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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2016, 09:02 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Duplicolor primer? My bet is on that cheap crap being the problem. In a pinch, one weekend I bought some duplicolor wax and grease remover and it was the worst crap I ever used ,it caused more problems than if I hadn't used any at all. I threw the whole can away. Probably what you should do with the primer.
BTW, this is what happens when you spray a 2k paint over a 1k primer, solvents get trapped.

LOL, I read through that and glossed right over it! Good catch, that primer if not THE problem, it is certainly part of that "planets are aligned" we talk about.

Brian

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Old 05-28-2016, 10:10 AM
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never waste quality products over that junk . duplicolor primer IS the problem . you can not mix cheap 1k products with 2k products. even good lacquer will not perform over that junk. sorry for your pain but i would trash the duplicolor and start over .
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:41 AM
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Thanks guys I had also sprayed some SEM auto primer but it was 1k as well. I recently picked up some epoxy primer that I'll lay down first then spray some drier coats of my KBC and top that with either the USC01 or a epoxy clearcoat I picked up to try. That'll keep everything in the 2k range or the world
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Old 05-31-2016, 03:05 PM
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Okay says so here was going to be my next process let me know if I'm screwing something up
Sand plastic part with 320 grit to remove mold lines etc.
Clean with hot soapy water
let dry
Spray mist coat of black 2 part epoxy primer. Let flash for a couple minutes
2nd cover coat of epoxy primer
let dry overnight
sand primer with 600 grit
wash with hot soapy water
dry
3 coats of kandy base coat. allowing time for flash
apply 3 coats of clear wait for tack but not strings.

How long should I expect to see full hardness on the USC01. I know it's a loaded question but with such a small part I wouldn't think as long as a car.

I'll do another panel with the epoxy clear coat as well.
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Old 06-01-2016, 10:35 AM
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A lot of times the problem using two component paints that it was not stirred long enough. This will result in one area be hard in other soft. On quart kits I usually recommend stirring for hundred seconds.
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Old 06-01-2016, 11:10 AM
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That could certainly add to the issue. I had been putting the two parts into a small jello shot type cup, putting a lid on it and shaking the cup like it owes me money for a while.

On a side note I ran a test last night with two reel seats.
seat one was a seat I previously painted
seat two was the commercially avaialble painted seat that is hard as a rock.

I mixed the epoxy clearcoat and brushed it on various parts of both reel seats.
After 24 hours the reel seat I had painted and then put the extra epoxy clear coat on was harder but still able to leave a mark with my finger nail and i could pull the paint slightly.

The comercially painted seat that is hard as a rock was even freakin harder. The epoxy clear laid out nicely and I couldn't make a freakin mark on the epoxy until i got my paint can lid opener and forcefully scraped the test area.

Last night I sprayed a black epoxy primer over two test pieces after sanding with 220 grit sandpaper and cleaning the surface. I plan on painted them out tonight. 1 with kbc and usco1 clear coat and the other with kbc and the epoxy clearcoat. we'll see what happens.
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Old 06-01-2016, 02:45 PM
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If you PM me I will send you a little bit of ag 111 clear, it's really hard stuff
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Old 06-02-2016, 01:05 PM
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I've got some more test panels on the drying rack right now boys. Both are painted with an epoxy tinted primer that was left to dry for almost 24 hours. Instructions state to topcoat within 1-24 hours. I sanded them down with 600 grit and then sprayed 3 coats of kandy base coat and 3 coats of clear. 1 clear was the epoxy clear i am testing and the other is the ucs01 clear.

We'll see if the primer helps hardness.
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Old 06-03-2016, 07:42 AM
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That is really a strange problem. My experience with urethanes is they are super forgiving, almost impossible to screw up. And this is coming from the world's worst painter; use Harbor Freight guns, measure bye eye, pile on way too much paint at a time, use whatever rattle can stuff I can find on my old paint shelf for primer/color. Still get a great result most every time. I urethane clear just about everything including my wood carvings. My suggestion is the same as a couple above. Set the parts in the sun to cure. UV seems to be the key elixir to most modern miracle chemicals.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:12 AM
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The clear that I sent you dries by temperature and humidity. A day or two after you apply it will seem soft and you won't be too impressed. By the time the seventh day comes along you will be impressed. Spray your color and brush clear over it. Hopefully it'll cure your problem
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JUICEGOOSE View Post
I've got some more test panels on the drying rack right now boys. Both are painted with an epoxy tinted primer that was left to dry for almost 24 hours. Instructions state to topcoat within 1-24 hours. I sanded them down with 600 grit and then sprayed 3 coats of kandy base coat and 3 coats of clear. 1 clear was the epoxy clear i am testing and the other is the ucs01 clear.

We'll see if the primer helps hardness.
That is a "re-coat window" where you can paint over it without even sanding. You can wait longer and just scuff it as you did without a problem, even months, as long as you scuff it well, it's not an issue.

Brian
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