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  #301 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2018, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
At the front of one door, the door body line is completely above the one on the cowl. Looks like the cowl is at least an inch low. I have no way of knowing how high the tail panel should sit in relation to the cowl. Only info I had is it bolts directly to the frame and you'll screw up and have the body sitting way too high if you do anything else. I'll just take the support fixture out of the car and start from scratch. Yesterday I joined the hinge posts (with pillar off and quarter hanging) with a dimensionally exact crossmember because I found three degrees of variation in the angle of the posts. That would stand alone. I assumed what I needed to do was get door gaps between the quarter and door first but the reality is I need to align doors to cowl first, then skin that with a quarter regardless of butcher work required.
One thing to consider is the relationship of the grill to the body. When I put the '36 together, I mounted the grill and hood. If the hood gaps at the grill and cowl aline, you know you are pretty good. I don't even know if you have a hood so this may not apply to you but I thought I would throw it out.

I do think you were right to start with the door gaps. That should tell you when the body is reasonably square.

John

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  #302 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2018, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I don't know. Maybe a thin strip of rubber at assembly time. I am to shut up and bolt it directly to the frame with only the apron in between is the only info I have. Well, the situation I described above is what happens when you do that to a fitted and jigged body. On the 33 I had to set the body on the frame then go under and slide shims in where the body didn't touch the frame... after the job was completely painted and all.
LOL, been there done that.......Still got the T shirt!
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  #303 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2018, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
One thing to consider is the relationship of the grill to the body. When I put the '36 together, I mounted the grill and hood. If the hood gaps at the grill and cowl aline, you know you are pretty good. I don't even know if you have a hood so this may not apply to you but I thought I would throw it out.

I do think you were right to start with the door gaps. That should tell you when the body is reasonably square.

John
So the body line is my only true indicator? I can tab all the body panels together as a shell then drop that over the frame but you see... even if I do that, theres no way for me to know if the body runs uphill or downhill when compared to an original. I feel its important the the body sit in the same relation tothe frame as it did.
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  #304 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2018, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
LOL, been there done that.......Still got the T shirt!
I am of a mind that the floor should be rigid enough that leaving a shim out or hitting a bump won't make the doors rub or change the fit. The guy handing them off with floors "made" is not. Zero shims should be needed, IMHO.
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  #305 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2018, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I am of a mind that the floor should be rigid enough that leaving a shim out or hitting a bump won't make the doors rub or change the fit. The guy handing them off with floors "made" is not. Zero shims should be needed, IMHO.
In a prfect world, I would agree but my world is not that perfect...........

John
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  #306 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2018, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
So the body line is my only true indicator? I can tab all the body panels together as a shell then drop that over the frame but you see... even if I do that, theres no way for me to know if the body runs uphill or downhill when compared to an original. I feel its important the the body sit in the same relation tothe frame as it did.
Agreed. That was why I mounted the grill shell to referance it. That allows you to run the body lines all the way from the front to the back.

John
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  #307 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2018, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
Agreed. That was why I mounted the grill shell to referance it. That allows you to run the body lines all the way from the front to the back.

John
Thats what will have to happen then. A tabbed-together shell, complete from grille to trunk lid with no structure... lifted onto the frame then positioned as a unit.
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  #308 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2018, 07:39 AM
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In a prfect world, I would agree but my world is not that perfect...........

John
In my world, a fresh built body should not flex when lifted. Proper position should be found, then all slop taken away so none of it can move a millimeter in any direction. Considering the desired unchanging and perfect gaps, I see no room for flex anywhere. Thats the collision repair background talking but I see no cause to back away from it. Yes the body has to be flexible... until in position. After that, no.
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  #309 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2018, 07:40 AM
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Thanks for your input, gentlemen. Now watch me pull a rabbit out of my hat.
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  #310 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2018, 12:44 PM
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The wood had been squirreled away by someone, here it is.


As I suspected, incomplete and some is home made. Our sheetmetal supplier, who we have used before, is on day 4 not calling back. $1,500 worth, supposed to have come out of TX last week. So there are bigger problems. I think I may have spotted part of the A body's problem... with gaps tabbed in place, the B pillars lean way to the driver's side. Can't see that with quarters hiding them. Heres how it looks now-


I put boss off til afternoon on another task so I could reach this point. By the way, he won't bill for yesterday because he is fair and I am honest on my work log.

This afternoon I will be making a rear window filler panel for the Catalina. It was decided that would be best and I agree. It was my suggestion. I fabbed the window bed and trunk jamb around it and in the end, despite my best efforts, warpage has it rougher than what we ought to try to work with. I will shoot for a flat panel. Plugged in the window area under the molding and also in trunk jamb, and butt welding as little as possible but we are shaving the edge seams. Now thats the way to break a train of thought, switch jobs at peak of confusion!

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  #311 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2018, 07:56 PM
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Forum error ate the words I wrote, theres your pic dump though. Ask if curious.
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  #312 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2018, 03:15 PM
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.Got the passenger door hung today and pinch welds finished door gaps are good,,the frivers side outer rocker is not welded at the back,it will have to be raised slightly tomorrow when we get the Quarter replaced,,one step at a time,
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  #313 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2018, 05:33 PM
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Thats looking darn good, David! Sheetmetal is getting better, for the popular old bodies. Either that or you're making it look easy. Are you pumped up? Knocking around in a rowdy ole '55 post is gonna be fun. When you and John get done, find somebody with a flashlight and you all head out to some dark empty blacktop between hiils. Then tell the flashlight person to come and report the outcome here.

Friday half day, got my new panel screwed in. Needs more work but is close and not messed up too much yet. You can tell my honorary juniour metal forming hat pin is still in the works.

I believe I ran through five seperate techniques before I reverted to what I know how to do, to turn that back flange from a step to a sharp 90 bend. Let's make a game of it. How would you? How did I?



You may see me post additional wordy explanations, and pics from when I fixed the surrounding areas. There could also be Model A talk. I have a calm plan in my head and figure I ought to remind readers that pain makes me mad, and during all the quadruple redundant post, pillar, door, hinge, etc adjustments and much fruitless struggle... there were times I just couldn't grab and move stuff or I would get jabbed, sliced, or pinched by something. So at times it was clamp everything in three directions measured exactly, tack, try, redo... into oblivion. Its been frustrating to the max and I need the stuff, nuf said. Never fear, I'll win.

Now this here new panel... I say I need to have it off a couple more times to finish up contours before weld prep and corrosion protection. Can you tell me why? What does it still need? Study hard, if you like. There are some shots from less complimentary angles for me to show if you spot something.

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  #314 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2018, 05:54 PM
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.Got the passenger door hung today and pinch welds finished door gaps are good,,the frivers side outer rocker is not welded at the back,it will have to be raised slightly tomorrow when we get the Quarter replaced,,one step at a time,
Sorry posted on wrong site,,,i was looking at your page and forgot to change screen,
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Old 09-14-2018, 06:00 PM
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Sorry posted on wrong site,,,i was looking at your page and forgot to change screen,
No worries, friend. Have some punch, its Friday nite!
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