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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2017, 08:18 AM
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I'll be a better welder than my 5 year old daughter one day.

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2017, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
St3gamefarm, do u hammer and dolly each zapped tack weld, as needed, or do u get ur fit so good and keep ur heat so low that u don't dolly?


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No I don't, unless it's needed, and I can get behind it with a dolly.

Now with a Torch hammer and dolly is almost allways needed.
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:09 AM
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As to the flanged joint. I've had great success with using a doubler on the butt joint, rather than the flange joint. With a doubler of about 1 1/2" wide by the length of the joint. On the back side of the joint, and plug welded then weld the seam. it's way strong, it holds both panels perfectly flush, and allows you to have a gap of about 1/16" between the two panels, which allows you to weld all 3 pieces together, and have a very nearly flush weld, with very little grinding.
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2017, 11:52 AM
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Im glad you brought that up. The problem with a doubler or backing strip is your welding it in there and the top edge will be open enough to let water in and hold it there like a cup and rust out your work twice as fast. The advantage of a flared joint is there is no open edge on top, just on the bottom.
If you like using a backing strip make one out of copper and screw it on with drill screws. when your completely done welding just unscrew it and pull the backing strip off, it'll be a breeze to grind the back side of the welds too. The copper acts like a heat sink absorbing the heat along with the added strength and will give you almost warp free seams every time. That's how I weld roofs and hoods without any warpage.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2017, 08:23 PM
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Getting butt welded sheet metal joints smooth

Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Your welding skills have improved 100%, Henry. Now I think your ready try it with the gas on.
Next year we'll get your Tig down off the shelf and give that a go.

This really made me laugh. Hahaha

Well I have been tinkering all weekend cutting out the patch I did before, fitting, shrinking and stretching, english wheeling, hammering, planishing, and finally start welding and dressing today.


The top doesn't fit and match up. I just couldn't get it. I have zero experience with the wheel. This is my 1st actual piece I've tried fitting in anything. I rolled a couple pieces thru b4 just 2 c what it would do. This is my 1st real piece off it and my shrinker/stretcher. I'm going to have 2 cut the top out and make this a 2 piece patch. Hopefully in the future I'll be able 2 nail it with 1.







Here are the tools I used. I actually have some 3m green corps 36g disks and some really nice dressing wheels like the fandelli ones deadbodyman showed. They're from when I worked at the machine and fab shop. I only have a handle full though and I didn't realize what they were until now. I knew they were really nice and top of the line compared 2 the ebay sruff I've bought, but didn't know the brand. Anyway, I broke up out of the "special reserve" today.

By the way, here's what I'm gaining by doing all this. The deteoit speed fbody mini tubs really get shallow and fall in on themselves in the rear. They're much better than stock tubs, but if you want to push them and get 325+ tires in you're going to have rubbing on the tub I suspect. As you can see I've gained a couple inches in width in the rear of the tub, but the main gain is the vertical clearance on the inside edge of tire (not shown in this pic).





By the way, with all the talk of tool selection in this thread I thought I'd recommend a long neck/ long reach dewalt die grinder. DO NOT GET A HF version. The switches in them r total junk. I went theu 4 and finally returned it before deciding to just spend the $120 on ebay and get a new 1 without box for $120. The HF long neck electric grinder is 1 thing they sell that is bad. The dewalt 1 on the other hand is one of the best tools I own. I use it all the time. Has great power with 4.2A but it won't rip your ha d's off either. It gets up into tight spaces. I use it for curting, grinding, sanding, burring, etc. I recommend it 2 everyone. It's great for guys that don't have industrial air compressor too. No need 2 worry about compressor volume with this bad boy. So much less noise without the compressor kicking on all the time too when ur trying to grind stuff down.



I am MUCH more pleased with how this is turning out. I for the piece MUCH closer all the way around the patch and also have been doing 1 little tack at a time. There are some spots where the gap between parent metal and patch is as wide as 3/32". I am being patient there though, doing 1 or 2 little racks at a time, and slowly filling the gap. Last time I did not do that and filled it much more quickly. That all being said, I know I have room for improvement. Please, please, please offer any advice you can to help me do better yet on fitment, butt welding, etc. I don't think I'm going to redo this one at this point, but it'll help on the PS wheel tub I still have to do! Thanks guys.

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Last edited by Schroeder; 01-08-2017 at 08:35 PM.
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2017, 04:00 AM
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Make your patches bigger than the hole, overlapping. Screw them on and then take a scribe and mark your cut line.

Remove all material except about an 1/8".
Then use your red and green aircraft snips to follow your scribe line and it will be almost perfect.

Also, do not tack a patch on that has yet to be cut to size as what appears in the first pic.
If you need to, cut a chunk out if it doesn't fit well and make a small piece to fit in.
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2017, 04:37 AM
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Getting butt welded sheet metal joints smooth

This patch did start out much larger Than needed. It is large enough to fit into the hole I cut out, but because of the multiple and complex radii I was unable to get it to lay properly. Again, I'm going to cut it out and this patch will end up being 2 pieces. From now on I will follow your advice to not do it this way and make the 2 pieces before welding anything. I like the method you have laid out here to get he patch to fit. I'll remember it and try it on the next wheel tub. Thanks.

What red/green aircraft snips are you talking about? I have been doing all my trimming and cutting with an electric shear from harbor freight.


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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2017, 05:39 AM
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anytime you jump right in to the harder stuff your going to have trouble. I did straight patches (1/4 bottoms, fender bottoms, rockers and door bottoms) for a few years when I started out.

Theres no reason you cant make the whole tub is there? because you can make your tubs with straight metal.
Heres how I did mine.

Back in the olden days before HF and computers there wernt many ways for a guy to find out about shrinkers and stretchers so we did without. we got metal to bend by notching it. I did these before I bought my set but Im still using these tubs. You can use your shrinker but as you do, think about how us old guys struggled.
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2017, 09:02 AM
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deadbodyman, I absolutely thought about about using a flat curved piece of metal and wrapping it around a flat piece with a radius on top (sidewalk of the tub). The reason I did what I did was because I originally didn't plan on widening the tub. I originally planned on throwing 325s on the car. 1 root of many of the problems I keep running into is that my vision for the car keeps evolving as I see others' projects on the car. The internet keeps giving me too many ideas!! I already had the DSE tubs when I decided to get bigger tires in. Had I made a better fitting patch the first time I think it would have worked out well. I didn't make a good patch though and here we are.


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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2017, 06:06 PM
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These. You need a set of red and green.

http://www.wisstool.com/snips/compou...t-to-left.html
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2017, 07:17 PM
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Aren't those just regular tin snips??


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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2017, 11:49 PM
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Wiss snips come in a number of styles and kinds. the ones we use most of are the left hand cut and the right hand cut. There is a pair made for straight cuts but are not needed most of the time.

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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2017, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schroeder View Post
Aren't those just regular tin snips??


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Yes.

Your final cut for your patch, use these and just "nibble" the cut slowly and you will get an excellent fit.

The electric shear is good to rough away the extra material.

As I said, try to leave only an 1/8" - 1/4" material for hand snipping. It is easier to cut when a thin piece is only there.
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2017, 04:53 AM
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I've never liked tin snips because they leave jagged eyes and want to make a curved cut.

Does anyone use die grinders other ham harbor freight ones? I'm looking for a quality brand that doesn't charge an arm and a leg. I don't think I need a dotco. Is a desalt much better than a harbor freight central pneumatic? A dealer can be had for ~$50, but it's money wasted if it's gonna start leaking past the seals inside and lose power like the HF ones do.


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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2017, 05:20 AM
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You need some like this for your trimming. Watch youtube vids on their proper use and care and you will fund you use them regularly. Really can't do without them.


Sorry, I'm slow.
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