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Old 04-04-2016, 11:52 AM
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How deep to scuff a good paint job?

I'm reprinting my 77 Malibu and their where a few areas that I took to bare metal to do body work but the rest of the paint is in really good condition. Since I only have blocks sanding the whole thing to bare feels impossible, although I would like to have. How deep would I go to reprint over the good paint, and would I use primer there or just sealer?

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Old 04-04-2016, 12:52 PM
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What type of paint are you using?
Have you block sanded the reworked areas?
Anything taken down to bare metal will need to be primed and block sanded to eliminate the blend line back to the original paint.
600 grit minimum but we need to know what your paint will be to give a good answer.
Mark
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:14 PM
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I'm using an epoxy primer and a base coat both from Eastwood, their both still in shipping so I'd have to check on the website for the exact information again.
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:19 PM
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I would suggest getting yourself a good D/A. If the rest of the car is in good shape, with no dents or peeling paint, A D/A with a 3M soft pad and 800 grit paper will have the car just about ready for paint in an hour...
Don't know what your skill level is but be sure to work the bare metal areas to level them out with the original paint.
Mark
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:28 PM
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Hoping these photos will help you get a visual. Featheredging is very important in making repairs that don't show through. Sealer isn't enough over body filler. There has to be a primer-surfacer step and another round of block sanding for straightness and feathering with a DA sander to blend in the edges. When primer is applied, thats when all the pinholes show up... and the yellow stuff is body filler, the white stuff is metal glazing putty.









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Old 04-05-2016, 04:32 PM
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So is it taking down to 800 and just applying base coat, or down to 400 and putting down primer. I would think taking it to 400 and feather edging the worked areas in and then putting down primer would make more sense.
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerB View Post
So is it taking down to 800 and just applying base coat, or down to 400 and putting down primer. I would think taking it to 400 and feather edging the worked areas in and then putting down primer would make more sense.
It would make more sense if you formed sentences properly. If you are new to english or using a translator thats not a problem just let us know. But I can't even figure out what you're asking. Have you read the previous replies and do you understand them?
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:56 PM
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Tyler I'm kinda havin a bad day, sorry. I'd like to help but don't understand well enough.
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Old 04-05-2016, 07:54 PM
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I'm sorry, should I sand the good paint on the car with ~400 and apply primer and a base coat, or only sand with 800 like the previous guy said and just apply a base coat, because I assume I wouldn't apply primer after only using 800.
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:55 PM
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The specific info you're after can be found on TDS ( technical data sheets) at your paint manufacturer's website.

Before applying primer-surfacer, 180 is the popular grit for existing finishes and body filler. Bare steel is 80.

After applying primer-surfacer but before using primer-sealer, finish sand with 320.

If applying base coat color to sanded primer-surfacer directly without sealer, finish sand the primer with 600.

That's my system. Mark's advice is also valid but each of us has our own technique.

When asking questions about coatings and application, you'll get the best response if you clearly list the products in question. A pic of the project is also helpful to those whose assistance you're requesting.
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Old 04-06-2016, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TylerB View Post
So is it taking down to 800 and just applying base coat, or down to 400 and putting down primer. I would think taking it to 400 and feather edging the worked areas in and then putting down primer would make more sense.
I should have also asked if you are doing a complete color change. If not, and the original paint is still valid, doing your body work and getting those worked area's primed and blocked is the main concern.
Sanding the rest of the car with 800 is fine if you are just recoating it with the same color. Saves a lot of paint and time as it is not really necessary to prime everything unless you are having to block out a lot of waves and warbles.
Mark
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