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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2018, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_padavano View Post
So, still no emergency brake...

Sorry, none of those are reasons not to have a functioning mechanical e-brake, just excuses to use after your hydraulic brakes go out and you run into something.
Have to agree. If the master goes up the line lock gizmo does nothing. The ending is going to be violent.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2018, 06:07 PM
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I live in a flat part of Michigan. I have not had a functioning parking break on any of my automatics. Manuals are a different story. Those get a mechanical and left in gear.

Cables rust, get crushed, or get hung up on things. Oh yeah they also freeze.

I just had this on a 00 beetle last summer. They put the cable along the underside of the belly. Came over a 6" speed hump and crushed the cable. When I went to release it the thing stuck. Went out back and cut the cables and later replaced them.

If the line was ran to just one of the front wheels or in a better manner to the rear then it would have not been a issue.

For short term parking a "line lock" works fine.

I do agree that a mechanical parking break is best. But you may have something like single stock exhaust and want to go duals which means you need to move everything around.

If you have a suspension that flexes then running a cable becomes difficult. A lock of some sort is used to hold caliper pressure using the flexible lines.

An alternative is to run a transmission out put shaft parking break. Which eliminates the need for long cables at the expense of ground clearance.



I put a mechanical in my sticks. But I don't use it much because I have had them stick when it is -10 out. They are a maintenance item. But as you can't see the cable in many cases it can be completely rusted or sitting in a area of water.
For things like a gas station I use a line lock. If parking in a flat spot in a parking lot I will put it in netural then put it a gear just in case. At the house I use a 5/8 board to hold the thing then put it in gear.
The only time I use the mechanical is if I am on a grade and know it is going to be more then 10 minutes or on a steep grade. In that case I also turn the wheels at the curve or barrier. I can fix a fender if need be.





The original can use a line lock at there discression. A mechanical is best. A mechanical stop should be used for long term. Carry around a piece of wood if need be. But in the long run install a mechanical.


A emergency break has not been used since the 80's. ABS or pumping does a better job then just locking the things up.

Newer cars have an electronic parking break which does nothing but flash a light at you until slow or completely stopped. Maybe limit the engine speed on some models.

A hydraulic parking break using it's own master and calipers works good for drifting or holding the front wheels to slide the back end around an obstical.
But your better off with a mechanical in many cases.
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Old 09-05-2018, 07:20 AM
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Well, to explain, I just got this T-bucket with powerglide, no parking brake. Have had the hydraulic gizmo for ages...easy to plumb in. Not intending it to hold long-term, only for parking on daily drives..if on inclines, etc. Don't live in the mountains. The replies seem to suggest ok, but. Thanks for the posts.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2018, 08:27 PM
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Brake lock

We used both the electric solenoid type and lever type brake lock on our service trucks at the surface iron ore mine in Michigan. Reason being that some of the places we had to park to work on the equipment were too steep to hold a 2-1/2 to F-800 ford loaded with a welder etc., with the factory drive-line brake. A lot of the time we had to leave the truck running so we could warm up. Only problem we had was some guys (the welders) would park the truck back at the shop with the electric line-loc and when the brake drums cooled and shrunk, that would create so much pressure in the lines that the solenoid wasn't strong enough to open the valve. Had to slide under the truck to open a bleeder, to get it to release. We started installing the manual valve only line-loc.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2018, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnymike View Post
Well, to explain, I just got this T-bucket with powerglide, no parking brake. Have had the hydraulic gizmo for ages...easy to plumb in. Not intending it to hold long-term, only for parking on daily drives..if on inclines, etc. Don't live in the mountains. The replies seem to suggest ok, but. Thanks for the posts.
Just do it. It'll be fine for your intended use.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2018, 08:03 AM
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safety inspection rules

It depends on your inspector on modified vehicles

(3) The parking brake system shall be held in the applied position by energy other than fluid pressure, air pressure, or electric energy. The parking brake system shall not be capable of being released unless adequate energy is available to immediately reapply the parking brake with the required effectiveness
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2018, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
It depends on your inspector on modified vehicles

(3) The parking brake system shall be held in the applied position by energy other than fluid pressure, air pressure, or electric energy. The parking brake system shall not be capable of being released unless adequate energy is available to immediately reapply the parking brake with the required effectiveness
That's the way I understand WV regs to be also. They call it an emergency brake. My T-bucket is titles as a 1990 custom truck. It has to have E-brake, wipers, seat belts, fenders and bumpers. It gets regular inspection, not modified. Brought it to the state police post to have it looked at, and found out it had to have whatever would have to be standard safety equipment on any 1990 automobile.
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