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Old 11-16-2019, 12:37 PM
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Electrical .my LT1 powered 49 ford /parasitic draw??..

My sbc ---in my 49 ford streetrod-- It starts today i put the charger on it- and it starts everytime, awhile afterwards--day or two. ignition just clicks when you turn the key.



Thought it-I was good to go. Wrong?My son says its probably--"Parasitic draw" after engine is fully charged and in Few days[ short while] ,the battery is pulled back down in voltage ?.What can i do to find this problem.???? thanks bob s

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Old 11-16-2019, 03:44 PM
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First, has your battery been tested? Just because it works when freshly charged does not mean it is good. A good battery will charge at around 14.5 volts and will hold the charge.
You charge it, disconnect the battery cable and let it sit for a day or two. Put your volt meter on it and it still should show around 12.6 volts if it's good.
Or you can take it to the auto parts store to have it load tested.
Once you have verified the battery is good,or replaced it, here is a method to find the parasitic draw.

Last edited by Bob37pont; 11-16-2019 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 11-17-2019, 08:24 AM
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thank you Bob 37pontiac.Going out to the shop and start this procedure Today.............right now in fact bob s
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Old 11-17-2019, 10:03 AM
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This guy knows his stuff "car guy" BOOKMARKED IT. BOB S
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:50 AM
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Don't know all about what electronic divices you have burried in this vehicle, but for the LT1 if still EFI, the computer is never really off. It pulls a little power all the time.

Still a good battery ought to sustain this more than a couple days.

The typical test is to put a VOM between the battery negative terminal and the disconnected ground cable to see how much voltage is leaking to ground with everything off at the key switch.

First thing is to unplug all wires from the alternator, often it has diode leaks so you want to isolate it from the rest of the test. If you still see a voltage across the ground cable to battery lug, then one fuse at a time you start pulling them out to see if that circuit changes the leakage voltage.

A battery that registers good voltage but if disconnected from the system goes flat in a few days is shorting out internally, usually an issue with gunk settling down and connecting plates together.

Bogie
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Old 11-18-2019, 08:40 AM
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Monday morning in Michigan.I read what you were saying.... all facts you have on this LT1 its still original EFI. It-- as i check it everyday says it s maintaining 12.06 volts down from original 12.50s.Will try this today.The battery was tested and was told it was good at Advance Auto Parts



I do appreciate the help i am getting...me being a bit forgetful doesn't
help me much. Thank you bob s


ps power door openers -inside trunk light- i unhooked. long ago.just standard components.aftermarket radio tape deck. Don't laugh about the "tape deck" my boys get a kick outa that.

Last edited by bsa_bob2; 11-18-2019 at 08:45 AM. Reason: F
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Old 11-18-2019, 08:41 AM
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Is this the same one that was going dead over and over again a couple weeks or a month ago? You know, the one you wouldn't listen to me and basically told me to go screw myself? I'd tell you how to fix it but you won't listen to me anyway you stubborn old fart. Lets just try everything except what they say! Yep. That's an idea!
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Old 11-18-2019, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55 Tony View Post
Is this the same one that was going dead over and over again a couple weeks or a month ago? You know, the one you wouldn't listen to me and basically told me to go screw myself? I'd tell you how to fix it but you won't listen to me anyway you stubborn old fart. Lets just try everything except what they say! Yep. That's an idea!

Listen Tony! If i could remember everything i have done unintentionally i might be rich.If i slighted you it was not because i didn't need help.Dementia is- Word we don't and she don't either use around here.Once i do it will be curtains with my kustom Kars i have built over 25 or so completely finished them all paint wiring even interiors. teaching my 2 oldest boys now about the ins and outs of Hotrod building. Have to start ..not trying so hard. She says "do whatever you can". I never came out and told anyone to go " whatever"themselves- I can use your help- i get enough tips .i then have to go Immediately to my shop, before i forget the help i did get. Share again what you said if you want.by all means. be glad to say i am sorry Tony
Ia not sure what you told me Tony? i do remember you "Tony" bob s


Was i talking about this battery drain and i rewired the stater ends thinking they were or might be at fault. give me a break?
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Old 11-18-2019, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogiesAnnex1 View Post
Don't know all about what electronic divices you have burried in this vehicle, but for the LT1 if still EFI, the computer is never really off. It pulls a little power all the time.

Still a good battery ought to sustain this more than a couple days.

The typical test is to put a VOM between the battery negative terminal and the disconnected ground cable to see how much voltage is leaking to ground with everything off at the key switch.

First thing is to unplug all wires from the alternator, often it has diode leaks so you want to isolate it from the rest of the test. If you still see a voltage across the ground cable to battery lug, then one fuse at a time you start pulling them out to see if that circuit changes the leakage voltage.

A battery that registers good voltage but if disconnected from the system goes flat in a few days is shorting out internally, usually an issue with gunk settling down and connecting plates together.

Bogie



I just checked the neg post to with The the ground wire as you said i get 12.05 volts i unplugged the Alt but didn't remove the heavier wire. or should i have?


Going back out and remove the large wire right now. be back



I still get 11.05 volts acrossed the neg wire -batt lug and the engine ground
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Old 11-18-2019, 09:49 AM
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OK Bob, caught me at a bad time. That dementia is a *****, my mother went through it.


I'd like you to disconnect the battery and charge it, then read the voltage tomorrow, then again the next day. Trouble is, you have to do this all without re connecting it to the car. Write yourself a note if you must. Tell us what the voltage is the following days when you read it. I believe it is bad. It doesn't matter how many times it tested good, it can still have its own "parasitic draw" internally and go dead.
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Old 11-18-2019, 11:11 AM
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thank you Tony! like I say Always glad to have your input.will put this on my list great day buddy bob s
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Old 11-18-2019, 11:54 AM
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thank you Tony! like I say Always glad to have your input.will put this on my list great day buddy bob s
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Old 11-18-2019, 01:12 PM
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My battery now shows steady12.60 volts ; acrossed the neg post and the neg cable~~~~It shows same exact voltage acrossed the pos post and neg cable also 12.60.


Where do i go now ? or are these readings way off?
of what i need? bob s -----thanks No battery charger involved yet/
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Old 11-18-2019, 01:49 PM
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i have tested all the plastic fuses. Heres what i have. Vom on red battery post 12.62
Steady ----- Vom on black battery post 12.62



Negative cable unhooked~~
No alt hooked up!~~ either wire.-- still 12.62 ~~Am i in the ball park. at all?
keys still in the ignition . please whats next??whats happening in this .car i can't find.No matter where i pull a fuse the same readings prevail.

Last edited by bsa_bob2; 11-18-2019 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 11-18-2019, 02:06 PM
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Hi Bob,

I think what tony is trying to tell you is that this "charge and wait" deal is going to have to be done over several days not just several hours.

Step 1. Fully charge the battery and leave it completely disconnected from the car and the Battery charger. Measure the voltage across the posts of the battery and write it down.

Step 2. After 24 hours of just setting measure the voltage and write it down.

Step 3. wait another 24 hours and measure the voltage and write it down.

Step 4, Look at your day 1 voltage and compare with day 2 voltage and day 3 voltage.

If you see a steady drop from 12.6 to lower and I mean significant drop of say 1 or so volts below 12.6 then replace the battery. If no significant drop is reported on the battery then you need to look at the parasitic draw using the procedure outlined in the video above.

Good Luck Bob and just keep plodding along and you will be successful in finding the problem. I also have memory problems and especially when I am working on something complicated. My fix for that is to write down what I did and what my figures are. You wouldn't believe how much time I wasted by doing things all over again because I forgot what my measurements were.

OK Class in recess till ya get some good data for us! good luck,
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