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Old 09-22-2019, 09:19 AM
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Epoxy primer under Rustoleum? Boat paint

I'm currently building a small 16' plywood cabin cruiser. The majority of the boat will be fiberglassed with an epoxy resin and 6oz cloth. The rest ( decks and cabin roof ) will be epoxy encapsulated. All will be painted with rustoleum..

As far as why rustoleum. topsides paint is just alkyd enamel. Rustoleum topsides is double the price for the marine name and non industrial colors to chose from. Rustoleum also rates the paint for below the waterline on trailer boats, which this will be..

Can I use an epoxy primer like SPI underneath Rustoleum? The boat people told me not to use a marine epoxy primer like Awlgrip 545 although I have found reference to using Awlgrip 545 on a car. I want to keep several protections in place for keeping water away from the plywood. This is not a planing hull and will have a 20hp Johnson outboard to achieve hull speed, around 5.5 mph

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Old 09-22-2019, 03:33 PM
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Encapsulating plywood is a tricky business and from what I've seen over several decades, one has a good chance of sealing plywood hull, cabin and topsides with "New" materials.

My experience is with West System Marine Epoxy. This companies products are excellent and one can also add fillers from various purposes, such as thickening to form Fillets, low spots, general high strength fillers or fillers that can be smooth Fairing. This epoxy as others requires the work area to have plenty of ventilation, but the smell is minor.

West has excellent tech, and they've be at this for many decades. West is also about the only product that I've personal experienced that will bond to "Cured" FRP boats or other materials. For instance adding additional bracing bracing or hull reinforcement, this product bonds quite well over FRP used in boats.

You would need to call the West directly re the saturation that can be reached. You can also look for Smith's Penetrating Epoxy. I don't know if their still in Biz, but I've heard good reports of the deep saturation of Smiths. Also check for compatibility.

Your primary hull strength design should be in your wood materials, plywood and dimensional bracing lumber. Epoxy will certainly add extra strength and can be an excellent coating, but an area such as the Transom will require significant bracing for outboards.

But With West epoxy one can fabricate a boat and add dimension lumber bracing that can be mechanical fastened and at same time the surfaces can be coated with West for excellent adhesion,, as you build the hull. Once the hull and framing is completed you can then coat the bare surfaces and still obtain very good adhesion. No other glues are required and with West a better bond is obtained.

Painting the exterior hull for a day cruise pleasure boat is vastly different that a boat that lives in the water, esp salt water. The exterior hull coated with West
makes a fantastic sealer. But you must be certain the wood is dry, use the correct catalyst (temperature range) and the exact amount when coating !! Not following West's instructions can lead to a real mess. Plus if you add too much catalyst, West can immediately have a very hot reaction.

As far as bottom paint you might be able to add a pigment to West in the final coat. Or you can use a marine bottom paint that resists growth and is Legal to use in US Waters, be it Lakes, Inland Navigational Waters (rivers ETC), or the Ocean. The USCG is very strict re bottom paint, if they don't know that ones paint is approved, then it isn't - Fines are high... Your hull size is pretty same and approved bottom paint is soft, easy to sand and touch up.

Painting over Epoxy with other than a marine paint is best answered by the maker,, West System. They are the expert Chemists. Sanding grit size is very important.

I can tell you that I applied Sterling Marine paint on my entire 45' Sailboat, and
Deltron paint of the mast and boom. The hull was bare of all fitting and equipment prior to painting

After 25 years the Sterling was still shinny, was never waxed, only cleaned with fresh water. The Deltron did start to dull after 10 years of so, but never blistered and with some effort a shine could be had. But this Sailboat was in saltwater 100% on the time and constantly in use. I was quite happy with the performance of both paints. Deltron is significantly less $$. Use a good known paint brand, with a Catalysis.

Remember Topsides take a considerable amount of abuse and damaging rays from the Sun. I'd recommend that you contact a Automotive paint Supplier. Consider PPG, excellent paint and they state that every Auto maker uses PPG someplace in every car, quite a claim.

Auto paint makes has all the info on their Websites and I've found most of them willing to discuss options and compatibility, like primers. One think about primers, Either use the primer from the maker of your color coat, or go with an Evercoat Product.

You might want to check out to "Cold-Molded Boat Construction". Watch a few videos,, a Less expensive mean and much stronger. This construction does not use glass matte !! and believe me in saying the building of a "One Off' Cold-Molded Boat Construction is faster, less $$, lighter, and stronger.

Then check out the sailboat RAGE hailing from Portland OR. I re-fitted & painted my sailboat in Steve Rander's boat yard. He is the owner builder of RAGE. I can still remember Steve opening this Sailboats' plans in his office. This still is an amazing Sailboat, I think that was the summer of 1993.

Have fun, I hope that I didn't flood you with too much info.

good luck,

Michael
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Old 09-22-2019, 07:25 PM
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It's a small boat that Steven Lewis designed called the Chugger. I have lengthened and widened it, since he designed it to be able to expand very easy ( 12' LOA, 4' beam as designed ). I'm sitting at 16' LOA and 65" wide. My boat will have forward remote controls as well.

I was planning on using US Composites supplies, as I've used their poly in the past, and their epoxy is recommended by many boat builders and restorers. West is 2-3 times the cost. The Chugger is just a cheap boat built from lumberyard materials. I'm using 1/2" CDX douglas fir plywood and 2" dimensional Douglas fir for the framing, which is better materials than 'Lewis billed out in the plans. I may order some Okume for the bottom but I'm not sure yet.
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Old 09-22-2019, 07:40 PM
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nice project.
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