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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2017, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
OK, One more question for you Puggs. You say you were self taught but how long ago was that? Your welding looks like you've been doing it for many years. Way past my Tig skills
About 30 years or so....geez, I'm getting old.
I don't weld much these days. Just on the car now.

Things like sharpening a tungsten don't mean too much. The theorists will say different but if your two pieces are together and they're strong, who cares.

For anyone wanting to learn TIG, get your hands on some scrap stainless steel sheet bits. This material fuses together with no filler rod which helps learning all that much easier.

How I learned the best was by tacking two strips together touching at the ends only with a nice 1/16 to 1/8" gap at the center. Take that and fill the whole thing with rod and you'll be learning right quick.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2017, 05:41 PM
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it should be fairly easy even without .023. There's no magic wand here. Just practice. Would have been better if you provided pics before you cleaned up your welds cause that's a part of it. If you're having trouble with mig it's not going to get any easier with tig. For mig you want short wire, .023-.030, set up right, and no more than two hot tacks per area til area cools.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2017, 04:39 AM
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it should be fairly easy even without .023. There's no magic wand here. Just practice. Would have been better if you provided pics before you cleaned up your welds cause that's a part of it. If you're having trouble with mig it's not going to get any easier with tig. For mig you want short wire, .023-.030, set up right, and no more than two hot tacks per area til area cools.


I know I definitely don't go slow enough and got areas too hot. It's hard to just do little tack in an area when u have a big gap and wanna get it filled!!


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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2017, 06:41 AM
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patch work quilt or new panel

here's a link to Cris Boggess very different Willys build. There used to be an all aluminum 40 Willys coupe one of his students built as a class project on the web but I couldn't find it. . The slide show has a lot of details, how he does things. When I was taking the class the guy in the stall next to me was chopping the top on a shoebox ford. every once in a while I would help him. He had a lot of pie cuts and fit problems before he finally decided to make an entirely new rear roof quarter to get it to look right.
and a link to the guy that built the all aluminum 40 willys
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2017, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
About 30 years or so....geez, I'm getting old.
I don't weld much these days. Just on the car now.

Things like sharpening a tungsten don't mean too much. The theorists will say different but if your two pieces are together and they're strong, who cares.

For anyone wanting to learn TIG, get your hands on some scrap stainless steel sheet bits. This material fuses together with no filler rod which helps learning all that much easier.

How I learned the best was by tacking two strips together touching at the ends only with a nice 1/16 to 1/8" gap at the center. Take that and fill the whole thing with rod and you'll be learning right quick.
That's helpful I was only permitted to Tig 1/2" thick steel pipe at the tec school, they were supplying the nuc plant with welders. I never did buy one.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:04 AM
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Heres some of the basic tools I use to grind and dress welds.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:41 AM
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Where do I get ur sanding discs and sand paper rolls? I currently have a bunch of black hawk abrasive discs that aren't rigid enough. When you go over an edge they dig in, get a tear in the edge of the disc, bounce around, and destruct shortly after that. The ones in your pics look like the ones from where I used to work. They were awesome.

Buying a few more die grinders would be smart of me to save changeover time. I hate changing tools so much.

Is that a carbide burr in your little grinder?


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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2017, 07:59 AM
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1st pic) last two, far right. 3" grinding stone and cutoff wheel on HF cutoff die grinder, 9.99 on sale I buy one every time they go on sale whether I need one or not ,you just cant have too many . it has an allen screw in the end to hold the attachment on. "gotta have" tools.
It has the 3M 3" grinding stone in it and its what I use to grind the weld to just slightly proud of the surface without touching the surrounding metal.

3rd pic) roloc grinding discs and pads on the angle grinder. These work best for grinding the last little bit of weld to the surface. they can also be trimmed down and are like new again PLUS they work even better as they get smaller and can fit inti tighter spots. another "gotta have" tool also these are from HF.

2nd pic) just shows a pistol grip grinder just to the right of the center of drawer. it has a 4 1/2" stone with the 5/8" center hole its handy but uses a lot more air and you can get by without it.

This is what I use to make it all shine, I like the brown ones, they are rougher, you don't to polish the metal you want the primer to stick. Getting it any smoother or shiner is just a waste of time. Leave something for the primer to stick to.

You said something about those flap wheels, they are a waste of money they are too expensive and wear out too fast plus most importantly they don't work worth a crap. You'll see, I've tried them.

Last edited by deadbodyman; 01-03-2017 at 08:07 AM.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2017, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
I know I definitely don't go slow enough and got areas too hot. It's hard to just do little tack in an area when u have a big gap and wanna get it filled!!


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This is one of the biggest mistakes when welding panels, going to fast. Put a weld or two a good distance apart and walk away! There are other things to do on the car right? The rest of the car isn't finished with this being the last thing, WALK AWAY.

At least with MIG welding, that is really what you need to do. With TIG or gas there are other ways to do things but with the MIG that is about it, don't weld too much heating it up. That is how you shrink panels you know, you heat and cool them, well that is exactly what you are doing welding, heating it and then it cools (DON'T EVER COOL THE WELD!) the metal around the weld and shrinks it causing "warpage."

Brian
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2017, 11:43 AM
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You said something about those flap wheels, they are a waste of money they are too expensive and wear out too fast plus most importantly they don't work worth a crap. You'll see, I've tried them.

Thanks a lot for the over view of your tools. Those Roloc discs are from HF? It looks like you have a couple different Siamese of the roloc arbors. Do you have a standard 3" arbor and maybe a 1"?

I do have to disagree with you on the flap discs. I think they're the only choice to grind. I don't have any experience with harbor freight flap discs, but the black hawk abrasive ones I get off eBay are great. They do a great job and last long enough. Still, they cost more than a box of grinding wheels. However, I have 3 scars on my fingers from 4 1/2" wheels blowing apart. One time when a little too much pressure was applied to a weld bead for a floor pan patch 1 blew apart and cut me to the bone on my left index finger.

The machine and fab shop I used to work at didn't even have grinding wheels. All they kept in their abrasive stock was flap discs. Those discs were AWESOME. I'd hate to know the price on them for the average joe though.


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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2017, 01:20 PM
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If you got some place like Fastenal to get your rolocs and flap wheels I have found those to be the good ones and they are reasonable if you buy the box of 50. I know lifetime supply for a lot of us but worth it.

The parts about having a good fit to your seams and taking your time to weld are the most important parts of the tips to me.

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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2017, 05:03 PM
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I'm late to the party. (as usual) But any metal will fuse without filler rod. Just some do it easier than others.
When grinding a welded seam on sheetmetal, I start with a 1/8"-3/16" thick cutoff wheel, and make it a point to grind the weld only, using the edge of the wheel. Then finish up with the rolocs.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:16 PM
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Thanks for the help fellas.


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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2017, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
I know I definitely don't go slow enough and got areas too hot. It's hard to just do little tack in an area when u have a big gap and wanna get it filled!!


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those are big parts of it. Taking your time is the most important thing to consider. If you set your gaps to where it's not an issue or an area where you have to turn down your settings to jump the gap, got it tacked in enough areas, it's just a matter of two hot tacks, skip to the other side, two hot tacks, skip back to other side away from first weld, two hot tacks, back to the other side, etc, etc. When you have gaps or areas that bother you, we have a tendency to want to address it now or all at once, not allowing the metal to cool.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2017, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Thanks a lot for the over view of your tools. Those Roloc discs are from HF? It looks like you have a couple different Siamese of the roloc arbors. Do you have a standard 3" arbor and maybe a 1"?

I do have to disagree with you on the flap discs. I think they're the only choice to grind. I don't have any experience with harbor freight flap discs, but the black hawk abrasive ones I get off eBay are great. They do a great job and last long enough. Still, they cost more than a box of grinding wheels. However, I have 3 scars on my fingers from 4 1/2" wheels blowing apart. One time when a little too much pressure was applied to a weld bead for a floor pan patch 1 blew apart and cut me to the bone on my left index finger.

The machine and fab shop I used to work at didn't even have grinding wheels. All they kept in their abrasive stock was flap discs. Those discs were AWESOME. I'd hate to know the price on them for the average joe though.


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I wont buy my abrasives at HF or the arbors just the die grinders I have some that are over 10 trs old. I've bought Norton flap wheels and a few Dewalts none of which lasted more than a few inches of grinding welds and are hard to grind down welds without touching and grinding the sheetmetal, for the simple fact they are so big. The stones on the other hand last for months and do a much faster and better job.You use the edge not the side(just like a bench grinder). As they wear out and get smaller you can still use them in tight spots that the 3" cant get at just throw it in a new 10.00 HF cut off die grinder (not the regular die grinder. My 3" stones are 3M, the roloc grinding discs are also 3M and the roloc fiber discs are 3M or Fandelli but any good quality abrasives, NEVER HF, they can come apart and hurt someone.
The 4 1/2 " stones and cutoff wheels are fine to use but the problem is usually they are used with way too much air pressure and as soon as they bind a little there trouble. I keep telling everyone to get a regulater on the end of your hose. You simply CANT run your tools at 150 psi or even 100 psi you need the least amount of air pressure that will make the tool work GET A REGULATOR on the hose end. Its the best 5-10.00 you'll ever spend. Heres what they look like. Don't get them at HF either they fall apart, get a good one. Brass Air Inline Regulator I tried these HF and the don't last, Not for shop use anyway
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