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Old 03-26-2017, 09:07 AM
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fiberglass curing problem

hi all, I have been doing body work for 35 years and did a lot of fiberglass repairs . this is one time I have never seen fiberglass resin act like this. it hardened on the outside and not on the inside. I am working on a set of running boards for a van . these running boards have a brown coating on the inside that when you sand it its looks like wood power. I have never seen this before on running boards, but why this is curing on the outside and not the inside has me stumped. anyone ever run into this problem before.

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Old 03-26-2017, 10:57 AM
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I don't do a great deal of fiberglass now but started working with it 33 years ago building new boats. What you describe honestly sounds like an application error or faulty product. Both can happen to any of us. I suggest using the same batch of materials to make a small test elsewhere to see if it works right on another attempt. That would indicate which of the two is most likely to be the cause.

Were your layers all done with one mixture or did you mix more batches as you went along?

Did you open any new containers during the operation?

How old are the products being used?

What was the weather like when the repair was made?

Were any distractions present at the time?

As I said, I don't do this a lot. Others here know all the ins and outs of fiberglass. As far as the wood-like coating... I ran into some thick brown primer-filler called zchrome recently, kinda fits the description. I can see it being used to smooth part backsides on nice running boards to help them last longer. That stuff made me sick when I sanded it though. Crazy.

Anyhow, I hope you find your answer. Unfortunately it sounds as though you have a messy redo on your hands. Good luck with it.
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Old 03-26-2017, 11:57 AM
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sounds like your catalyst has gone bad.. have had that issue.. some fresh cat and try a area..

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Old 03-26-2017, 05:49 PM
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FWIW I have catalyst that is over 20 years old and is still good. I just used it 2 days ago to repair a 50 year old fan shroud
I keep it in a refrigerator
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Old 03-26-2017, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fat tire View Post
FWIW I have catalyst that is over 20 years old and is still good. I just used it 2 days ago to repair a 50 year old fan shroud
I keep it in a refrigerator
You lucked out! There is no way, no way I am going to gamble on a few dollars for some new MEKP. If you look at the bottom of the tube there is a date code, I have found it very important to have fresh hardener, saw it a lot as a paint rep.

Even for bondo, why not? It's cheap, why not.

I remember spraying polyester primer once on a motorcycle fender......no cure, geeez, had to scrap and wipe it off and get new hardener.

Brian
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Old 03-26-2017, 07:19 PM
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I filled two 16 ounce pepsi bottles at that time from a 5 gallon bucket along with maybe 5 yards of 1 oz. mat and 2-3 yards of cloth. I am now down to about 12 oz. of catalyst
as I said I keep it in the refrigerator
no expiration date on my bottle LOL
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:28 PM
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re

thanks guys for the help. cleaned everything off not going for a third time. used old supply the first time .new stuff the second. using panel bond this time seems to be working will know in the a/m. thanks for the suggestions and help , I agree with some of you bad material. have a good night thankyou.
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Old 05-14-2017, 11:16 AM
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Fat Tire....you probably got that stuff before time started. LOL.

I learned the hard way about glues, epoxies, hardeners, paints and coating building big model airplanes. When you have 1-2000 hours building a nice scale model you simply can't cheap out on finishing. Scraping and sanding a non hardened coating on balsa and lite plywood already shaped for finishing is extremely tough. You only do it once in a lifetime.

When I'm done with this stuff I just toss it in the hazmat barrel. It's just not worth keeping it around.

Yeah, I keep some instant glue in the freezer but only for a month or so. It's just ten miles to the hobby shop so I figure a gallon of diesel fuel at $2.35 per gallon is cheap insurance for up to date material.
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