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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2019, 01:03 PM
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Further searching and I have come up with this modified version of a C10 hinge that looks close to what I can start with.
Probably a little simpler to replicate also.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2019, 09:43 AM
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I have decided to have one last attempt at working a hinge out from what I know by looking at others for sale.

What I did is take a copy of what I found on the internet and added it to my pic's folder, then resized it to about 1.2 times so the arm lengths are about what will work for my space.

I then printed at the larger size, cut out all the moving components and glued them to some old cardboard.
I needed two copies as cutting out destroyed over lap joints.

Once dry, I cut them out and took a 2nd copy of my pic and laid the cut pieces over the pic and pinned the centers using staples and thumb tacks.

I then took it out to my shop and held it in the rough location and took it thru its movement range and it seems to work pretty good.
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Old 06-23-2019, 12:46 PM
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Years ago when I was building the Willys I needed hood hinges that would go up a bit before hinging open. Every night I would set down with popsicle sticks and pins. Played with different configurations until they would do what was needed. Transferred the concept to aluminum, polished them, put them together with screws, nylocs and a nylon washer between. Far as I know they are still in use. Several copied my design too.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2019, 03:48 PM
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Yes, those hinges are a concept that can take time to get your head around.
Its been fun, but slower going than I had hoped.
I am going to make up a metal hinge soon and see if I have got it 100% right.
I hear you on the rear lift movement, I just don't need paint scapes every time I lift the hood.

What bolts rivets did you use for your hinge pivots?
I'm still trying to figure that out!!!
My buddy had suggested those furniture sleeve bolts, which has gotten me interested.

Thanks for your comments.
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Old 07-02-2019, 01:20 AM
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I've started roughing out my stainless steel metal components.
Things may slow down a bit now as I am trying to work out what method I will use for the pivot points, rivets or bolts.

I have ordered some sample Chicago nut/bolt combinations to see how they may work.
Part of the problem is the Chicago items require an 8mm diameter hole and since I've scaled the original hinges down in size 8mm is starting to not leave me much metal around the holes.

So that is why I say I have roughed out my metal with an extra width of material to see how things will fit and work.
It is early days so I am not locked in to any one solution just yet.

I should have a prototype mocked up soon in metal...
Fun all the same...
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Old 07-06-2019, 02:54 AM
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I have decided to hold off on moving forward with the hinges until I catch the rest of the hood up.
I plan to make a light sub frame to combine with the sheet metal for support as well as to have something solid to attach the hinges to.

I am assuming that I will need to wok out a way of being able to have minor adjustment where the hinges attach to be able to get things sitting right.

I am also in the market for a small front locking down device with a safety catch.
It needs to be quite small...
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Old 07-06-2019, 09:42 AM
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Early VW Beetle hood latches are pretty small and have been used for years by rodders, maybe that could do it?

Brian
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2019, 02:15 PM
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Thanks Brian, I will look into that.
I did find universal hot rod item but in part of the description it was called large, which did not sound promising.
A small from what I could tell was a different concept and comprised of a bear claw latch only...
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Old 07-07-2019, 08:12 AM
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Screw aluminum and even steel for now.

Start building using cardboard to get the basic movement down.

Then move onto plywood. You can get a sheet of 1/8" birch or other plywood easily enough and build a working hinge off of that. You can add gussets where needed for strength and "weld" it using wood glue.

With some cheap drill bits, a jig saw, some wood glue, and hardware you can have a working pro type which you can build cheap and modify easily.

Wood is more forgiving to paint also so you avoid scratching things from the hinge side anyway. If you use painters tape to hold rags in place you can tape down spots and avoid scratching while establishing the rough fit.

Once you have your prototype that you know works you can move onto building the thing yourself. Or hand your wooden contraption to someone who can cut the parts on a CNC or just prep the parts yourself then hand it off for them to lay down some sexy welds on stainless or aluminum if you don't have the equipment to do so.


I will hand off stainless and aluminum work due to the frequency I will use a TIG welder.

With steel I will fire up and torch most things making them look great.

But some material calls for different equipment. With something highly visible and bare I want some sexy looking welds staring back at me each time I lift that hood.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2019, 03:03 AM
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Well I got my Chicago nut/bolts in the mail.
It seems all but one pivot point will work on my downsized hinges.
The lowest pivot point in my past post will have issues as the bolt head will interfere during movement of the small fish plate gizmo.

I plan to relocate this pivot point further south and see what challenges it may present.
I now have some C10 original hinge dimensions which maybe helpful to me making such adjustments from a proportioning point of view.

In the meantime I have been progressing my paper template of the hood sheet metal to refine it to an exact size including gaps before having it cut out in metal.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-13-2019, 04:52 PM
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Not a lot to offer up right now, however I had determined since receiving mu Chicago bolt/nuts in the mail that head size was going to be a slight problem with one pivot point.
That is the bracket to lower arm pivot point.
I made an executive decision to relocate that hole position by a small amount as you will see in my attached pic, which seems to have solved the head clearance without affecting the movement wrong way that I can tell.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2019, 03:07 PM
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Pivot bolts - McMaster Carr search shoulder bolts. I used them on my clutch leakage for a hydraulic clutch.


You will need enough thickness on the brackets to minimize wear.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2019, 03:10 PM
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What if you used heim joints for the pivot points with rods. this way you could adjust each arm and they would look good.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2019, 05:50 PM
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Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions.
On a larger scale I would definitely consider heim joints.
I have purchased some of these Chicago bolts & nuts and will give them ago first up.

I will need to cut them to length as I will be using 2 different lengths according where they are used in my hinge.

Obviously a very neat and precise hole to bolt fit is important to keep the hinges working in trim, so to speak and not flop around.

In my case it turns out a 8mm diameter bolt is a great fit to a 5/16" diameter hole.
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:21 AM
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I should have the metal work piece cut out by the weekend and ready for shaping...
Sadly, I don't have access to rolls and if I did they would not be at my shop where my project is.
Nevertheless, I have my cardboard template cut out and ready to be used to make my flat sheet metal work piece.
I cut my cardboard material a little short and then used an extra strip to staple on and get the front and rear gaps just right.
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