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  #2131 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2020, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
New used camera run through.

Anyone have d'ruthers? Option E? The upturned stock style is a turn-off for me.



I like C the best. Not that it counts, just throwing it out there.

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  #2132 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2020, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Very nice what is the color name I like it a lot
Howdy, David. It is PPG #6233 Ford Competition Orange.

Owner saw it and wants stripes over the top now.
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  #2133 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2020, 06:11 AM
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I like C the best. Not that it counts, just throwing it out there.
Thats helpful. C got the only other vote and after seeing the selection, I lean towards C.

Almost think I ought to leave that part unfinished. So it does not go like the Cat trunk floor.

It may be difficult to hold the cowl top's shape meanwhile though, without at least a lip. More ask Mike, but thats better to do on a Tuesday.
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  #2134 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2020, 12:48 PM
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Roll pan. Straightedge says bottom is good, its the spray paint creating an illusion.







Been plug welding tubs to car dis mawnin. Right one did, left in progress. Blew the first hour trying to use some overslam bumpers for the trunk from the rumble seat. Won't work and probably doesn't need anything.









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  #2135 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2020, 07:17 PM
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I keep wanting to bolt the tank house walls back in just to be sure they still go, and to maybe help hold things still. But epoxy first makes sense.







Don't forget that ain't all yet, up under there. Fender reinforcements plug on next. Along next to the rows of rear fender bolts.

I just know you want to see down in the briar patch-



Never fear. After cleanup and black, a filler panel goes over the top of that and theres one for below as well.

To better show where the engine sits now-



Seeing the trans tail lurking in there reminds me... but I don't remember that I said anything more than I had set up a mock seat and heel pad...

Right foot position seems like it will be OK. Toe board will have to start like right under the pedals and have a more gradual angle than most (6 speed trans), like 30 degrees. Theres a big clunky boss on the trans case that will get cut back but if the heel is an inch outboard from the tight spot as-is, before trimming that boss, it is in a good relationship to the brake pedal but that one needs to go left to be comfortable. But the boss is right next to where the heel needs to land and as far as I can tell it will be fine although it may not look it. Footloose tried it out too. Not with the loose foot. He wanted a deep set dead pedal for that one.
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  #2136 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2020, 07:32 PM
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Another "Ask Pugsy"... (a question to which I can only imagine one person possibly responding to)

Behind the trunk pan is the trunk well pan. Where the trunk latch support rides. Since the roll pan was an afterthought, the well pan closes the trunk without dropping down to the level of the pan.

This leaves the backside (faces forward) side of the roll pan open, creating a pebble catcher area. In the first pic of last post, left side of vertical tubing, under the flashlight, you can see two black fillers that go in line with the tub inner wall and close off the ends of the roll pan. They plug to the well pan and are to be sealed with seam sealer where they fit closely to the roll pan.

The question is:

Would you leave it at that or would you close off the front of the roll pan with a long filler between the tubs? All plug welded. It could provide additional support for the trunk latch brace but would mainly be cosmetic / aerodynamic.

Box the roll pan backside or no?
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  #2137 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2020, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Another "Ask Pugsy"... (a question to which I can only imagine one person possibly responding to)

Behind the trunk pan is the trunk well pan. Where the trunk latch support rides. Since the roll pan was an afterthought, the well pan closes the trunk without dropping down to the level of the pan.

This leaves the backside (faces forward) side of the roll pan open, creating a pebble catcher area. In the first pic of last post, left side of vertical tubing, under the flashlight, you can see two black fillers that go in line with the tub inner wall and close off the ends of the roll pan. They plug to the well pan and are to be sealed with seam sealer where they fit closely to the roll pan.

The question is:

Would you leave it at that or would you close off the front of the roll pan with a long filler between the tubs? All plug welded. It could provide additional support for the trunk latch brace but would mainly be cosmetic / aerodynamic.

Box the roll pan backside or no?

100%, yes. It will stiffen a lot. Stiff is good.
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  #2138 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2020, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
100%, yes. It will stiffen a lot. Stiff is good.

That's what she said.

I figure it would hang there until doomsday if it remained undamaged. A trusty angled strip by itself along the bottom would stiffen it too. I was more concerned with what will collect there. But ...

I agree. Better looking from underneath and never wavy from behind, added latch brace support. Oh and epoxy all first.

Its getting one.
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  #2139 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2020, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
That's what she said.

I figure it would hang there until doomsday if it remained undamaged. A trusty angled strip by itself along the bottom would stiffen it too. I was more concerned with what will collect there. But ...

I agree. Better looking from underneath and never wavy from behind, added latch brace support. Oh and epoxy all first.

Its getting one.

Ya, crevices in the wrong place are not good and always seem to collect crap.
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  #2140 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2020, 12:55 PM
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Righto. May have hit a snag, read on.

Heres the tubs joined to pan ends-





The crevice-



That may be more of a nook than cranny.

This is topside. Note the latch support on your right. The well pan is a plugged extension of the trunk pan and the seam is hidden under that 1x3 on the left-



Why am I talkin bout that all of a sudden? See the little sliver of shock mount bolt peeking through the uncovered hole here?



My thought was to allow access to those with body on. I think that is out now that I moved the body forward.



There was room between the pan drop and frame but now it all but rubs. Mike agrees access to these will be seldom, if ever, needed. So the flaps will at the very least be tacked in but with a bulge for the bolt head.





Soooo... unsure what I will do about that. Unrelated to boxing the roll pan but perhaps not entirely. Those rear mounts are shimmed and that pan is all over the frame as-is. Thinking whether to snip out the well pan between latch brace and 1x3 and drop a new well pan down to the bottom of the roll pan then extend or brace the latch support or not. That kinda stuff. If you did follow all that, I'd welcome ideas.

I got some Cat progress shots for later.
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  #2141 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2020, 06:30 PM
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Can the shock bolts be installed in the opposite direction, for removal from the front ?

If it was my car, I would want to be able to remove them without cutting anything.

I think the deeper pan to cover the roll pan would work nicely for that and allow an access hole/cover system for the shock bolt.
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  #2142 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2020, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Can the shock bolts be installed in the opposite direction, for removal from the front ?

Hey Howdy and thanks.

If it was my car, I would want to be able to remove them without cutting anything.

I think the deeper pan to cover the roll pan would work nicely for that and allow an access hole/cover system for the shock bolt.
I bet the bolts are installed from the rear for cosmetics, a cleaner look to the possibly visible back end of the frame. If they stay that way it is only a matter of raising the body off the chassis.

All servicing could probably be done with the shock bolts in, from the looks of it. No cutting and thats what the flaps were for, just in case.

I just got Mike to say it was OK. If it was anyone but me, a guy would probably assume it was. To not have the flaps. They were an IDJ-ism and I never questioned about bolt orientation, IIRC.

One of the mounts is visible in one of the following pix. For once I was my own cap'n and just drove the ship. Deliberating as minimally as an IDJ can, I decided that incorporating the drop down conflict and pan filler with one piece was too much alteration at this point and those were to be approached seperately. My reasons:

Altering the latch brace was just going to be too afterthoughty.

I believe I went to much trouble to leave a flange at the roll pan to tag panel seam at that floor height.

Me seeing a little potentially unused trunk stash room at bottom rear is no reason to redesign. Not in this inning. But I can put holes out beside the latch support, through the floor and over the boxed roll pan, that would make the space inside it accessible.

Last but not least, the Pugsy Factor. If it ever gets a love tap from the rear, the boxed roll pan is the welcoming committee.


Aw, now look there what I gone and done... put too many words.

Fixin to show you. Hang tight-
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  #2143 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2020, 07:53 PM
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Didn't like doing it, but did pretty much what I said I would and its fine. Better, even. So now I like it and it is on purpose.

Look close and you'll see that I cut the top part off just out past the edge of the 1x3. From below, that hides behind the frame. The bottom only had screws but I had to cut the end tabs and remove them from the tub walls.



While the centerline marks on frame and 1x3 were in plain view with that cut out, I siezed the opportunity to center it more precisely. Burred 3 body mount holes a little more and was back on this pan fix in a half hour with it all back tight and right.

Onward.

Held an inch wide strip of posterboard where I wanted the new metal, trimmed and finger folded it. Marked folds on metal.

Measured for width, added inch flaps at each end. Cut metal piece, made 3 approximate bends with the brake. Cut a sliver off that and held it in place then bent to fit. Back to the brake to tweak one bend so the panel matched the sliver. Bend tabs over, drill, bomb, in it went-







Kind of hard to make out whats going on there but if you study hard, you'll see. Lighting not the best. But... it looks slick from both sides-



I have the little bottom notches where the screw on shock bolt access flaps were, left to fill in. I was racing to get the thing in there today but only made two plug welds before boss wanted to consult on the Impala. Customer in AM. I assured him what he can't get, I can make.

And I briefly outlined a rough plan for the right A pillar which is badly perforated. The old cut panel section off, fix up, put back routine. Like I did with a 280ZX quarter once, and like I did on his el Camino over the right rear wheel. BTW while I sound all brag-esque he took it to a big indoor show in Wichita last weekend. Did good, got a couple picks.
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  #2144 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2020, 08:43 PM
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Alright, that was yer meat n taters. If your plate is clean, this is dessert. If not, salad for you.

Don't you retired hobbyist types enjoy having lacquer sanded off one stall over?





That is a new hood. Piece of dented in the center crap!

I don't swear but do cuss. If I did, though... I'd put my hand on a Bible and state this car is obviously orange in person and the camera sees red. It is orange as blazes. Looks like a Chevy mill.



They are knocking down clear for stripes-



Psst... step over here into the shadows.

Figured I'd get me some bible thumpin in there in order to maintain balance, as this next part gets kind of dark. I mean if theres beauty to evil at all, this is where those two meet. When this thing hits the road, the driver may see in black and white because all wavelengths of nearby light will be absorbed by it. I never seen sky this black-

Cowl (or Bat-arang?)



Dash (theres a push to get it to Oz. Interior guy in Kansas. Just follow the yellow bricks.)



Tank (hey I shoulda took a pic of that drawing)



We'll make it around the car, hang on...

Looks like more foundation for some nifty full custom interior happenings here, speaker shelf-



Mmm, mmm. Spaghetti!



One of these days we'll see everything shut. Still no bumpers.









A big change of scenery is obviously coming soon for me and Life cereal. Whats the world like without a prewar Ford in your stall? Not sure I remember. He sure does. Oh yeah, theres GM4IDJ on the horizon! Maybe.
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  #2145 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2020, 01:18 PM
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I went right in, cranked up the welder for the 1x3 and was making beautiful music for about ten welds then ran out of wire. Grabbed the more poorly kept other welder, spent the time to get it ready, extrapolated a setting (welder is same model but older, different adjustments) and dove back in.

The one you are looking at was #1. The brown one in the foreground. Drat. Had a nice row going where it can be seen at least now. I readjusted the heat down, got one acceptable plug weld. Went to finish the one where I ran out of wire...

Then that welder quit. Makes the sounds but no spark. I check stuff... yep, nope dead as a nail. I told boss. He got me some wire at lunch just now. Snowing today, broom guy gone.

So, went to fill out my book and my pen quit. Mercy sakes! OK, time to make stuff instead. Whew.

This little box will weld in with the roll pan front extension at bottom, and before at top. It is right under the latch support. That screw is on the front flange of the brace so the box is under the middle of it.



Finally, down to business. Glad I didn't start welding on that bottom overlap seam-







This is how it goes. On top, it will just overlap the flat where the stepped and overlapped plug weld seam is and become a third layer. Should blend right in with a scrape of seam sealer there. At bottom, I will tighten up the fit at the step best I can and plug it through the roll pan edge.

Doing this actually solves a couple other small areas at corners and I like the looks of it. The decider was when I saw that an almost straight line from pan edge to lip seam follows the curve where the inner tub bottom edge steps down.



Its a work in progress. Nothing holding it yet.
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