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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2018, 11:42 AM
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I started fitting the trunk lid last night. I have a big rock like the read of the PS is low and so is the front end of the DS. That or the front of the PS trunk gutter and rear of the DS are high.

The face/skin of the trunk lid is not flush with the quarters. Gaps are wider towards the top of the quarters. The quarters' edges may not be exactly where they're supposed to be either though because they're not fastened to the inner deck structure (piece where the trunk hinges are welded to) because it's only mocked up in place too.

Idk if the rock is from a tweek in the trunk hinges or what. I pulled them off the donor car pretty roughly and had to hammer them flat and smooth. I didn't know there were spot welds holding them on. I thought the welds around the edges were the only welds. I was wrong and this led to excessive prying on the hinges, so I wonder if the rock is from this but I doubt it. I also DONT have the trunk gutter seal in yet. I need to sit down and take the time to find or order seals for the test fit of everything.

I suppose I can try fastening the rusted flanges of the wuarters in place to see if I can get the gap right. I suppose I could also remove the new inner deck structure replace the old, bolt the stock trunk lid to it, and see if there is any rock in that stock setup. How should I proceed?

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2018, 11:45 AM
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I tried posting an 11 second video of the rock through Tapatalk and a web browser, but it looks like only photos can be shared. When I press down on the front DS corner I can press it down about 6mm. That's quite a bit of rock I think.

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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2018, 07:21 PM
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Its entirely possible that bent hinges or mount flanges are messing it up, especially with the trouble you had getting them out. I won't go into how to measure again but if the frame and subframe are square to the world, and the rockers are square to that, then the rear window glass bed should be square to all that, at top and bottom. Then your cowl and pillars work the same way. Each pair of reference points should be centered and equidistant from the world. I'm sure I have mentioned setting up a leveled beam over the car to measure down from. For if thats easier. Measure pairs of symmetrical points and compare heights of each. The gap width situation doesn't look terrible so the trunk lid opening may be rectangular and with a bit of twist but probably is lower on one side. Y'know those trunk gutters move around pretty easy with a 3lb dead blow mallet. Retrace our talks if you still lack direction.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2018, 09:15 AM
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that window rubber is gonna hide a lot of that. If you were installing trim, different story. I'd just mock it up best I can to get a look.
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Old 07-15-2018, 12:55 PM
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Thanks a lot guys.

I'm ordering seals from summit for panel fitment, and I'm not too far away from having the $99 needed for free shipping. Thought I might as well order some of the window weld glass since I'll also need it for the panel anti-flutter stuff between the roof skin and the roof structure. Is this 3M product the best?

3M 08693 Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive Cartridge - 10.5 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RW1XCK..._YN4sBbJQAY08W



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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2018, 01:01 PM
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I've got no input on which urethane is best, even a pro installer will probably only be familiar with a couple brands. That looks like the right stuff though.
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:06 PM
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Harder than crap to find for purchase though. There also is a "duramix nvh 4374". Some listings have 4274 and each has the same product description. Same words, fonts, and everything. I wonder if the product number was changed at some point and 4274 is the 2nd gen stuff because that seems to be the only variant I can find. It specifically states that it's for putting between quarters and inner structures though. That one seems to be right too, but it isn't much cheaper. I guess I'll try stopping at my local auto supply store and see what they know about it.

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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2018, 04:56 PM
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What do I do if the rear of the deck lid needs LOWERED? It's easy to shim the front up, but lowering the back- or any section for that matter- seems trickier. I shimmed the front mount point on the PS hinge up to make the deck lid flush with the quarter edge, and it helped, but it also brought the rear up too. The tail panel seems to be straight and swuare with the car. See the pic of the rear of the car. I circled two circles with a pink paint marker. These are the holes where the tail light housing studs go though. They're both the exact same distance from the floor. The trunk pan and the inner deck panel (where the hinges weld to) measure level to each other within .1, so that tells me it's pretty square and close to where it needs to be in relation to the car. I've only looked at the PS and haven't got to the DS. I actually have removed the deck lid since these pics were taken and am going to try the one that came on the car now that the hinges have been positioned. I'm also installing the billet hinges since they're what I will actually be using.

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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2018, 05:08 PM
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My first reaction is to just see if the lid can be twisted by hand with it open. If it has been tweaked, it might easily tweak back. Putting a wood block under one rear corner and mashing the other down gives a little more force. You could rest the four corners of the lid on equal height spacers on your floor and see if one corner is higher, and if theres two lids you could see which is straighter. The key comment I'll probably make is this... those cars can really fit like crap at the back corners of the decklid. Concern yourself with gaps forward of the spoiler, and get a good line at the rear of the lid so it looks level and follows the quarters and you're good if the weatherstrip fits well. Upper rear inner corners of the quarters always need modification, expect it. Trouble spot on these, where quarter, tail panel, and trunk gutter meet. Worry about mostly how the tail lights and spoiler fit, along with the bumper.
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Old 07-15-2018, 05:13 PM
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What happens if you move the tail panel down? Can you? It could be too high. I have seen tail panel height mess with good bodymen on these cars. Man you really need a trunk weatherstrip and your rear window filler panel ought to be in place when evaluating height of the lid.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2018, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
My first reaction is to just see if the lid can be twisted by hand with it open. If it has been tweaked, it might easily tweak back. Putting a wood block under one rear corner and mashing the other down gives a little more force. You could rest the four corners of the lid on equal height spacers on your floor and see if one corner is higher, and if theres two lids you could see which is straighter. The key comment I'll probably make is this... those cars can really fit like crap at the back corners of the decklid. Concern yourself with gaps forward of the spoiler, and get a good line at the rear of the lid so it looks level and follows the quarters and you're good if the weatherstrip fits well. Upper rear inner corners of the quarters always need modification, expect it. Trouble spot on these, where quarter, tail panel, and trunk gutter meet. Worry about mostly how the tail lights and spoiler fit, along with the bumper.
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
My first reaction is to just see if the lid can be twisted by hand with it open. If it has been tweaked, it might easily tweak back. Putting a wood block under one rear corner and mashing the other down gives a little more force. You could rest the four corners of the lid on equal height spacers on your floor and see if one corner is higher, and if theres two lids you could see which is straighter. The key comment I'll probably make is this... those cars can really fit like crap at the back corners of the decklid. Concern yourself with gaps forward of the spoiler, and get a good line at the rear of the lid so it looks level and follows the quarters and you're good if the weatherstrip fits well. Upper rear inner corners of the quarters always need modification, expect it. Trouble spot on these, where quarter, tail panel, and trunk gutter meet. Worry about mostly how the tail lights and spoiler fit, along with the bumper.
Good thoughts. I haven't gotten the second lid (the one that came on the car) installed yet. The Eddie motor sports hinges I have have are REALLY tight and they're what I wanna use for the 2nd lid install because those are the hinges I'll be using for the actual build. I have the pins in the freezer now but I don't expect that to help much and even if it does that will leave the pins installed where they'll be hard to get out. I almost have to ream them.

Anyway, back on topic. I actually just pulled the deck filler panel because I know it's a necessity for this fitment. You probably can't see the exact measurements in the pics from trunk pan upposrt to bottom of the trunk seal gutter, but you can see how I measured. Both sides measured 9.5", so I don't THINK the tail panel and wuarter are sagging down at the rear PS. Ill keep thinking of places to check, but that's 2 measurements that are very similar from side to side. Hard to believe the deck lid could be tweaked 1/4" - 3/8".

As far as the interface with the upper rear quarters, I can see that these gaps between quarters and deck list start out wide under the window and get more narrow towards the tail. What's the recommendation here? Fill the wider part with 1/8" TIG filler rod as necessary?

You say the trunk gutter, tail panel, quarter interface is a trouble slrea that should be anticipated. Do you mean in the very manner in which I'm picturing here for you guys or more issues?

I'll get the deck filler in, get the trunk hinges pins in (somehow), reinstall the original lid, do a little more fit, and post back.

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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2018, 09:48 PM
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Cool hinges. And yes I mean that very spot, above the tail lights. The part hidden under the spoiler is usually so bad its good almost all of them had spoilers. If the trunk lid side gaps are tapered, the window panel is your guide for width at the front. Nice tight gaps at the ends where that panel meets the quarters give you that guideline and you just need to spread the quarters out at the back or draw them in, to make even gaps along the sides of the lid. Personally if not much is needed in case like this, I prefer to split the panel at or near the edge then move the metal and weld the gap rather than add rod. No back fill required that way.
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Old 07-16-2018, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Cool hinges. And yes I mean that very spot, above the tail lights. The part hidden under the spoiler is usually so bad its good almost all of them had spoilers. If the trunk lid side gaps are tapered, the window panel is your guide for width at the front. Nice tight gaps at the ends where that panel meets the quarters give you that guideline and you just need to spread the quarters out at the back or draw them in, to make even gaps along the sides of the lid. Personally if not much is needed in case like this, I prefer to split the panel at or near the edge then move the metal and weld the gap rather than add rod. No back fill required that way.
Split and add...DUH! Why didn't I think of that. That's why I'm here I suppose. Thanks. Split 1/4" - 1/2" away into the quarter I'd think? Yes, given the info in your post, I definitely need to get that deck filler in. Hopefully I have time to look at this tonight and get updates. The trunk lid/ tail panel area always being messed up is a bummer. Oh well. Could chance to learn I suppose.

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Old 07-16-2018, 12:44 PM
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Just past the bend, right on the edge of it. Not out on the face. Just enough so that what you grind will be flat and right up against the bend. If it was real bad, a guy could split right on the corner then add rod as the new rounded corner and weld to it on both sides. If I were you and were just splitting, I'd just tack then remove the panel to finish welding the split probably from the backside. Kinda depends. Now you have the idea anyway.
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Old 07-17-2018, 01:01 PM
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This may keep you busy a few minutes.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/brut...percars-alive/
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