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  #226 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2018, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
I am going to guess you dropped the body a little on the gig.??



John
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Cut the top of the A pillar from the roof and move it forward?
Moved the cowl forward half an inch. It isn't connected to the quarters, wood used to make the connection so its just clamped. Yesterday there was overlap for screws. I only did this side so the rocker is out of place. I have been shoving pallet wood under the front to let me between the pan and rocker to get at bolts like the A pillar bottom so you might see it shimmed up like that. What I wondered was if anyone picked up on or was bothered by the door and side window being farther apart now, and the pillar width appearance there. You have to imagine gap at that pesky top right overlap which I shall attempt to move the original bend to correct.

The reason I believe I can get away with this despite getting the nix on moving cowl from old Footloose before, is that theres a convenient rust through running up the rearmost bead where the hood seal lies on the cowl. It has to be patched and is outside the bought patch area. Both sides. I say shorten cowl there by chopping off the hood seal area, taking a half inch of rusty strip off the front of the cowl, put a new bead on the trimmed cowl front edge and make one weld of old to old to reattach the seal area. Ya follow that? I see no issues as long as I'm fitting from scratch like this. New blind cowl top panel would also need half inch off.

Here is the loaded driver's B pillar, ready to stick back in. The hinge pins sit perpendicular to the world, so if they work as-is should be no running boatd clearance trouble. Pockets for the door side of the hinge (so door panel stays flush) are provided but I'll need to add a lot of door shell to connect them to so thats next. The hinges are 18" apart, the limitation being lower hinge pin nut vs quarter skin at bottom, and side window at the top. I am just replaying the 33 job on hinges here, hoping for a win. The appendage on top of the lower hinge pocket is the adjustable detent (spring loaded ball).




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  #227 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2018, 12:45 PM
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When I explained the cowl cut for about the fifth time, Footloose understood and is now on board. I moved the hinge post deeper into the pillar after an initial trial fit, then put pockets in the doors, repurposing a brace that is no longer needed just as mock up. Then I hung a door.





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  #228 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2018, 06:09 PM
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Well, here we are. Punch is fresh if you want some.

Door in hole. Needs work all around.







Here is how I moved the A pillars /cowl forward a half inch. Spacer nuts between fixture and dash area. A hole shuffle down at the rocker is in order, and you can see an increased gap between visor and roof side in the above pics.



In the pics below, you see the rusted bead on the cowl sides. Footloose brought out the big horseshoe shaped molding that caused the rust and by the end of five minutes we decided making a new, smooth front edge would beat reattaching the old. My initial plan was cut out the strip where you see green tape, but all the way up, and reattach. But that gives us the opportunity to beautify / customize so the smooth option will be presented. And duh... since theres a molding there which never occurred to me... that means row of plug welds instead of butting because the seam can be covered. That makes it gravy cake to boot.





I also get that the plan involves a bedded windshield which is good for me to know during this planning phase.

There was Cat activity today, mostly involving rear bumper and body mounts but I saw this. Ain't it begging for some customized sheetmetal under the hood?

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  #229 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2018, 05:45 PM
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That cowl molding is more like 3/4" wide. So I made myself a tad more room and angle ironed A and B pillars to each other so they'd quit squirming around. I just kinda generally worked toward a better flush fit today. Nothing sticks out now, theres air all around, and the gap dip is improved after flattening out the pooched body line below the side window some. To a point of needing quarter off to continue working it but now I can do so with the door and pillar standing if I want to. A couple small extensions can tie the A and B to the jig when I get the other side to this point, then rockers and floor will float into a correct position. Hey, looky... I didn't realize both bumpers are hanging on the Cat.

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  #230 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2018, 06:22 PM
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Ok, I`m confused as you say you "moved" the cowl section forward a bit but the door /cowl gap still looks to be the same as in the previous picture.
what am I missing ?
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  #231 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2018, 06:23 PM
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You're going to make a better car than Henry did out of that pile of rust, dents and bondo...
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  #232 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2018, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by FASTFORD View Post
Ok, I`m confused as you say you "moved" the cowl section forward a bit but the door /cowl gap still looks to be the same as in the previous picture.
what am I missing ?
Oh its the pictures. Today's is just one, straight on. There really does not look to be much difference but the bottom of the A pillar has been bumped forward and the whole rear door gap opened up a little. To quantify it... the bolt hole where the A connects to the rocker was partially visible through the hole on the pillar. Today its covered up. Say about 5/8" forward now. I did take additional shots and can post those after awhile, they may show it better. But no, really not much difference except the gaps stay put better now, see today's angle iron in window. I was spinning my wheels with everything loose.
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  #233 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2018, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
You're going to make a better car than Henry did out of that pile of rust, dents and bondo...
Well thank ye for that! I let on that I ain't gonna be bashful with inner structure and the owner was hip. Lotta engine there, needs more car. The crust will be just that when I get done. This is SO fun! There I said it. Anybody need a refill?
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  #234 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2018, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Oh its the pictures. Today's is just one, straight on. There really does not look to be much difference but the bottom of the A pillar has been bumped forward and the whole rear door gap opened up a little. To quantify it... the bolt hole where the A connects to the rocker was partially visible through the hole on the pillar. Today its covered up. Say about 5/8" forward now. I did take additional shots and can post those after awhile, they may show it better. But no, really not much difference except the gaps stay put better now, see today's angle iron in window. I was spinning my wheels with everything loose.

thank you for the explanation
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  #235 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2018, 08:37 PM
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Back. Had to exercise the Ponch.

U betcha, FAST. I reckon I may have fell short on detail shots thus far, at least with the cowl move. You got any other questions, fire away.

I'll add this- the pan has just a few screw holes in it plus body mount holes so it covers up all the cross bracing and rockers from underneath, and I really don't want to disturb it yet. But, my next move once I get the other side like this and temp tie B pillar tops together, is to lift up the body and reposition the rockers forward. Really just because of the trimmed corner that is where it meets the cowl becomes visible. But I have been staying off the pan until the shuffling is complete.

Screwing the pan and braces in with those flat headed phillips drill screws from below should allow me to first set it on the chassis to look at apron and fender fits, then set it directly on the floor for the chop. In everything I am doing, I see the chop at least needing to be cut soon. I don't know how far out what parts are.

Heres the only other angles from today. Best lighting was the first one. Lighting inside the jungle gym there might be touch and go but I will try to be clear on this modification. Still kinda sketching in metal...



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  #236 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2018, 08:58 PM
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Oh wait up... nobody move yet, theres more.

Hey folks feel free to point out when I fumble the continuity. Consider the source.

These may help.







Then this was today, re-posting for adjacent comparison best we can.

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  #237 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2018, 10:53 AM
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Aha! Knew I had taken a fresh meat pic. This was clear back in October. I don't know the green wheels story but are those turn signals on the cowl?



I think the owner's Dad did alright, it wasn't bad looking.

This scene during chassis and floor work freaked me the hell out. I did not know I would be involved at this point but don't guess this really mattered or hurt it. But still...

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  #238 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2018, 02:12 PM
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[QUOTE=idrivejunk;4616467]Aha! Knew I had taken a fresh meat pic. This was clear back in October. I don't know the green wheels story but are those turn signals on the cowl?

the cowl lights were running lights back in the day. there are conversion kits to make them into running/turn signal lights or replacements that are running/turn signal.

I believe turn signal were standard /required around 1954....however some cars did have them as early as 1908 if I remember correctly.....
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  #239 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2018, 04:49 PM
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[quote=FASTFORD;4616525]
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Aha! Knew I had taken a fresh meat pic. This was clear back in October. I don't know the green wheels story but are those turn signals on the cowl?

the cowl lights were running lights back in the day. there are conversion kits to make them into running/turn signal lights or replacements that are running/turn signal.

I believe turn signal were standard /required around 1954....however some cars did have them as early as 1908 if I remember correctly.....
Cool I had pondered what them big holes were for.
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  #240 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2018, 06:28 AM
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I hope to have a worthy update today. What I have going was just too complicated for a Monday and I ended up chasing my tail. I did get myself back to where I started after refinements to the fit of the hinges. Had the pockets out of the door yesterday and left off needing to take the door back off to weld things. I may need to change gears. Brain stuck in granny.

I am adding solidity where possible and something I feel I can incorporate here is a minimal door intrusion beam behind the skin that extends to the ends of the door and in case of side impact overlaps the door jamb so the door doesn't just shove in through the hole. Because we all know how light poles like to jump in front of grossly overpowered street cars.
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