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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2017, 10:47 PM
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bead roller dies

lazze and jere kirkpatric have some YouTube on using bead roller. an easy tipping die is to get a cast iron V belt pulley and grind it.

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Last edited by timothale; 11-15-2017 at 10:52 PM.
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Old 11-16-2017, 09:57 AM
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Make the 90 first. Clamp it down and bend the roll into it. Get the profile of the curve, bend it a little at a time, checking it against the profile and sneak up to it. Dont forget to add the lips for the sides. a shrinker will help make the sides the right contour by shrinking the lips. A bead roller wont help you but they are certainly nice to have for other stuff and wont be a waste of money.
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Old 11-16-2017, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Make the 90 first. Clamp it down and bend the roll into it. Get the profile of the curve, bend it a little at a time, checking it against the profile and sneak up to it. Dont forget to add the lips for the sides. a shrinker will help make the sides the right contour by shrinking the lips. A bead roller wont help you but they are certainly nice to have for other stuff and wont be a waste of money.
Am I understanding correctly that that this process you describe above is done without a bead roller. If so, then do you recommend making the first 90 with a brake or clamping edge between some channels?
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Old 11-17-2017, 07:21 AM
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Either way but a brake is best for a nice, sharp, straight bend. The problem with the home use brakes is they aren't long enough to make a 2dr door bottom and you really don't want one made with two pieces. I got by for years clamping them to the edge of my 1/2" steel table and still do when the brake is buried under a pile of crap.
If you want some good door bottoms and don't have a brake just go to a sheetmetal shop that makes ducts and have some made for you. I had them bend 90's in a dozen for me that were 6ft x 6" wide they were very handy to have around and I just cut the length I needed.
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Old 11-17-2017, 09:02 AM
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no gap welding

our 37 Pontiac 4 door has rust thru in the bottom of the doors. I'll probably never get time to fix them but here is good info on patch panel welding
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Old 11-17-2017, 10:52 AM
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Nice bunch of guys over there too. Don't be afraid to ask a question either, they are very helpful.
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:58 PM
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I have a 37 Chevy 4 door with similar problem. I found replacement patch panels for door bottoms in 4 foot strip. Looks like the same profile. Go to Chevy's of the 40's site. They show a stamping for the inner portion of the door bottom and then pre-formed 4' strips for the outer. You might want to check them out. You still have to deal with the folding over of the ends.

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Old 12-11-2017, 09:36 AM
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Thanks very much for this lead. I will check them out.
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Old 12-22-2017, 10:01 PM
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door bottom patch

Mutt, I have read your post and I normally do not normally disagree with others on here, but the advise that you bend the 90 deg bend on the bottom first is not the best way IMHO. Here is how I would start this process:

1 measure length needed add 2"

2. find a round pipe or bar 1.75 or 2.0 longer than the patch.

3 Secure pipe or bar to solid surface or bench with a slight gap to slide metal
i nto.
4. Use jig to create lower roll on the door.

5 now use a "tucks" create the sweep shape of the door (hold a straight edge on the outer skin, you will see that it is bowed in the center)

6. once the shrink on the bottom has the "sweep" locked in, you can now mark the bend line for the 90 deg. This can be hand tucked if you use a chisel to lightly score the bend line, this will thin the metal and allow a clean bend.

7. now the patch can be secured with the 90 deg bend in place and clamp the edges around the bottom, toward the top. then mark the top cut line to either butt or lap.

8 now mark the ends and score with a chisel and tip manually wth a crecent wrench. to 90 deg. then fit and clamp in place to insure fit.

clean prep and weld in

PS Do this with a piece of poster board, it acts like sheet metal and will show areas of shrink needed
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Old 12-26-2017, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35prog View Post
Mutt, I have read your post and I normally do not normally disagree with others on here, but the advise that you bend the 90 deg bend on the bottom first is not the best way IMHO. Here is how I would start this process:

1 measure length needed add 2"

2. find a round pipe or bar 1.75 or 2.0 longer than the patch.

3 Secure pipe or bar to solid surface or bench with a slight gap to slide metal
i nto.
4. Use jig to create lower roll on the door.

5 now use a "tucks" create the sweep shape of the door (hold a straight edge on the outer skin, you will see that it is bowed in the center)

6. once the shrink on the bottom has the "sweep" locked in, you can now mark the bend line for the 90 deg. This can be hand tucked if you use a chisel to lightly score the bend line, this will thin the metal and allow a clean bend.

7. now the patch can be secured with the 90 deg bend in place and clamp the edges around the bottom, toward the top. then mark the top cut line to either butt or lap.

8 now mark the ends and score with a chisel and tip manually wth a crecent wrench. to 90 deg. then fit and clamp in place to insure fit.

clean prep and weld in

PS Do this with a piece of poster board, it acts like sheet metal and will show areas of shrink needed
Thanks 35prog,
This process may work.
I initially thought I could get by with a continuous cross section on the doors, but after further measurement there variables in making these panels.
a) the outside of panels are not straight have large curve from front to back (looking upward door) which has a radius of 17 feet.
b) the inside 90 degree return is straight and does not follow the outside curve.
c) the flat on the bottom of the door has a variable length along the door.
As a back-up, I'm also making some drawings of the door bottoms so to send to "Chevys of the 40's" to see if they have anything that is near to the required shapes.
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