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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2018, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
The only thing I can think to reremind you of is that you need not weld a thing until every last issue you want to handle is resolved. I see you already welded some stuff but what I am trying to drive home is screws. If you just use screws, you can build the car right up to the last metal piece to fit. If that last piece needs the very first piece you hung to move, you unscrew and move it, try again. No commitment, make as many holes as you need. Totally eliminates the "I am damn sure I welded that where the old one was but now it doesn't fit this. The that is already there so I'll make the this fit instead of cutting that back loose." mental path. You just unscrew it all, do your detective work and give it another go until the truest solution blips your mental radar or becomes obvious.

In the absence of 3D computerized measuring equipment, trial and error is just how it has to be done. Just be glad that for example you don't have to be done with the roof and primed by the end of today, thats the world I dwell in.
Haha yeah, I would be in trouble if I were on a timeline. Haha.

Duely noted on the screws. I thought there were SOME limitations to that and that I didn't want the WHOLE car screwed together without welds- especially if I'm gonna sit it down on its wheels.

So back to the question of getting this on the ground. Should I do that and fit everything up to decide if I have to cut the the a-pillar back loose before I go hacking off the PS full rocker and just in general for panel fit?

Right now that's what I'm leaning toward. Right now the thought process is:

1.) Screw the tail panel on.
2.) Screw rear trunk hinges mount/ upper deck panel in
3.) Fit trunk lid
4.) Screw factory rotten quarters and trunk seal channels in place.

This is all to get the back stable and tied together for added structural stability to go on the ground.

5.) Put the rear end in
6.) Put the wheels on
7.)set the car down
8.) Fit every panel
9.) Use this to decide if the roof is good to go on and see if any re-work has to be done to the DS a-pillar
10.)if a-pllar needs moved do it
11.) Take all the panels and wheels back off and get the car back up in the air
12.) Do the PS full rocker.
13.) Screw PS full rocker on
14.) Put wheels back on and set car?
15.) Start quarter replacement?


That's as far out as this plan extends right now. That's a long way off.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2018, 02:00 PM
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I have been following along Guys not making comments. I don't see how anyone can know if he is ok or not. Without the car being braced before it was taken apart or having the door gaps to look at, it seems to me it is all a big guess.

He may be ok, and I hope he is, but I see the potential for this to get hairy.

John
I made this post in June of last year on your first thread. I am not trying to rub your nose in it but I do believe it is imperative for you to stop and figure out where you are really at.

Matt ( IDJ) is giving some good advice. If you need to assemble the whole car with everything held together with drill screws, it will be time well spent.

John
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2018, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
I made this post in June of last year on your first thread. I am not trying to rub your nose in it but I do believe it is imperative for you to stop and figure out where you are really at.

Matt ( IDJ) is giving some good advice. If you need to assemble the whole car with everything held together with drill screws, it will be time well spent.

John
Thanks!

I don't mind criticism- especially when it's constructive. As I've said before, I'm not an expert like you guys. That's why I'm here. I'm amazed every time I get on here at how responsive everyone is. Best forum I've ever been on. Hands down. No competition.

If I'm gonna have to screw this thing all together for adjustment it seems I may as well cut the PS full rocker off now and screw it on and THEN set it down for panel fitment the more I think about it. No? That'll just mean a slight rearrange of the 15 steps I listed above. Or does one follow the above steps before hacking more off?

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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2018, 02:17 PM
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Something to understand about those GM cars is that GM built as many as they could as fast as they could and as cheap as they could. So when we try and make one perfect things don't fit like we want. the fully assemble with drill screws is an excellent idea in my world. Then you can see just what needs to be fixed or modified to get the fit you want. i would start with the doors and rockers so the doors fit right and work from there.

Bracing the body with a temp framework made from light square tube will be a big help as those things can get floppy when sheet metal is removed for any reason..

I would recommend you get this DVD as it is about the best I have seen on metal working. I have a copy and refer to it often.

https://www.classicmetalshaping.co.uk/dvd/

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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2018, 02:26 PM
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Bracing the body with a temp framework made from light square tube will be a big help as those things can get floppy when sheet metal is removed for any reason..

Sam
It is braced inside, and to be clear, it was braced before any cutting was done. Top of rocker (door hinge area) is braced back to inner quarter on DS and PS, there are 2 legs side to side joining everything together, and then there are 2 diagonal braces from the cross members down to the top of the DSE 4-link pockets to help resist buckling in the middle if I do sit this down.

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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2018, 02:31 PM
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You can thank Mother Nature for freeflowing advice, its cold out. Plus life is throwing fewer curveballs at me than last thread.

I gotta leave you to it, and allow the dust to settle on this. Work on it or sleep on it but think on it. Logic prevails. Others will look it over in due time and may have valuable additional input. I did not see you try my initial suggestion and it worked out this time. All we can provide are suggestions, I don't like writing sentences that start with you should or writing words in caps because I am not that good. But I do feel like I may have helped somewhere along the way and thats all I ever need.

Tip o' my hat, John. Obliged.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2018, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
You can thank Mother Nature for freeflowing advice, its cold out. Plus life is throwing fewer curveballs at me than last thread.

I gotta leave you to it, and allow the dust to settle on this. Work on it or sleep on it but think on it. Logic prevails. Others will look it over in due time and may have valuable additional input. I did not see you try my initial suggestion and it worked out this time. All we can provide are suggestions, I don't like writing sentences that start with you should or writing words in caps because I am not that good. But I do feel like I may have helped somewhere along the way and thats all I ever need.

Tip o' my hat, John. Obliged.
I'm trying to follow all of your advice to a "T." I may have forgotten about the part about screwing the whole car together because of the long break I took between the full rocker fitment and welding. The stock roof skin incident and then a loooooonnnng break from the car came between fitment and weld. It was not intentional. Same with the inner roof structure.

Hopefully i can get my butt motivated and there won't be more long breaks, and this will all stay fresh in my mind. I'm gonna start removing the PS door, get the PS full rocker on with screws, screw the tail end together, and then sit it down. That seems to be what everyone is suggesting.

Thanks fellas.

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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2018, 07:08 PM
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Was looking over on lat G for the first time in ages. I was checking out goosedads Camaro build that I subscribed to a year or so ago. He is doing a lot of stuff I plan on doing. His metal working is amazing IMO. Here's the link:

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...7&share_type=t


70 Camaro - Boise, Idaho

I suggest taking a look at his work if you guys haven't already. Very cool.

Anyway, towards the end of the thread he's fitting his fesler flush glass. He's seeing it sit differently on the cowl from PS to DS. I noticed his a-pillar to door gap is very large on the PS like I saw on the DS on my car. It's about 3/4" from the top of the door (see attached screenshot below). This was encouraging to me. It makes me think things might not be too far off and screwed up. The guys in that thread suggested just cutting or adding material in the a-pillars like we discussed in this thread. That's encouraging.



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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2018, 08:29 PM
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my 2 cents.....

After finally finishing my Mustang and replacing almost all the sheet metal from a complete floor assembly on up,there's one thing I've learned about aftermarket sheet metal. Ignore all holes and edges. Line up and align to features such as bends. I think they punch all the holes in one press and then visually line up the sheet in the forming press. RH full quarter lower flange was 3/4" longer than the LH. I had to do a lot of cutting and re-welding after I figured that out but it actually went together better the second time.
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Old 07-06-2018, 05:16 AM
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Hey guys. I've got the PS full rocker sheet metal screwed onto the car. It's close enough to put the door back on to see if I'm close. If it's close I'll align the door, and verify the rocker's in the right place based on how it lines up with the quarter.

After that I plan on fitting the cowl. Then I'll for the roof skin. Next I'll install the winshield, rear window, and make sure the passenger windows can be rolled up to a spot that looks normal.

I hope to have these things completed by mid-morning today. IF, and that's a big IF things look good enough to proceed at this point, where do I go? Take a look at the car and how torn down it is, and I think you'll see what I mean. Do I then set it on its wheels, fir the whole car together (front fenders, nose, hood, any trim I still use, seals, and make adjustments?

After that I think I'd move to quarter replacement. Is this the correct plan of action? I'd love some help and input to keep me going today. I'm missing good guys in Columbus today and this weekend to work on this project, so help keep me rolling to make the sacrifice worth while!! Haha. Thanks.

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Old 07-06-2018, 06:05 AM
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I can't figure out how to edit posts, so I have to double post. I wanted to add some pics of where the car is right this very minute to remind people. Hopefully this can help you help me decide how to proceed. The PS full rocker, roof structure, and tail panel are screwed on. They're not welded yet.

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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2018, 09:16 AM
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Right now, it looks like decklid fit is next. To me. Then move on with your plan as stated.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2018, 10:20 AM
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Right now, it looks like decklid fit is next. To me. Then move on with your plan as stated.
And this thing is safe to set on the ground with sheet metal screws holding it together? Will coil overs add unsafe loading to the body that could twist it? Maybe I should just set it to ride height with bars with a hole drilled on either end and mounted in place where the coil overs belong? I've seen that done before.

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Old 07-06-2018, 11:15 AM
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If theres enough screws, sure. Its not like you're gonna go make a beer smuggling movie and ramp railroad tracks with it like that. Angle iron works pretty handily for mock shocks. Yeah, you don't want springs pushing on the body. Just when you have your stubs made at the shock mounts, have set ride height and are ready to tack them... make sure to take up all slack in the holes so it doesn't change when you set it down. Meaning take the time to be sure they are equal lengths side to side. The subframe/floor sitting exactly square and level assures your upper body measurements stay accurate. You can skip putting the engine and trans in it, lol.

You could make some plywood wheels to set it down on.
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Old 07-06-2018, 11:57 AM
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If theres enough screws, sure. Its not like you're gonna go make a beer smuggling movie and ramp railroad tracks with it like that. Angle iron works pretty handily for mock shocks. Yeah, you don't want springs pushing on the body. Just when you have your stubs made at the shock mounts, have set ride height and are ready to tack them... make sure to take up all slack in the holes so it doesn't change when you set it down. Meaning take the time to be sure they are equal lengths side to side. The subframe/floor sitting exactly square and level assures your upper body measurements stay accurate. You can skip putting the engine and trans in it, lol.

You could make some plywood wheels to set it down on.
Great advice.

I was gonna have the tires put on the forgelines and set it on them. I need to also flare and probably stretch my quarters and fenders. This will be the time I do that too. I'll need the actual wheels and tires I figured to see how much I have to stretch and flare. Once I get the measurements it may be wise to make some wooden wheels as you've suggest so as not to risk getting grind and weld BBs on my expensive wheels and tires.

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