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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2018, 09:24 AM
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Are fender braces present? Ones that connect the headlight mount to frame.

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Old 05-26-2018, 09:27 AM
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My order of march on one of those things is to get the chassis straight.. Then set the body in place and getting it plumb square and level.. then the fenders grille shell and hood go on to see that we have alignment of those.. the spreader bar is the last thing I worry about. Most likely when assembling the body you will find you may have to elongate some bolt holes, install some shims and otherwise tinker with the fit of the parts.

Part of the drill in building these cars..

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Old 05-26-2018, 09:40 AM
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Everything was installed using 1/4" self tappers... seems pretty cheap to me. Would installing nutzerts work in your guys opinions?

Frame is boxed so no way to use a nut/bolt.

and again, the difference in frame height currently is 1/4 inch as measured from the ground to the frame rail with the car sitting on the ground. I dont see this as a significant issue, it needs to be fixed but you put my fat *** in the drivers seat and it will likely be a 1/2" the other way....

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Old 05-26-2018, 10:00 AM
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Here is hopefully a practical plan of attack. I believe when you were explaining the ride height difference, some of us got the idea the frame is bent.

With vehicle supported as shown on stands under the straight sections in the middle of the frame rails...

Using square tubing or lumber, something straight that won't sag, put this "stick" underneath the rails so it sticks out the sides and use a jack to hold it there. Do this just ahead of the B pillar.

Sit a locking tape measure on the stick on one side, up against the rocker's face. Pull tape up to the top rear corner of the door opening. Lock tape measure. Take it to the other side and compare heights. Place shims as needed under body mounting bolts to correct difference. (Loosen all of them first. Start near the stick and gently pry the body up to insert shims)

This will loosely confirm that the body is not tilted to one side in relation to the frame. Report what happens.
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Old 05-26-2018, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70-K5 View Post
Everything was installed using 1/4" self tappers... seems pretty cheap to me. Would installing nutzerts work in your guys opinions?

Frame is boxed so no way to use a nut/bolt.

and again, the difference in frame height currently is 1/4 inch as measured from the ground to the frame rail with the car sitting on the ground. I dont see this as a significant issue, it needs to be fixed but you put my fat *** in the drivers seat and it will likely be a 1/2" the other way....

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The only one of these I have fitted the body on was a real steel 33. But it was on an aftermarket chassis. Rivnuts on top of the frame rail allowed bolts to be used.

In a nutshell, it really seems to me like the car was painted without being fitted, in whch case you'll need to disregard the shiny paint. You can't fix fiberglass body fit and care about that paint. If some of it survives, fine.
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Old 05-26-2018, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Here is hopefully a practical plan of attack. I believe when you were explaining the ride height difference, some of us got the idea the frame is bent.

With vehicle supported as shown on stands under the straight sections in the middle of the frame rails...

Using square tubing or lumber, something straight that won't sag, put this "stick" underneath the rails so it sticks out the sides and use a jack to hold it there. Do this just ahead of the B pillar.

Sit a locking tape measure on the stick on one side, up against the rocker's face. Pull tape up to the top rear corner of the door opening. Lock tape measure. Take it to the other side and compare heights. Place shims as needed under body mounting bolts to correct difference. (Loosen all of them first. Start near the stick and gently pry the body up to insert shims)

This will loosely confirm that the body is not tilted to one side in relation to the frame. Report what happens.
Thought I should add that you don't need mount bolts in place nor do you need actual shims, to determine that the top of door opening - to - bottom of frame rail distance is consistent side -to - side. You can use anything as temporary spacers. If the floor is tilted when roof and frame are both level, its OK you can compensate. Rooftop to rails is the primary critical dimension in my opinion. Next would be cowl and trunk opening.
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Old 05-26-2018, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 70-K5 View Post
This is my first adventure into 32's and I am in love, but wish I was starting with a car that wasn't painted so I could work on the body fit and mechanical without scratching paint.
Drive the doors off now, fix it later. Enjoy it for a while, fenderless.

Keep the love going.
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Old 05-26-2018, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by studeelover View Post
Drive the doors off now, fix it later. Enjoy it for a while, fenderless.

Keep the love going.
I support this approach! If you know its less than perfect, you get to drive it less like a museum piece. If you could improve the look and fit with some shims or slots here and there to improve it, cool. I do have to wonder if there is some interference between body and frame not letting it sit all the way down. But lowering expectations in order to continue enjoying the ride is something I think everyone can relate to on some level. Ride on.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2018, 12:31 PM
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I tend to agree with idj on this. First determine what's up with the frame by supporting it on jack stands in the center section. making sure that the stands are ded level with each other. Then determine if there is any twist in the frame by measuring at the frame horns on the four corners. left and right should be at least very close, (within 1/4" or less). I suspect that during the boxing of the rails there could have been some warpage, if not done in a jig, and properly stress relieved. If all that checks out, then go for suspension, after that, align the body, then grille shell and hood, and finally fenders, running boards.
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Old 06-09-2018, 08:26 AM
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What size tire are you running on the front? What axle width do you have? Rear coilover loading can change the front ride height. The steel 32 full fendered car can be assembled by installing the front splash apron first. This will locate the grille shell. Then the hood can be located next. The body will be located by fitting it to the rear of the hood panels. The hood fit can be very time consuming. Once the body is located where hood gaps are what you want, the rear fenders are bolted in place. Then running boards can be bolted in place. Front fenders, fender braces, and headlight bar will have to be fit at the same time as they basically bolt in as an assembly. The glass body will be similar. The glass body can vary from side to side, so be prepared. The fender braces can make it difficult to get your front fender placement where it needs to be. These may have to be reshaped and hole placement for spreader bar changed. Some of the guys just make their own, rather than use the aftermarket ones. I would guess that fender brace shape and placement is your problem area, and possibly too large of a front tire. Keep us posted on progress.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2018, 08:34 AM
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Car has 195/70r14 up front. I'm not sure on the axel width, are there different options?

The plan today is to run the rear fenders but omit the front fenders and running boards, Milner style. It looks pretty good and a little more hot rod than street rod.

I appreciate the thoughts and direction since one day I might return it to a full fender car.

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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2018, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70-K5 View Post
Car has 195/70r14 up front. I'm not sure on the axel width, are there different options?

The plan today is to run the rear fenders but omit the front fenders and running boards, Milner style. It looks pretty good and a little more hot rod than street rod.

I appreciate the thoughts and direction since one day I might return it to a full fender car.

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Would you "bob" the rear fenders Milner style, or use the full fender?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2018, 11:51 AM
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Everything's been through paint, it will stay full rear fender... I'd get a second set and Bob them but to remove the rear fenders means removi g ths upholstered trunk, I dont want to go too far down te slippery slope of dissassembly...

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Old 06-11-2018, 01:22 PM
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A weekend full of fun... finished my brakes and got it back on the ground. The previous adjustments and coilover alterations fixed the frame leveling issues.

I like it more without the fenders so they'll stay on the shelf along with the bumpers. The rear fenders will get some flaps to cover the edge where the running board attaches, as soon as I find the right material

The exhaust looks like caca, that is next on the list with a tune up for the motor.

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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2018, 07:01 PM
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Looks like more fun than a barrel of monkeys to me!
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