Fixing up the scratch built rat cab - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2017, 05:17 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 7,213
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 5
Thanked 197 Times in 175 Posts
Fixing up the scratch built rat cab

I'm at a crossroads. This thing has been kicking around for years now with nothing done to it. Built the cab itself over a couple years but mostly done in 2009. Then it had to be channeled, then it had to have a cheap frame because I wanted a roller. It was never right, never like I envisioned it, and it has sat

Now, I am going to either scrap the cab and just buy a '27 roadster body OR. I will probably find a way to make this presentable. It's not perfect but I'm thinking about ways to make it better. Either way, I'm going to drop it on a Speedway frame and bolt it together so that I can have something to drive. I have a decent enough job now that I can afford to do that..

What I am thinking of doing is cutting the body off at the bottom where the channel is now. I built the channel into it so that there is actually a "second bottom" there since that is where the cab mounts would be and floor would mount to. So I could chop off what is below and it would not matter.. I put those ugly rocker panels in so that the door would not open to a wall on the bottom. Essentially those would go bye bye.. But should I still channel it more?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ratrod 1.jpg
Views:	145
Size:	64.9 KB
ID:	389674  

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2017, 06:19 PM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,068
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,605
Thanked 5,439 Times in 3,200 Posts
Rig up a seat and steering wheel, sit in it and you be the judge. I think your scratch cab is cool.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2017, 06:59 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 7,213
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 5
Thanked 197 Times in 175 Posts
I've done that in the past, and it 'sits' ok with the 3" channel ( seat mocked on frame rails ). The belt line, has always seemed tall but I don't know if it is just me... When I built this, I took the measurements of a length of a T bucket body ( 47.5" ) and then a couple reference measurements from a Ford Ranger and a Toyota Hilux and this is what I ended up with. The length of the cowl is 16" which just seemed like a good number and the whole cab is 48 1/4"x 48" wide
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2017, 08:25 PM
rip-tide's Avatar
Magazines have “ISSUES”
 

Last journal entry: Looks good
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 936
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 17
Thanked 323 Times in 234 Posts
Maybe this can give you some ideas as to how to modify what you have.

The proportions are off, the general shape seem ok. Whatever you do, don't fool or, talk yourself into liking something you have a feeling is not correct. Finishing off a project that says no to the builder will be a failure to that builder in the end.


The radius of the cowl is to strong. Could chop the bottom, take out some of the height. Raise the roof that will open up the windshield and windows, lowering the belt line.

Then again that's my vision, and does not count really.


Anyway posting this picture of a bare bones cab as a reference.

Greg
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0012.JPG
Views:	439
Size:	39.7 KB
ID:	389706  

Last edited by rip-tide; 11-23-2017 at 08:38 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2017, 08:47 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 7,213
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 5
Thanked 197 Times in 175 Posts
I've got a plan to mask the cowl issue, by making a second reveal of the cowl ( Like a T bucket cowl ) up to the windshield ... The firewall contour was made by a sharpie on a string, held in the center of a sheet of steel. Once the cowl was wrapped ( it's all hand formed ). The 'wall' below the window is the cut scrap from the firewall. That's something that has always bothered me but just what I could do at the time.

What is an approx measurement of the bottom of the cab to the top of window openings?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2017, 07:08 AM
AirwolfPJ's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 176
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 224
Thanked 44 Times in 32 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rip-tide View Post
Maybe this can give you some ideas as to how to modify what you have.

The proportions are off, the general shape seem ok. Whatever you do, don't fool or, talk yourself into liking something you have a feeling is not correct. Finishing off a project that says no to the builder will be a failure to that builder in the end.


The radius of the cowl is to strong. Could chop the bottom, take out some of the height. Raise the roof that will open up the windshield and windows, lowering the belt line.

Then again that's my vision, and does not count really.


Anyway posting this picture of a bare bones cab as a reference.

Greg
Truer words were never spoken.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2017, 07:11 AM
AirwolfPJ's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 176
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 224
Thanked 44 Times in 32 Posts
Can't think of how many times over the years what I envisioned in my head didn't look right in reality when it was made. Still have those moments lol.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2017, 07:40 AM
123pugsy's Avatar
Purists Hate Me
 
Last wiki edit: Metal shaping
Last journal entry: SEAM SEALER
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Markham,ON
Age: 57
Posts: 4,104
Wiki Edits: 29

Thanks: 8,324
Thanked 3,795 Times in 2,171 Posts
Sorry to say, but I would scrap the cab.
First attempts rarely work out. It's very difficult to get something like that to look nice.

I feel the lack of taper in the cowl makes it look too "straight".
If you could rework the cowl, it would make a world of difference, along with cutting some off the bottom as you mentioned already.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to 123pugsy For This Useful Post:
boothboy (11-24-2017)
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2017, 08:07 AM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Ford axle ratio codes
Last journal entry: Rear Suspension
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Prattsville
Posts: 7,213
Wiki Edits: 31

Thanks: 5
Thanked 197 Times in 175 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post

I feel the lack of taper in the cowl makes it look too "straight".
If you could rework the cowl, it would make a world of difference, along with cutting some off the bottom as you mentioned already.
That's what I have an idea to do. Add taper to the cowl since there is room to do so. Cardboard template to match the curve needed and then trace it to steel and cut it out. It will create a void in there that I will have to cut a hole into the backside from the inside to get primer in, but it would be invisible with the dash in place. Have a couple ideas to do the same thing, one involves a plywood buck screwed to the cowl for shaping ( removed when done shaping )
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to matt167 For This Useful Post:
123pugsy (11-24-2017)
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2017, 07:45 PM
Bamamav's Avatar
I bleed FORD blue!
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Berry Al
Posts: 102
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 39 Times in 29 Posts
I think what's killing it is the cowl....it's too rounded from side to side, and it's too flat on top. If the cowl had a little downhill slope from the windsheild forward, and you shortened the side drop off radius to more of a rounded corner than looking like a barrel welded on top for a cowl it would improve it. As to the under door "rockers", they do look a lot like a 40's Dodge truck cab, you could loose most or all of them to give a better height to the cab, as is, it looks too tall and thick under the greenhouse.

Just my 2 cents, probably not worth half of that.....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2017, 04:44 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Norfolk UK
Posts: 151
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 35 Times in 29 Posts
Got to admit that cab just looks to square, saying that I would not scrap it. I would put a picture of your cab and one of rip-tides next to each other. Then draw some subtle changes on your cab picture to make it look right using some of the good info already posted in this thread. One thing I would add is the tapered A post.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2017, 06:58 AM
ntfday's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Springfield, Mo
Age: 76
Posts: 719
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 347
Thanked 325 Times in 260 Posts
To these tired old eyes it reminds me of a late 19th, early 20th century choo-choo.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2017, 09:47 AM
123pugsy's Avatar
Purists Hate Me
 
Last wiki edit: Metal shaping
Last journal entry: SEAM SEALER
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Markham,ON
Age: 57
Posts: 4,104
Wiki Edits: 29

Thanks: 8,324
Thanked 3,795 Times in 2,171 Posts
Here's a tip I read (Metalman Sweden) and used on my tranny tunnel.

Make two templates for the shapes you want, join them with all thread and roll them across the sheet and mark the cuts. Very simple.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3073 (Medium).jpg
Views:	52
Size:	77.5 KB
ID:	389818   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3074 (Medium).jpg
Views:	38
Size:	84.7 KB
ID:	389826  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2017, 12:12 PM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,068
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,605
Thanked 5,439 Times in 3,200 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntfday View Post
To these tired old eyes it reminds me of a late 19th, early 20th century choo-choo.
It does remind me of a train, too. Might make a good cab for the engine of an amusement park kiddie train. Not trying to be a smartmouth, it could be altered and used, cut up to reuse the metal on version 2.0, or brightly painted and donated to a playground, or scrapped. I believe doing some sketches might help determine a sensible course of action.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2017, 03:34 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 53
Posts: 17,685
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 274
Thanked 3,215 Times in 2,696 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntfday View Post
To these tired old eyes it reminds me of a late 19th, early 20th century choo-choo.
My first thought on seeing the overly crowned curve of the cowl myself. Square bottom to the front windshield gives the same feel.

If you look at any old '20-30's car or truck cab, like the one posted....there are NEVER any truly square or flat sections, and rarely any truly square openings, everything has at least some small curve......otherwise designers know it ends up looking like a box.

If a framing square can check anything other than basic layout points, you need to start over with a new panel.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Designing my own scratch built Rat Rod, need guidance on where to start JerryMopar Hotrodding Basics 201 01-25-2015 07:48 PM
The Scratch Built Hotrod retwelder Hotrodding Basics 10 10-18-2011 05:05 PM
Scratch built Cab on Ford Ranger frame? matt167 Hotrodding Basics 6 05-26-2011 08:54 AM
Fixing a booboo scratch wretched ratchet Body - Exterior 4 03-19-2011 01:22 PM
Who has built their own frame from scratch? Riot Racing General Rodding Tech 14 04-05-2007 08:58 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.