Frame Rust Clean Up - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2014, 06:32 AM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 37
Posts: 1,278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 600
Thanked 351 Times in 288 Posts
I have never tried any, but Shine uses "Star blast". I don't know if it makes less dust than the others, but it is also supposed to be silica free. Either way you should wear at the very least a N95 mask (I usually wear a half face paint mask with the charcoal filters) due to all the dust from the paint/rust being blasted off, (aside from possible lead, and who knows what else). You only get one set of lungs.........

Kelly

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2014, 08:46 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: motorcity
Posts: 261
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 29 Times in 24 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
Kelly, I lied. I don't think this is what I have out in the shop. I went and got some bags of fine sand from Home Depot tonight, but then after reading about filtration of sand--to do it right is expensive, and to do it any other way just scares me. So I'm going to go with something with low free silica like this. The price is still pretty cheap.

And if this is as low dust as they say then it will be nice. I have aluminum oxide in my blast cabinet and it gets to be so dusty in there I can't see what the hell I'm doing.

I use crushed glass and like it a lot, I get it from a New Age Blast Media distributor for $8 per 50# bag. Course is good for frames, med 40/70 is good for sheet metal, and fine 70/100 is like baby powder--- good for removing paint by layers. I blast at 90 PSI normally, and cut it to about 60 PSI on the flatter surfaces. But that is on tri5 chevys, the newer cars with thinner ga metal will require lower pressure.


Take note of the instructions from New Age on using crushed glass, they actually recommend using less material.


Tips On Blasting With Glass Abrasive:
•You do NOT want a lot of abrasive in the air stream. The grains collide with themselves, lose energy, and hit your surface with less impact.
•Your goal is to not be able to see the abrasive in the air stream. If you can see it, meter back, as you have too much abrasive going through your hose.
•Start by purging your line so it is abrasive free. Then slowly open the feed until you can see the abrasive in the air stream. Then slowly close the feed until you can no longer see the abrasive in the air stream. This is what you want.
•If you have too little abrasive in the air stream, you will likely hear a high pitched whistling sound. Start over and this time repeat the process slower so you can see when the abrasive is no longer visible in the air stream. Be Stingy! You will achieve better results with a lean supply.
•Move your nozzle faster than you normally would. Glass abrasive blasts very fast, very clean. You will be surprised how light and sharp it is, and how much feathering you get with it.
•Blasting hard mil scale will require using a finer grit size, as it cuts more like a knife than a hammer. This is why it is great for softer, elastomeric coatings that often bounce back heavier abrasives.
•Blast at a 90 or 100 psi, or less. Higher pressure will be counterproductive due to how light glass abrasive is. You will simply shatter the glass rather than allow it to work for you.
•You can use a finer size than you would normally use.
•Estimate 5 to 6 lbs per sq ft usage. So a 1,000 sq ft area would require 5,000 to 6,000 lbs of media.

Tried Crushed Glass Media - Sandblasting - Contractor Talk
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2014, 09:18 PM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 37
Posts: 1,278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 600
Thanked 351 Times in 288 Posts
Estimate 5 to 6 lbs per sq ft usage. So a 1,000 sq ft area would require 5,000 to 6,000 lbs of media

That's a LOT of material compared to regular media like blasting sand or coal slag. Can the glass be re-used? I just blasted a 66 Olds 442 completely (inside and out, all body panels, floor pans inside and out, frame, wheels, etc) EVERYTHING metal was blasted to bare with 1,000 pounds (20, 50lb bags) of Black Diamond, and would have used about the same amount of sand if I had used regular blasting sand. I re-used it once during the process, so roughly 2,000 pounds of sand or slag would have theoretically done it all. According to those figures a 16' long x 6' wide car (approximately 500 Sq ft figuring for all sides and panels with the frame)blasted completely would take around 3,000 lbs of glass material. Maybe I am figuring wrong? but it seems like that would be more expensive and not as productive?
20 x $6.00 = $120 for slag or sand VS 60 x $8.00 = $480 for glass

Also what is the MOH for the glass? Sand is usually inthe 7.5 range and black diamond is around 6.

I am not trying to argue or start anything, just not sure I am understanding the advantage of glass?

Kelly
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2014, 06:43 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: motorcity
Posts: 261
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 29 Times in 24 Posts
Kelly, your milage may vary-- LOL. I posted the contractor talk forum because I can't really say how far you can get with glass. I just blast welding areas, jams, firewall, occasional panel, etc. They claim less than 1% silica, 6 on the mohs scale, and no dust, but I will say just less dust. So it is cleaner. I guess anyone interested would just have to get a bag and try it. Thats what I did and I like it. I also like the idea of recycling glass bottles, but I do wonder when glass bottles will no longer be used.

A volumn user would certainly have to weigh one cost over the other, and I know they sell it by 2000# and 3000# pallets, so there may be discounts. If you call them they will fill your mail box full of reasons to use it, it convinced me to at least try it.

You hear a lot of questions and comments on the settings and proper way to blast, so its obvious that a lot of guys don't know, and I like the way they give an easy to understand way of adjustment, and don't push excessive usage.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to Chevymon For This Useful Post:
carolinacustoms (05-04-2014)
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2014, 09:04 PM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 37
Posts: 1,278
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 600
Thanked 351 Times in 288 Posts
You hear a lot of questions and comments on the settings and proper way to blast, so its obvious that a lot of guys don't know, and I like the way they give an easy to understand way of adjustment, and don't push excessive usage.

I agree and the way they have described the media flow adjustment, is the way I try to describe it to people. Most people who have problems with the tip clogging are either having a moisture problem, or they are flowing too much media. It will vary with different media, but generally speaking, I set the media valve at 1/4-3/8 from closed and adjust up from there if needed, but I never need to run mine over 1/2 open to get the wanted results and not waste media or clog nozzles.

Kelly
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to carolinacustoms For This Useful Post:
Chevymon (05-05-2014)

Tags
frame, rust removal

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What is the best way to clean rust off of an engine block coinbandit Engine 4 11-04-2008 05:44 PM
Rear window frame rust, windsheild rust cpratt Body - Exterior 5 09-18-2008 03:41 PM
How to clean Rust on my D0VE- A Heads classicgarage Engine 2 06-16-2008 06:24 PM
Best way to clean rust from chrome? FrankR Body - Exterior 10 07-08-2006 03:56 PM
What is the best way to clean rust off my '91 S-10 frame Track Body - Exterior 2 08-20-2003 12:26 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:33 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.