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Old 07-15-2020, 08:13 PM
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Headlight Fuse Again!

Lost my headlights again after I turned on the switch tonight. Switch is a Speedway that works when you pull it out. Lights stayed on for a few miles then gone. At home I pulled the light fuse which was blown. Before I replaced it I noticed I had no turn signal and brake light on the passenger side. Replaced the fuse and turn signal and brake light came back on. Any ideas?

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Old 07-16-2020, 07:00 AM
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Something in that circuit could be shorting to ground slowly. Maybe water in the tail light? Try putting a new fuse and getting everything exposed, then keep checking for warm spots before the fuse finally lets go.
I'm no expert, but I HATE wiring and diagnosis of electrical so I may go about doing things a little different. (Lazy!)
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Old 07-16-2020, 07:01 AM
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Good news/bad news. First, the headlight circuit should be independent of all other circuits. Seems that you have other loads on the headlight circuit causing the fuse to blow. Now you have a place to start looking for the problem. I would start by tracing out the headlight circuit and finding out what else is tapped off it, then correct it.
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Old 07-16-2020, 07:11 AM
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other wires

a few years ago I was having trouble with my headlights flickering. Then one night a friendly officer stopped me and said that my tail lights were flickering. I said thank you . you have probably found what was wrong with my headlights. I said I have gone thru my headlight wiring 3 times looking for problems and the real problem must be in the tail light wires. The wiring was routed along the floor inside and the rear seat cushion frame had worn thru the insulation. .
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Old 07-16-2020, 11:52 AM
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Just wondering if the headlight beams might be an issue. They are halogen bulbs I believe with LED turn signals built in the lens. Too much for the system to power? Rear taillights are LED. I have brake lights and turn signals after replacing the 20 amp headlight fuse.
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Old 07-16-2020, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hambone62 View Post
Just wondering if the headlight beams might be an issue. They are halogen bulbs I believe with LED turn signals built in the lens. Too much for the system to power? Rear taillights are LED. I have brake lights and turn signals after replacing the 20 amp headlight fuse.
Maybe. How long has it been together? If it did ok before, what has changed? Is this a new issue? All good questions to ask in the preliminary stages of diagnosis...
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Old 07-16-2020, 01:24 PM
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Car came with these lights. It has happened before so not a new issue. Thinking about trying some standard lenses and see what happens. They are cheap enough from Speedway. I would lose the turn signals in the lenses. Would have to arrange something for that instead..
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Old 07-16-2020, 03:21 PM
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Update. Started car in the driveway after replacing the 20 amp headlight fuse. I had brake lights and turn signals. Turned on the lights and the fuse blew. The rear running lights looked like they stayed lighted. Looked at wiring the best I could but did not find anything obvious.
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Old 07-16-2020, 04:33 PM
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I think Speedway sells two different switches, universal and GM style. Can you tell which one you have? Appears the problem is in the headlight circuit. If you can identify the wire going to the tail lights lift it off the switch, turn the headlights on and see if the fuse blows.



Brake lights and turn signal should not go thru the light switch. Tag light, tail lights and front park do.
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Old 07-16-2020, 04:57 PM
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Could I try a temporary ground wire to from the headlight to check if I have a bad ground? Then I could do up a more appropriate set up after. Also change out switch (universal Speedway) and go to incandescant bulb.
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Old 07-16-2020, 05:22 PM
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Police cars are equipped with 50 amp circuit breakers here in Chattanooga. Steve used one on the '53. Better that your headlights flicker with an over load than go away.

If you have a problem with your wiring forward of the firewall it should only affect you high beams or low beams. They are on different wires from the dimmer switch forward.

John
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Old 07-17-2020, 06:45 AM
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Headlights should be on their own circuit with nothing else. Running lights, taillights and turn signal flasher on another circuit. Also, a lot of times LEDs (especially CCP stuff) does not play well with other types of bulbs on the same circuit. I put new LED tail lamps on my trailer a couple of years ago and had all kinds of issues until I changed out all the marker lamps to LEDs. It looks better and takes less power but I had never run into that issue before.
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Old 07-17-2020, 11:21 AM
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aftermarket headlight switch is difficult to separate the headlights to their own circuit.
typical headlight circuit does not have a fuse. old oem had a points style overload built into the switch
the ezwire harness i bought had an auto-reset plug in breaker that makes the headlights blink
blinking lights are a lot better than no lights when driving on any road at night

start by separating you headlights from all other lights, then use a multimeter to check for continuity to ground, un-plug headlights from bulbs
your halogen headlights may just be too much draw for a 20 amp fuse
my truk has halogen headlights, if i turn on my brights the oem overload starts to blink after a few minutes, on low beam they do not blink
i will probably go with a high beam relay eventually, for now i never use high-beams
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Old 07-17-2020, 01:19 PM
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Went over some of the wiring this am and trying to check any grounds I could identify. Afterwards I took the the headlight beams out of their buckets and checked for any chaffed wires. What I found on the drivers side light was the wire connections going into the back of the light connection seemed to be all touching each other. The other beam did not look like this at all. I separated the wire connections and hooked up the battery. Headlights work now. Manufacturing defect? Who knows? Time will tell. Thanks to all who responded to my post!
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Old 07-17-2020, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hambone62 View Post
Went over some of the wiring this am and trying to check any grounds I could identify. Afterwards I took the the headlight beams out of their buckets and checked for any chaffed wires. What I found on the drivers side light was the wire connections going into the back of the light connection seemed to be all touching each other. The other beam did not look like this at all. I separated the wire connections and hooked up the battery. Headlights work now. Manufacturing defect? Who knows? Time will tell. Thanks to all who responded to my post!
Yay! Keep an eye on it. Now you know your car a little better too!
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