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Old 09-23-2017, 04:59 PM
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Ford 302 won't start!

Hi guys,been pulling my hair out over this!!
I've a 302 that was running until it broke a rocker stud and bent 2 push rods.
I purchased a full set of stronger rocker studs and push rods but it now won't start,it's got spark at the plugs,fuel and the timing hasn't been touched and appears correct?
It's right on the point of starting but I then get spitting back through the carb and some real loud backfiring!!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Regards Scott.

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Old 09-23-2017, 05:29 PM
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You absolutely sure the timing chain hasnt jumped a tooth? That could explain the bent and broken parts from the piston hitting the valves, and now it wont run and spitting back because irs out of time.

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Old 09-23-2017, 06:03 PM
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You've a valid point there,I guess the only option is to take the timing cover off to check?
All the valve train is moving ok?I've been told that the timing could be 180 degrees out even if the no1 pistons at the top with the distributor lined up?
Thanks for your help
Regards Scott
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Old 09-23-2017, 06:20 PM
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Just been thinking,would slightly shorter rocker studs make a difference?
I was told they're fine because there is room on the thread when they're adjusted?
Just a thought,thanks again.
Scott.
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Old 09-24-2017, 03:19 AM
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Hydraulic flat tappet Cam ? How did you adjust the valves ? If you have a 302 that does not have adjustable rocker arms and you installed a Cam with higher than stock lift you will have the issues you describe. To start you would use this to determine clearance https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-9000/overview/ then you can get the correct thickness of these to get the correct clearance https://www.summitracing.com/search/...%20Arm%20Shims
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Old 09-24-2017, 05:48 AM
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Hi guys,it's a crane cam power max hydraulic,fitted by the same engine shop that did the screw in rocker stud conversion? Trouble is he's since retired and moved away!!
I did the new rocker stud adjustment as in a ford rebuild book which was pretty much the same as YouTube videos I watched? With each piston at the top firing and valves closed.
Have I done it wrong?
Thing is it snapped the rocker on no.6 piston and still ran,it wasn't until I pulled a rocker cover off that I
Found out it had broke... Damn thing still ran when broke yet fitting new studs it won't!!!
Regards Scott.
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Old 09-24-2017, 07:07 AM
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302 ford

my '71 302 ford (engine) gets a torqued rocker arm. i did TDC and if i recall, they are torqued to 20 ft/lb. and u walk away.. done. but without knowing the engine year u just may need to adj like others do. so much of a turn after zero lash. and for kicks when the timing dots match (noon/6) put the dizzy pointing at #1
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottyboy1 View Post
Hi guys,it's a crane cam power max hydraulic,fitted by the same engine shop that did the screw in rocker stud conversion? Trouble is he's since retired and moved away!!
I did the new rocker stud adjustment as in a ford rebuild book which was pretty much the same as YouTube videos I watched? With each piston at the top firing and valves closed.
Have I done it wrong?
Thing is it snapped the rocker on no.6 piston and still ran,it wasn't until I pulled a rocker cover off that I
Found out it had broke... Damn thing still ran when broke yet fitting new studs it won't!!!
Regards Scott.
If you converted to adjustable rockers back off the preload using the same sequence where you just barely can move the pushrod between your thumb and figure,then try to start it.Then let me know if it starts.
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill View Post
my '71 302 ford (engine) gets a torqued rocker arm. i did TDC and if i recall, they are torqued to 20 ft/lb. and u walk away.. done. but without knowing the engine year u just may need to adj like others do. so much of a turn after zero lash. and for kicks when the timing dots match (noon/6) put the dizzy pointing at #1
Problem not for this engine as Jeff has pointed out this engine has been converted to screw in studies which are adjusted like a Chevy not the Ford instruction for the set-stop and torque the nut. Also this may use a different length push rod from stock Ford and I suspect the stud length is critical so use those of the length that were there by the builder.

Bogie
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Old 09-24-2017, 12:35 PM
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Ok guys,just pulled the timing cover with no.1 cylinder at tdc and distributor at no.1 and the timing marks on the crank and cam are bang on,the most amount of deflection in the timing chain is 1/4" either side,tight one side,slack the other and the same rotating it the other way so the timing checks out ok? Or have I missed something?
The engine is a '70 302, 2v the only mods being the cam,tubular headers,edelbrock inlet with a 600cfm Holley.
It's got fuel and spark? In theory it should run shouldn't it?
Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 09-24-2017, 12:50 PM
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Sorry guys,I replied before I saw your posts,maybe the rocker studs are the problem? Could they be operating wrong due to the length difference?
I'll try loosening them off like you guys say and get back to you!
Thanks again,Scott.
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottyboy1 View Post
Sorry guys,I replied before I saw your posts,maybe the rocker studs are the problem? Could they be operating wrong due to the length difference?
I'll try loosening them off like you guys say and get back to you!
Thanks again,Scott.
Post a picture of your rocker arms.
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Old 09-25-2017, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottyboy1 View Post
Ok guys,just pulled the timing cover with no.1 cylinder at tdc and distributor at no.1 and the timing marks on the crank and cam are bang on,the most amount of deflection in the timing chain is 1/4" either side,tight one side,slack the other and the same rotating it the other way so the timing checks out ok? Or have I missed something?
The engine is a '70 302, 2v the only mods being the cam,tubular headers,edelbrock inlet with a 600cfm Holley.
It's got fuel and spark? In theory it should run shouldn't it?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Two things:
1) The crank moves through many 10s of degrees as it passes through TDC with almost unseeable movement. So this is just a general look at what's going on not a precision view which takes doing the drill with a degree wheel and positive stop.

2) Did you note the rotor position to the number 1 distributor terminal post. Many start up issues are from the distributor being off time.

3) This is a question as to whether you adjusted all the valves be screwing the studs down till they stopped rather than using the turning the push rod with thumb and fore-finger till the rotation stiffens then make the turn in adjustment?
I ask this because one cylinder's valve adjustment being wrong shouldn't prevent the other 7 from lighting up.

Bogie
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Old 09-25-2017, 12:47 AM
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Just as a check run a compression test and post the results.
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Old 09-25-2017, 12:51 AM
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Hi bogie,rotor arm bang on with terminal no.1,I've marked everything with a permanent marker so I know where it was when running and had my brother move the distributor whilst cranking and no joy!
I did the push rods just like you say,tightened down until the push rods start to tighten then a 1/4 turn,like videos I saw on YouTube.
I'll slacken them off when I get in from work as mentioned by Jeff also.
Thanks again guys from rainy England!! Scott.
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