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Old 04-03-2010, 07:28 PM
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How to replace??

Hi. Been working on my 37 Ford. Everything was going ok, untill I started to do those rear fender rust areas. I have a set of those replacement panels from EMS. They came 8" high. I thought that I could just cut back the 8", so I would have a straight line.. It didn't seem to work, so I cut it bach to where it just started to become good metal. Now it doesn't seem to look right again. Has anyone ever done these before?? I need to do this one, and the other side.. Thanks.. Al

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Old 04-06-2010, 06:44 AM
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Can you screw your patch panel in place then scribe the line?

check it-->

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Old 04-06-2010, 06:53 AM
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A, What I do is overlap the patch panel over the fender,position it to where it fits right then clamp it together with vice grips and I use drill screws on the outer edge of the patch to hold it all together...Use a marker like a sharpie to mark the outer edge of the patch panel,remove the patch and move that line 3/8 of an inch smaller (inward) so you'll have something to weld the patch to.cut the fender,then flange the edge of the fender and punch holes in the patch,leaving the screw holes in place so you can remove and replace the patch in the exact same spot as many times as it takes for a good fit..the patch should fit flush in the fender then plug weld the patch onto the fender.remove the screws and weld those holes up Or use panel weld glue instead of welding...I might be able to find some pics if you need them...You can find a flange/punch at HF for 40.00...Good link Milo

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Old 04-06-2010, 08:12 AM
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Flanging the metal is one way, I rather butt weld something like this if I can and on the 37 Ford there is a ton of clearance so it shouldn't be a problem.

Using the whole patch they give you is usually overkill. One reason it isn't a good idea is they aren't shaped properly, they are usually a flat piece of metal with a body line stamped into it. They need serious shaping to match the contour of the panel.

It's a hard call if using more or all of the patch is the best thing on YOUR project. If you post some photos it would help.

If you cut the rusted metal off until you have solid metal and then cut the patch to match that, it works the best in most cases. Though sometimes going up more you fine a better place like just below a body line or something can be a better place to make a splice.

On the flanging, I do that sometimes but on a patch on something like that butt welding is my usual choice. I trim away the metal I am going to replace then trim the patch to just a little above the missing metal. Clamp the patch in place then scribe a line using a sharp awl right on the line as close as I can to the actual size of the patch. Then cut the remaining metal off with offset tin snips for a perfect butt.

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Old 04-07-2010, 09:04 AM
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same here Old guy i worked with showed me to cut off the majority of what you are gonna remove of the bad, then lay you patch panel over and screw it to the body and then take your cut off wheel and cut both parts old panel and new panel at the same time and butt weld it flush as you go... the thickness of the grinding wheel leaves the perfect gap for welding, I like the really thin cutting disc I get from Car Quest. Lapping panels invites rust between the panels.
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Old 04-07-2010, 03:01 PM
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Good points...When using a flanged seam,both pieces must be epoxy primed before welding.

when gluing,you dont prime,just grind both mating surfaces...with glue you'll need a flange and rust wont be much to worry about ,its a water tight seam,

When welding a butt seam theres a much greater chance of warping a panel and burning big holes through the panels,it takes a lot experiance to get right.

Both types of joints should be undercoated (rustproofed)when finished
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