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Old 05-07-2018, 08:28 PM
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Help blending?

Hi guys got a new problem here. In the past I was always able to spot paint single stage black in the middle of a panel then wet sand with 1000 grit and buff it out to look almost flawless blend with the naked eye. So I figured I could do the same with a light blue single stage color on another project.

Here's the details: the paint I am using was mixed a couple of years ago its an oil based enamel. I kept left over paint from the original paint job so I thought it would match. But it appears to be 1 or 2 stages off. It looks like a good match when you look at the freshly sprayed paint on top of the orginal. Only I need to wet sand it at the edges, buff them out to blend it in smoothly with the old paint. However when I wet sand the new and old paint it becomes obvious that the shade is off slightly. I have not buffed it out yet.
1. * I am thinking of shooting the spot again with blue and then reducing the paint by 50% at the blend area to help the old blue paint show through the new blue paint in other words blend it better....... Any thoughts or ideas??? am I headed in the right direction?

2. I can't believe this blue does not wet sand and buff blend since it came from the same can!!!! Any experience on why this is?


3. Any other ideas?


4. I have included a picture the blend area it will be about 5" behind the very top of the fender flare (between the strip and into the blue paint below). Ignore my finger it is pointing at the crack in the old paint....


Thanks guys when I originally painted this 7 years ago I thought boy spot painting should be easy with the original mix! I was way wrong what a nightmare!!!!

Brandon
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:07 PM
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Buff the panel with some old school rubbing compound before you start. That will clean up any oxidation and brighten up the color and give the fade-in something to stick to. I'm sure you're fighting some fade and /or oxidation. Seven years is a long time and oil based/alkyd/synthetic enamels are not the most uv stable or colorfast paints. Typically when I do a fade in on the last coat I over reduce the paint and hit the edges to bring the blend out a little further, and I have a second gun ready with straight reducer and hit it a touch to melt it in. . If done nice it only needs a little polishing.

Last edited by Hipster_G; 05-07-2018 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:31 PM
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Thanks for the info. I did not think of trying just straight reducer over the top of the blend.
- Do you always do this as a last step over the blend? If so do you just do a light misting coat?

- I would think it is very easy to cause a run doing this?



Thanks!!
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Old 05-08-2018, 10:05 AM
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Hi guys it just occurred to me in the past I have always used my (air brush gun) with the air compressor to blend in spots on the paint for the color black.
These spots always wet sanded and blended in nicely.

-However, on this latest project with the blue color I used a different tool to spray the paint. It was a preval sprayer from Oreilly. It looked easier to use for cleanup so I thought I would try it. However I don't believe the paint is thinned anywhere nearly as far as it needs to be to spray out of the (air brush gun I usually use).
-Here is a link to the Preval system its was only $6.00 Pretty slick but maybe not for blending? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...m/0226/5299623

-I am thinking my blend issue where the new blue and the old blue meet may be from the thicker paint sprayed by the Preval gun vs. the fine mist from the (air brush gun) Any thoughts???

-My new plan is to use the Air brush gun in the blend area as it will only spray paint that is highly reduced hopefully it will transition more smoothly with the different sprayer??????
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Old 05-19-2018, 04:00 PM
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Dude! It's a ScoutII how bad can it look? (just yankin' yer chain ) Blending, especially single stage is an art. And sometimes things just go haywire, and don't work out like they usually do.
That enamel needs to be cleaned up good with a good old fashioned rubbing compound like DX55, or similar.
It's quite aggressive, and will clean up the old paint by abrasion not chemical means.
Another thing, you can sand with 800-1000 in the blend area prior to paint, then use your normal procedure that works for you. Sounds like the blend edge isn't getting good adhesion. I've run into that on numerous times. I've also run into changing the color of a SS topcoat by sanding, or even by just buffing.
Whites tend to get yellow, Blues may either lighten, or darken, depending on how the colors seperated while it was wet when first sprayed. Reds tend to turn pinkish, or lighten up.
On a difficult blend, I've been known to ad just a touch of clear to my blend coat, Hard to describe exactly what it does, other that to reduce the pigment, but still give it some body, and use the slowest reducer to keep it wet, and allow it to get a good chemical bond. and dry spray it until you cant see it hit the surface, then stop, and walk away. Let it dry. You will have brought it to the ragged edge of running, or laying out slick. At that point, only time will tell.
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