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  #946 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2019, 07:13 PM
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While my results may be borderline sufficient on the sharpness of those joggles, I attribute knowing how to do it at all to our resident champion joggler ( and tipper ) John Long. Tip 'o the hat for another addition to my bag o'trix, sir.

These rod thingys were all I found to use, and the first couple bending passes were without them in there. Four foot 18 gauge radii only get so tight on this brake.



Now don't go ogling this like its two opossums wrestling in a pair of hot pants... nothing is lined up here, its just up there and sorta clamped. If you reverse the windshield, curve stays same but one corner may need to be cut for re-perfection of symmetry. It turned out very close considering how little concern was given to precision durin the process. By the way, Joe cut those strips for me. He muttered " I suck at this" and I said you just need practice. No worries, I marked them just a smidge wide so the glass bed opening could be refined and still be 3/4" wide. Its about a half inch deep. Mike would have liked it at 7/16ths but no splitting of hairs required... it will sit however flush the glass man squishes the urethane bead upon final glass installation.







How you like my header stubs? Those are gonna have to go out through the fender.



I'll have to complete more paperwork to requisition an full set

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  #947 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2019, 07:20 AM
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Hoping for another good day today. But I may have used up all my good humor for the week. Takes more to fake it. This paragraph represents negative things I need to talk about but nobody wants to hear. I'll do my best to keep a lid over the grouch like on Sesame Street.

Happy hump day.
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  #948 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2019, 12:35 PM
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Can you tell I paid bills yesterday?

Nothing to show but I am working toward matching up the cowl top and windshield frame with no bolts in the cowl top and that blue piece out. The back edge of the cowl's curve is anything but consistent all the way across. I did correct the mismatch of angle on the right side of the frame. Frame and cowl have to form a corner joint that arcs perfectly.
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  #949 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2019, 07:21 PM
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Spent the day fussing over these pieces. The blue piece from behind the old windshield frame is what the new frame is clamped to, and its bolted to the cowl top. Everybody fits and has edges now so I'll tack the two bare parts together in the center, remove bolts and blue piece then screw the frame with cowl into the pillars where I've determined final position, then finish tacking to weld all across and fill in bottom corners. So whats in the picture will then be one piece.

Then I'll make that seamless at the cowl and pillars and give all the un-needed flanges a hack. then comes horizontal tubing and vertical inner pieces to bracket the glass bed to the pillars inside. Or something like that. I'll just re-read this if I forget what to do.

With the 1/2" wide molding included, this will exactly match the size, shape, and position of the original glass opening. With 3" off the top.





Stand by, more to come...
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Old 02-27-2019, 07:26 PM
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This is the Ford truck roof job getting started with a donor roof harvest. Due to limited access, the drawing is my suggestion for how to do the seam up above the back window.







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  #951 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2019, 08:50 PM
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That would make a clean install and only need seam sealer at the seam ?
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  #952 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2019, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
That would make a clean install and only need seam sealer at the seam ?
Yep, and that would be after poly primer. If he bonds it, the adhesive will do most of that job. The rest will get 2K seam sealer. Minimizing additional teardown is a big thing and I figure if he uses a nibbler or shears to hack a big window out of the roof first, we can get some grinding spark protection in place, then with the install method it goes more like a newer vehicle roof job.
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  #953 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2019, 12:34 PM
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Heres how its going-





Back here I'll make fill in pieces and trim off the pillar skin area being replaced-



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  #954 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2019, 08:53 PM
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Cowl welded to frame, still on car-



Unscrewed so I can sit for steadier hands-



No real grinding required on the back side, forgot pic though. Cowl top's rear flange is still on there for now. The dash or my floor structure is a tiny bit crooked and / or bent and I don't want to bolt this down and warp it because I will probably weld a stub of that flange to tubing anyway.







I's pretty happy with that. Think I'll screw it on and do something completely different now, that I've been hankering to do as worse as everbody else has been waiting to see.

Stand by for more from Ford country adventures
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  #955 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2019, 08:58 PM
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today's other (bodymen's) stuff

Longhair-





Footloose-





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  #956 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2019, 04:14 AM
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Nice clean up of that weld. What do you use to get into that inside corner?
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  #957 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2019, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Nice clean up of that weld. What do you use to get into that inside corner?
Thank you,sir. Just the rock (3M 1991) to shape it. Through the frame opening from behind. Had to hold it just right and make long, even passes. Of course there were rolocs and an XT disc as well, to even it out before 40 grit DA.
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  #958 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2019, 06:47 AM
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Thanks.
And here I've been using carbide burrs to get in there. D'OH!
And I'm in the fabricating business....double D'OH!


In my defense, we usually fusion weld inside corners and just use a pickling acid to remove the black colour.
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  #959 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2019, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Thanks.
And here I've been using carbide burrs to get in there. D'OH!
And I'm in the fabricating business....double D'OH!


In my defense, we usually fusion weld inside corners and just use a pickling acid to remove the black colour.
You can see a burr in the background on a long reach tool and that was used strictly for inside corners of the frame. I owned one for over ten years but dropped and broke it after having my wrist broke and not fixed. Bought another and it met the same fate in a short time. So I carefully, sparingly use the boss's but burrs are just another thing the world doesn't allow me to have anymore. I detest the slivers anyway, they get stuck in my socks.

The rock can't be brand new, the edges have to be worn some when you start. In your business, things related to welding are probably different than in mine. To a degree, at times, at my job, like in this case... fill is a weld requirement. If a guy hands me a rusty car, bondo, a cutoff wheel, and a welder... thats what I use to fix it whether its right or wrong to metalworking aficionados.

Use what works for you, thats what I do!
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Old 03-01-2019, 02:02 PM
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Roof front panel tacked to frame and revised cowl front flange-



9" x 4' piece of metal bent and clamped where a wheelwell goes-

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