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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2015, 07:40 AM
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[quote=seven up;3015410]
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightrhicks View Post
I purchased the distributor from advanced auto and bolted it onto the car. I did not mess with the points. Should I have adjusted them? Thanks for the question.

Just so you all know I will have the carb gasket in tomorrow and I will be putting it onto the car. Also when I took off the egr valve and cleaned the gunk off of it, it looks like it collapsed inward. This could be the problem, But I will not know until I get the new egr valve sometime next week. I had ordered the egr valve 2 weeks ago but it was too small and that is the one the car called for. I had to take the numbers off the old egr valve to find one that would fit. It all looked factory so I am not sure why this happened. The correct egr valve is ordered and in the mail soon. Thanks[/QUO


How did you solve the rough running ?
I would check the points for sure. A dwell meter is the best way but it also can be done with feeler gauges

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2015, 08:24 PM
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[quote=seven up;3015410]
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightrhicks View Post
I purchased the distributor from advanced auto and bolted it onto the car. I did not mess with the points. Should I have adjusted them? Thanks for the question.

Just so you all know I will have the carb gasket in tomorrow and I will be putting it onto the car. Also when I took off the egr valve and cleaned the gunk off of it, it looks like it collapsed inward. This could be the problem, But I will not know until I get the new egr valve sometime next week. I had ordered the egr valve 2 weeks ago but it was too small and that is the one the car called for. I had to take the numbers off the old egr valve to find one that would fit. It all looked factory so I am not sure why this happened. The correct egr valve is ordered and in the mail soon. Thanks[/QUO


How did you solve the rough running ?
I have not solved anything yet. The EGR valve needed to be replaced judging the way the old one looked, but the car still runs rough and dies. It will not idle. It was suggested by one of my friends that I go to electronic distributor, so I ordered one and I will have it tomorrow. I think that may be a good bet. Thanks for your interest
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:26 PM
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[quote=T-bucket23;3015530]
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Originally Posted by seven up View Post
I would check the points for sure. A dwell meter is the best way but it also can be done with feeler gauges
Thanks for the info. My friend also suggested that. I think it may be best if I went electronic. I ordered the electronic distributor and I should have it in tomorrow. The new EGR valve did not fix the problem but it did need to be replaced. Thanks for your interest. I will keep you updated on what happens.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2015, 09:52 PM
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wow.. so much to verify.. did you pickup a fuel pump vacuum tester gauge??

i run into this problem a LOT.. cold engine.. disconnect the fuel line at the carb... extend it with more fuel hose... disconnect the 12 volt wires at the coil.. so no spark can be created.. blow into the fuel hose you have extended on the line up from the fuel pump.. if you can blow bubbles in your fuel tank.. you have found part of your issue..

extend the hose into a clean clear 2 liter soda bottle.. use a remote starter button or have a friend crank the engine for 15 seconds while you watch the fuel pulses into the bottle.. you should have instant pulses.. full pulses each one the same size as the previous.. close to a pint of fuel in 15 seconds.

i have had bubbles come up indicating holes in the fuel lines or hoses between the tank and the pump. i have had diminishing fuel pulses until it was just a drip while the engine was still cranking. that one had multiple issues. jack and stands had crushed the fuel lines.. a duplicate car had sediment in the fuel lines that allowed me to use my hand vacuum pump and create 23 inches of vacuum that slowly dropped to give me a tiny amount of fuel.. new speedometer cable core can be used like a plumbing snake with a pair of people and leather gloves using a variable speed drill to wind it thru the fuel lines. replacement is better.. but this will get them cleared out.

its ugly but its a starting point.. with more fuel hose.. install a fuel filter for a 1990 ford ranger in a loop of hose section directly before the fuel pump..
the loop allows you to stash the ranger filter out of the way..

perform the 15 second fuel flow cranking test several times.

get the fuel line hooked back up.. reconnect the ignition.. start the engine up.. with it idling. use your long nose pliers to squeeze the new fuel hose shut between the new filter and the pump inlet.. with your hand holding the pliers closed on that hose.. use your other hand to bring the engine RPMS up to 1500/2000 RPMS.. when the rpms start to drop as the fuel is used up in the pump and the float bowls.. release the pliers.. fuel will surge thru the fuel pump and the wide open needle and seat to flush any sediment out of the pump and lines.. do this 3 or 4 times.

why is your engine dying..

the sediment in the fuel pump reduces the pumping abilities by holding the check valves open part way.. this reduces the suction up from the tank. and the pumps ability to hold fuel pressure in the line to the carb.. when that pressure drops because its leaking back into the pump. the heat from the engine can boil the fuel in the line and the expanding vapor pushes backwards thru the pump and leans out your motor as the fuel level in the carb drops..

an engine that starts cold and then stalls within a few seconds and needs massive amounts of cranking and pumping the throttle to get it restarted is a sure sign of this issue. when the engine is shut off the expanding hot vapor can push the fuel all the way back to the tank.. allowing the engine to start on the fuel that was left in the bowl..

i worked a chevy truck that would do that.. i had a clear vinyl hose on the line to the carb.. hooked over the hood latch.. i cranked the engine and after 15 seconds of cranking finally got fuel in that clear hose.. but when i stopped cranking. it went back down the and all the way to the tank.. its about 18 bucks for the ranger filter .. 3 feet of hose and 4 clamps. you can always remove it later if it does not cure your issues and only be out 20 bucks. i have installed this on over 50 cars... along with magnets in the gas tank..
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Old 03-20-2015, 12:33 PM
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I have not solved anything yet. The EGR valve needed to be replaced judging the way the old one looked, but the car still runs rough and dies. It will not idle. It was suggested by one of my friends that I go to electronic distributor, so I ordered one and I will have it tomorrow. I think that may be a good bet. Thanks for your interest

Your Welcome

This might be the perfect opportunity to check the timing chain for slop(rocking the crankshaft and watching the rotor in the distributor for excessive "play").

If your stuck on the side of the road and need to re-gap the points in a distributor...a matchbook usually will do the trick as a makeshift gap tool...enough to get home.
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:39 PM
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"If your stuck on the side of the road and need to re-gap the points in a distributor...a matchbook usually will do the trick as a makeshift gap tool...enough to get home."

Wait...that's matchbook cover...just the cover of the matchbook
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2015, 05:09 AM
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. Had this problem with my Ford truck... turned out to be the electrical plug for the condenser mounted on the side of the ignition coil... plug was corroded... unplugged and plugged it two or three times and the problem went away... I assume the new points distributor has a condenser inside, so don't need that outside one... might need it back if going electronic distributor... a self-contained GM-type HEI distributor made to fit a Ford can cure all the numerous Ford/Duraspark ignition problems... gets rid of the Duraspark box, outside coil, outside condenser, and a bunch of wires and connectors... cleaner looking setup, as well...

. Don't know what carb. you have, but a vacuum leak at gasket under carb. can cause that problem... a smear of sealant on both sides of that gasket can help ensure a perfect seal...

. If your carb. has a power valve, a backfire can rupture the rubber diaphragm in it, and engine won't idle because power valve stays open adding too much fuel...
.
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