Help blending? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board -- Hot Rod Forum

Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
lost password?   |   register now

LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2018, 09:28 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 106
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Help blending?

Hi guys got a new problem here. In the past I was always able to spot paint single stage black in the middle of a panel then wet sand with 1000 grit and buff it out to look almost flawless blend with the naked eye. So I figured I could do the same with a light blue single stage color on another project.

Here's the details: the paint I am using was mixed a couple of years ago its an oil based enamel. I kept left over paint from the original paint job so I thought it would match. But it appears to be 1 or 2 stages off. It looks like a good match when you look at the freshly sprayed paint on top of the orginal. Only I need to wet sand it at the edges, buff them out to blend it in smoothly with the old paint. However when I wet sand the new and old paint it becomes obvious that the shade is off slightly. I have not buffed it out yet.
1. * I am thinking of shooting the spot again with blue and then reducing the paint by 50% at the blend area to help the old blue paint show through the new blue paint in other words blend it better....... Any thoughts or ideas??? am I headed in the right direction?

2. I can't believe this blue does not wet sand and buff blend since it came from the same can!!!! Any experience on why this is?

3. Any other ideas?

4. I have included a picture the blend area it will be about 5" behind the very top of the fender flare (between the strip and into the blue paint below). Ignore my finger it is pointing at the crack in the old paint....

Thanks guys when I originally painted this 7 years ago I thought boy spot painting should be easy with the original mix! I was way wrong what a nightmare!!!!

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN8903.jpg
Views:	75
Size:	37.9 KB
ID:	424185  

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2018, 10:07 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Laurel, De.
Posts: 437
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 219
Thanked 169 Times in 127 Posts
Buff the panel with some old school rubbing compound before you start. That will clean up any oxidation and brighten up the color and give the fade-in something to stick to. I'm sure you're fighting some fade and /or oxidation. Seven years is a long time and oil based/alkyd/synthetic enamels are not the most uv stable or colorfast paints. Typically when I do a fade in on the last coat I over reduce the paint and hit the edges to bring the blend out a little further, and I have a second gun ready with straight reducer and hit it a touch to melt it in. . If done nice it only needs a little polishing.

Last edited by Hipster_G; 05-07-2018 at 10:30 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2018, 10:31 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 106
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the info. I did not think of trying just straight reducer over the top of the blend.
- Do you always do this as a last step over the blend? If so do you just do a light misting coat?

- I would think it is very easy to cause a run doing this?

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2018, 11:05 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 106
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hi guys it just occurred to me in the past I have always used my (air brush gun) with the air compressor to blend in spots on the paint for the color black.
These spots always wet sanded and blended in nicely.

-However, on this latest project with the blue color I used a different tool to spray the paint. It was a preval sprayer from Oreilly. It looked easier to use for cleanup so I thought I would try it. However I don't believe the paint is thinned anywhere nearly as far as it needs to be to spray out of the (air brush gun I usually use).
-Here is a link to the Preval system its was only $6.00 Pretty slick but maybe not for blending?

-I am thinking my blend issue where the new blue and the old blue meet may be from the thicker paint sprayed by the Preval gun vs. the fine mist from the (air brush gun) Any thoughts???

-My new plan is to use the Air brush gun in the blend area as it will only spray paint that is highly reduced hopefully it will transition more smoothly with the different sprayer??????
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2018, 05:00 PM
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: N Ga.
Posts: 863
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 33
Thanked 90 Times in 79 Posts
Dude! It's a ScoutII how bad can it look? (just yankin' yer chain ) Blending, especially single stage is an art. And sometimes things just go haywire, and don't work out like they usually do.
That enamel needs to be cleaned up good with a good old fashioned rubbing compound like DX55, or similar.
It's quite aggressive, and will clean up the old paint by abrasion not chemical means.
Another thing, you can sand with 800-1000 in the blend area prior to paint, then use your normal procedure that works for you. Sounds like the blend edge isn't getting good adhesion. I've run into that on numerous times. I've also run into changing the color of a SS topcoat by sanding, or even by just buffing.
Whites tend to get yellow, Blues may either lighten, or darken, depending on how the colors seperated while it was wet when first sprayed. Reds tend to turn pinkish, or lighten up.
On a difficult blend, I've been known to ad just a touch of clear to my blend coat, Hard to describe exactly what it does, other that to reduce the pigment, but still give it some body, and use the slowest reducer to keep it wet, and allow it to get a good chemical bond. and dry spray it until you cant see it hit the surface, then stop, and walk away. Let it dry. You will have brought it to the ragged edge of running, or laying out slick. At that point, only time will tell.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Please select your insurance company (Optional)


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
blending turbo t Body - Exterior 5 03-28-2008 04:24 PM
blending 69imp Body - Exterior 5 10-26-2007 05:24 PM
Blending lazybones Body - Exterior 6 03-23-2007 05:19 PM
Blending New in to the Old. knowldgeisfatal Interior 2 05-27-2004 03:49 PM
Blending the c/c Wrencher Body - Exterior 12 11-20-2003 01:34 PM

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:53 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.