Yes, the brakes worked before the rebuild. The pedal was going closer and closer to the floor when I applied the brakes. When I tore everything down for inspection all 4 wheel cylinders were leaking, the shoes were worn, and the master cylinder was not leaking but was old so I decided to replace that while I was doing the job.
As far as no need to drive the car, I only get a mild lock up when I push the brakes on in the garage. The real trouble starts when you drive the car.
Did not see any scoring at all on the inside of the drums.
I am fortunate to have the factory service manual for this car and the front wheel bearing adjustment for this car is tighten spindle nut 20 to 25 foot pounds while rotating the wheel. Loosen the spindle nut 1/3 turn and with wheel spinning retorque spindle nut to 10 inch pounds.
The brakes are self adjusting and I have the hardware installed to the rear with the star wheel oriented to the rear exactly as the service manual shows in their photos. Have brake shoes adjusted as close to the drum as I can get it without touching.
You are saying there is no pressure in the system which sounds like a mechanical problem. Does that mean I should rule out replacing the master cylinder?
One thing I notice that happens now that did not happen before the rebuild is that sometimes when I put my foot on the brake pedal, the pedal will slip down quickly for about a half inch and then catch again. The pedal is still firm but it did not do that before. I thought that was weird but did not know what to make of it. I had an idea that may be a master cylinder problem. What do you think?
Thanks so much for your comments and questions.