crown body hammer. Just put the metal where you want it without flattening.


Just try it next time, and it'll come to you instantly seeing as you pound metal around already.
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  #201 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2018, 03:44 PM
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here you go.




You Tube
"> You Tube
" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">
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  #202 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2018, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
No, don't flatten. Just hold the pointy end of the comma dolly about where you want the bend and kinda "swipe" blow with your slight crown body hammer. Just put the metal where you want it without flattening.


Just try it next time, and it'll come to you instantly seeing as you pound metal around already.
Ah, the comma. My big one is kinda squared there but the newer junky hollowed out HF one be kinda pointy. The swiping with hammer move in itself is kind of an advanced maneuver, and a valuable skill. I have also been known to take a chisel over to the step-down on top of the anvil, to move or sharpen a line. I just tend to not bend my bends enough to crease until I can assure they all work. Sneakang up, if you will. As time goes by, I'll act with more confidence. I must say, that patch I just made would have presented a challenge to my forty-something self. But it was just a matter of walking in and doing the things, to make that now. I knew what to do once I thought it over, and it was really simple just like everyone said. Doing a neat, professional job of it is something I'll add in more and more as I become more fluent in shaping. First, do it. Second, do it neatly.

I did not remember to try to add bulge to the bead like what Rip is dealing with on his T door skins, but seriously... most folks would not. Too easy to perfect it in the filler stage of the job, and chances are you'll have to wipe there anyway. Gosh, I wonder if he has seen this thread!
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  #203 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2018, 04:57 PM
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Wow, video! Shot by assistant, to boot. Thank you for the demo, sir. I have thanks button mashing to do next time I'm on the tablet (phone no worky for that). Looks like if'n I clamp the little comma in the vise, it would do. IIRC, it is not only sharpened but also rounded which might help. The snippy tone you may have got from my initial response was part just too much Model A lately. I did not want to think of it much once I hit the clock. Through history, when I start thinking seriously about jobs during off hours is when I've become more serious about the work than even the employer and things implode because I can't care if they don't. My folks had their 55th anniversary this week and while I didn't fail to post about cars... it slipped past me. I am in unfamiliar territory having advanced this far and stayed this long on the job, and it takes all my will to maintain status quo. I try to contain the complaints because I love the job and I try to bottle any frustration in my posts. But like any reliable V8, leaks occur.

Thanks for your willing contribution to my education, Pugs. What a guy!
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  #204 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2018, 05:04 PM
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Pugsy, you ought to drill and tether that damn thing with a chain or something so it can't hit the ground because we don't need another pic like David's last, ha ha. I'd have to start calling you both Krakatoa. Like the vocanic island of the same name... crack-a-toe-ah, get it?

I bet that steel chunk sees it's share of shaping action.
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  #205 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2018, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Pugsy, you ought to drill and tether that damn thing with a chain or something so it can't hit the ground because we don't need another pic like David's last, ha ha. I'd have to start calling you both Krakatoa. Like the vocanic island of the same name... crack-a-toe-ah, get it?

I bet that steel chunk sees it's share of shaping action.

Ya, I spent a while on the mill carving that point out. Can't get a 90 bend from a 90 piece of block so the edge really helps.


Haven't used it too much, but it sure comes in handy. Oh yeah, hit towards the bench so she don't crack a to.
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  #206 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2018, 11:44 PM
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I have watched the proceedings and I am impressed!! I think I could fashion a tool 3 to 4 inches wide to do that with. I am not sure if you have read my latest post I have a idea to move the bend with a step flange die I have a die that has the right depth but I don't want to make things worse. check out the plan. BTW I lurk within here..
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  #207 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2018, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post

If you got a quart trigger spray bottle, I believe you would be sold. Main unique feature of the product is that it is benign under paint, according to the hype. To us, the smell is the first mind-blower. Then when you wet a towel with it and wipe rust away you go wow. Then begins the part of life when you can't imagine how you got along without it. The Cat floor freaks me out, it has stayed so clean. Only took probably ten trigger spray squirts, three shop paper towels, and four disposable gloves to re-protect the A body in five minutes. It does not completely stop sweat rust but seems to hold off surface rust from ambient humidity real well.
That's the part scares me. I already have enough addictions to expensive tools...
I'd say I'll try it, but if as you say, once I go down that road, there is no going back, then I'll have to continue... what to do ...
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  #208 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2018, 12:58 PM
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That's the part scares me. I already have enough addictions to expensive tools...
I'd say I'll try it, but if as you say, once I go down that road, there is no going back, then I'll have to continue... what to do ...
Bomb stuff with clearance aisle aerosol crap, just enough to keep air off it. I was gonna warn you when I linked you by saying "Its high", but forum and phone were clashing at that moment and I was out of time to edit and add those two words.

But I have not shopped comparable products and did not select Picklex, just am happy we have it and can see that having it on hand has been profitable in the boss's face. He was eager to make sure we have plenty.


Whatever you choose to do, remember sanding the bare steel clean is a must before applying any coating that stays. My approach to this when working on my own dime in my own garage on my own ride was to brush on epoxy just as soon as I uncovered an entire panel and had it 80 gritted and degreased. Minimal cost, time spent, and mess made. Least number of repeated operations.

When I made it all around the car, then a quick blocking to knock down the faint brush marks (foam roller is best, I know that now but one brush well rinsed is cheaper) and a thorough sanding with a DA had me ready for either additional epoxy or primer-surfacer over the whole car. What I did at that point was buzz then mud then reapply. Then it was ready to sand and apply primer surfacer.

It can be difficult for me to see things from a hobbyist point of view but that is genuine hobbyist advice and while that was so long ago, it is still a valid approach with all things considered. If you do not have epoxy on hand, rattle can and wipe/sand when you do.
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  #209 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2018, 05:06 PM
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That's a cool "dolly" in the video Pugsy. I have gotten into having stuff like that to make stuff. I am not doing perfection metal fabbing but to knock something now, stuff like that is awesome.

These are a few pieces I got from a metal supply place I have gone to for years. The big one laying flat on the bench is THE BOMB! Oh damn it's nice to have that thing!

Brian
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  #210 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2018, 06:47 PM
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Those do look handy! Its just whatever is there. I rely on the vise and anvil a lot but there are various tubing slices, angle, plate, and what not in the danger zone there under my bench. Then theres the trusty frame rack and even a hunk of railroad in a corner. I have been known to use old wheels even.

While you are milling about the punch bowl telling jokes and spinning yarns, Brian I was wanting you and the guys to take a look at this. It does not cover all the bases but its the look I need to be sure about. This kind of outlines the execution plot-

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