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Old 06-11-2019, 06:53 PM
S10xGN's Avatar
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Hotrod Flatz Q...

Hi all,

I'm renewing/painting my pressure washer and using an old unused QT of TCPGlobal Hotrod Flatz Daytona Blue Pearl that is waaay past it's due date. It finally shook/stirred to the point where it looks like paint, I'm gonna shoot it tomorrow over some (also old) SPI epoxy that went on today. The TCP tech sheet says nothing about top-coating it with clear, but I'm not really a fan of "flat" paint. I've got some fairly new TCPG clear coat that I'd love to spray over the "Flatz", but there's no info on how.

Tech Sheet:
Quote:
MIXING
MIX ONLY WHEN READY TO SPRAY! Mix ratio is 4 parts
HRF color with 1 part KH211 or KH212 hardener. Mix only
enough material to apply (2) wet coats. Additional KR
Urethane Reducer should be added up to 1 pint per
gallon. VOC mixed at 4:1:1/2 will be <2.8 lb/gal.
VISCOSITY: Viscosity of the mixed product as supplied is
approximately 14-15 seconds in a #2 Zahn cup at 77
degree F.
POT LIFE: Pot life for the mixed components is
approximately 5 hours at 77 degrees F The pot life will
shorten at higher temperatures.
APPLICATION
Apply 1 wet coat of HRF color. Wait approximately 10-15
minutes for flash time, then follow with another wet coat.
FLUID TIP: 1.4mm at 10PSI at the aircap for HVLP guns.
40-45 PSI at the gun for conventional spray guns.
DRY TIME
Dust-Free 20-30 Minutes
Hard Dry Overnight
Full Cure 7 days
Force Dry Flash-off time 15 minutes
My plan is to wait an hour after the blue flashes (air temp will be ~ 90) , then shoot the clear. I've done this TCPG clear before over rattle can stuff and it does fine. Any pros/cons to this?

Russ

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2019, 07:30 AM
S10xGN's Avatar
Gotta love a turbo!
 

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Well, it came out so nice I didn't want to do the clear.

Lots of strangeness on this little job though. First I mixed my SPI epoxy (A looked OK, B had turned goldish-brown), let it induce for 2 hrs, went to set up my gun and no air. Blown start capacitor, $75 and a 3 hr delay. Shot the epoxy which went on perfectly and cured hard overnight. Sanded nibs, mixed the blue 4:1:1 and shot it. Went on perfect and cured quicker than the tech sheet showed, I was able to reassemble it a couple hrs later.

For a small project (this time) using old, but quality paint worked out. I reckon the blue (unopened) was from 2007-ish and the epoxy was also that old but I've used it in small batches over time. I'd have never tried this on something that was larger or needed possible matching later on...

Russ
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