Filler in the corners of front and rear glass to fit trim - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2017, 09:20 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 326
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 16 Times in 11 Posts
Filler in the corners of front and rear glass to fit trim

Hi,

I'm restoring a 1968 Camaro. The way the way the front and rear trim work is that the trim sits in the window hole (on top of the glass) and is butted up against the A-pillar in the front and the quarter panel in the rear. And the goal is to get the trim to tightly fit up against the body with little to no gap. Sometimes, the gap is a little too much in the upper corners of the window opening where the trim makes the corner.

I've got the front and rear trim are fitting pretty good. I've got original trim and AMD quarters/roof. I did my filler work on the quarter/roof seam as well as the A-pillar/roof seam. In doing so, I also built up a little bit around the corners of the rear glass. And then I also built up a little on the upper couple inches of the A-pillar. With the filler, my gaps are perfect (good enough for me).

I was feeling a little uncomfortable about fixing those gaps with filler so I dug into one of the rear glass corners with a screwdriver to see how tough it was. It was quite difficult to dig into it and the filler has only been setting for a day. It seems like it would be strong enough to hold in that area. I used my disc grinder to remove the filler from half of that corner and found that it was less than 1/8 of an inch deep of filler (more like 3/32 max).

I suppose I could grind the filler off and build up those edges a little bit with welding and grind them flat.

Not sure if that work is necessary. I'm not going for a zero-filler project. I'm working within my metalworking capabilities which means I'm OK with using filler here and there. I just wasn't sure what is typical for these areas on restorations. I'm obviously using filler for the sail panel seam and that is a much larger area than these corners.

Thoughts?


Thanks,
Sal

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2017, 09:32 PM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 3,976
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,447
Thanked 5,246 Times in 3,091 Posts
What you described is OK by me. Keep it off the glass bed, thats all. What gap you see could be blamed on the molding so just do what you gotta do. If you needed fill all the way across or much thicker in the corners, that would indicate an issue.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2017, 03:46 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Austin, Minnesota
Age: 65
Posts: 135
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 31
Thanked 26 Times in 18 Posts
Filler is a bad idea on an edge that is UN protected, like doors, trunks, hoods, and the like. The areas that you describe are pretty much protected by the trim. Also, these areas don't have more than an 1/8 inch thickness of filler do they? I think you're good to go as what you describe is strictly a cosmetic issue.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2017, 07:18 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 59
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 104
Thanked 1,463 Times in 1,115 Posts
AS long as theres metal to hold the filler youll be alright. One reason is theres studs in there that hold the clips in and usually they get ground off to make repairs easier but usually the rust starts there and they rust out leaving a hole the hole gets bigger and bigger as the rust progresses. If theres metal there (not a rust hole stuffed with bondo), theres a special screw that can be used to replace the little stud or even better, a stud welder is what a pro would use to replace the studs, that hold the clips, that the molding is held on with. If theres no metal there and your just throwng bondo in a hole then THATS a bad idea and you shouldn't be working on it at all. Do it at least half way right or don't do it at all. That's my "updated" version of the old saying to go along more with the times. Have some respect for the car.
If you want perfect tight fitting gaps these should all be prefitted with the molding BEFORE any filler is applied.
Put about three layers of tape on the molding to protect it and snap it on all the way around the car. now put your filler in and sand with the moldings on. when its ready for primer take it all apart and do any filler work inside the lip you get perfect fitting molding every time. Hard to believe but Ive seen guys do a ton of work making patches and repairing in this area and never checked the fit of the molding until after its painted. What a mess, it has to be all done over again, its a shame.

Last edited by deadbodyman; 12-30-2017 at 07:26 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to deadbodyman For This Useful Post:
22george (12-31-2017)
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2017, 08:08 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 326
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 16 Times in 11 Posts
Great suggestion for doing my filler/sanding work with the trim in place!

Thanks,
Sal
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2017, 09:24 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 59
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 104
Thanked 1,463 Times in 1,115 Posts
Nothing wrong with using filler as long as its used "halfway" right. stuffing holes and rattlecan repairs are just a waste of time and effort. Heres why, the job always turns out unfinished and sold because the owner gave up so you loose money because things are taken apart, lost, destroyed, etc...So haven given up it gets sold for much less than it was bought for and good car turns into a parts car because of the cost of all the parts needed.
secondly when someone comes to buy it and sees all that unfinished work halfass work he knows its all going to need be taken back down and started over. The old owner would have been better off not touching the car at all. I see this ALL the time. Theres a lot of pros here ready to help do a job right or even halfway right so this doesn't happen. If I had a place like this when I was starting out Id be miles ahead of where I am so take advantage of the experience and help that's here and learn how to do it yourself and do them well. We discuss all aspects of repairs and theres info here that can help everyone from first time to seasoned vets especially the tricks we use to make things work. I know I've learned a lot here and I've been doing this all my life.

Last edited by deadbodyman; 12-30-2017 at 09:41 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to deadbodyman For This Useful Post:
22george (12-31-2017), John long (12-30-2017)
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2017, 02:53 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Boise, Idaho
Age: 60
Posts: 16,158
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6,324
Thanked 6,888 Times in 4,386 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssanto View Post
Great suggestion for doing my filler/sanding work with the trim in place!

Thanks,
Sal
The importance of trail fitting parts is HUGE. Here is a "Basics of Basics" on the subject. https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/pane...-479097-3.html


Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2017, 06:47 PM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
life is a temporary assignment
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 10,996
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2,343
Thanked 1,529 Times in 1,013 Posts
Just had to redo the front and back lip on a 68 fire-bird..











Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00066.JPG
Views:	1834
Size:	129.3 KB
ID:	396346   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00065.JPG
Views:	152
Size:	128.7 KB
ID:	396354   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00072.JPG
Views:	149
Size:	135.0 KB
ID:	396362   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00081.JPG
Views:	150
Size:	132.9 KB
ID:	396370   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00089.JPG
Views:	152
Size:	140.8 KB
ID:	396378  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00090.JPG
Views:	155
Size:	138.0 KB
ID:	396386  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to NEW INTERIORS For This Useful Post:
123pugsy (12-31-2017)
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2017, 08:01 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 59
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 104
Thanked 1,463 Times in 1,115 Posts
Now THATS a proper repair.
Looks like the dash was rotted out too.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to deadbodyman For This Useful Post:
NEW INTERIORS (12-31-2017)
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2017, 12:54 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Boise, Idaho
Age: 60
Posts: 16,158
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6,324
Thanked 6,888 Times in 4,386 Posts
OMG Randy, does that repair bring back memories for me. My shop was right across the street from a glass shop. I did those repairs all the time!

I am talking about every day of the year I had an "old" Chevy (this was the eighties and the cars were a whole 10 years old or so LOL) in the shop getting a repair like you are doing there.

Wish I would have had a shrinker stretcher back then! I use to plannish that lower section on the patch to make it curve like that. Just a few years later I got a shrinker stretcher and that changed the world for me.

Good work there Randy!

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to MARTINSR For This Useful Post:
NEW INTERIORS (12-31-2017)
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2017, 03:51 PM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
life is a temporary assignment
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 10,996
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2,343
Thanked 1,529 Times in 1,013 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Now THATS a proper repair.
Looks like the dash was rotted out too.
You have no idea How bad it was.. Did two quarters, upper and lower back tray,around front and back glass,one rocker,and the whole tail pan,Four floor pans and more.. I might post a build thread on this car.. Did a smooth fire wall, smooth inter fenders also.. Saved another one.. The pictures I posted on what are you working on to day is where I am as of now.. I can do a build thread but I would have to fast forward it...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
installing front and rear glass Nick Ciani Body - Exterior 10 04-02-2015 10:54 AM
Flush fit rear glass idea? papawfalcon Body - Exterior 1 12-23-2014 10:05 PM
front and rear window trim 68 Camaro Lperzy Body - Exterior 2 03-17-2010 10:23 PM
Rear glass won't fit americanLT1 Body - Exterior 6 07-04-2009 11:13 PM
1985 Monte Carlo Windshield trim and rear windshied trim removal ChrisMiddleron Body - Exterior 3 01-14-2005 07:20 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.