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Old 09-24-2019, 10:05 AM
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Installing new body mounts

Hello guys I have a few questions here and I am doing this on my 96 chevy s10 and I saw the other day that one of my body cab mounts that the bottom bushing was so dry rotted that it just fell off with the rusted retainer as well and then I got to thinking I wonder how my other body mounts look as sure as enough they are all dry rotted and need replacing on all six.

There is two under the radiator core support and four for the cab and when I look up parts they mention about body positions 1 for the one mount and the other mounts say position 2 and 3. I do not know what positions are what as I have never messed with this before but seems simple enough to replace them.

I also noticed the two mounts on the radiator core support look the same as the two rear cab mounts and the front cab mounts look the same but different from the other four so am I assuming if I buy four of the same ones that look like the radiator core support ones and rear cab mounts that will replace all four of them and then if I buy two of the same that look like the front cab mounts then I will be good? Also I noticed the bolts which look like studs with nuts on them vs the other mounts that have regular bolts on them on my front radiator support mounts are really rusted and I am afraid of striping or breaking something and I don't have a torch but a propane torch though and I know to blast it with some pb blaster and let it sit for a while and hopefully I can get them loose.

Do I have to jack up the cab or anything while I change each mount at a time or can I just change one at a time by slipping out the old bushings and then pushing the new ones in? Also is it ok to put antiseize on the bolts when I install new ones or do I have to use locktite as I have read some people do and also what should I torque these bolts at?

I wish I could get a kit that has all the rubber bushings along with new bolts for all areas along with new retainers steel plates as mine have fallen off and are long gone. I have looked and all I can find is getting each piece separately except for the two front cab mounts that have the big mushroomed metal retainer on the bottom bushings vs the others that don't have them.The truck is stock height and all factory.

Thanks guys and hope anyone can help me with suggestions here.

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Old 09-24-2019, 11:58 PM
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Eric;

I have an 86 with 305, and had a 94, had the beds off, never the cab.

I would suggest join a S10 forum or group, I am sure someone there has gone through what you are.
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Old 09-25-2019, 05:20 AM
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I have a '75 GMC (full sized squarebody), and body mount kits are available from multiple vendors. I would be surprised if Energy Suspension or one of the other vendors does not sell a complete kit for your truck. You could probably also get a complete OEM set from Rock Auto.

Many replacements use polyurethene mounts because they hold up longer, but they can squeak and groan until they settle into place. Lubricating them ahead of time helps with that problem. I was able to replace mine by jacking up the truck body near each mount (2x4 under frame) and replacing them one at a time while parked in the driveway. The most common issue is a rusted bolt that won't come loose, or breaks when you try to remove the nut. On my truck it also took some innovative wrench angles to get to mounts for the radiator support.

Bruce
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Old 09-25-2019, 07:30 AM
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I have replaced them one at a time. You need to remove all the nuts leaving the bolts in place then jack up one corner. Pull out the old and install the new then go around that way. There is enough flex in the mounts to make this happen. A couple 4x4's nailed together will spread the load out. Leave the bolts in and replace them as you go keeping the nuts off until your finished. This will keep the cab located and avoid it "shifting" as your jacking up a corner.

I have also just dropped the column, shifter linkage, etc. Then lifted the cab up 4-5" with a engine hoist and straps under the body to slide in new bushings that way.

Your fenders and front clip do need to come off of course. Going to need to do it anyway to change out the front clip bushings. I have done this without removing the bed before. But that was because I was being lazy. You can pick the bed up with a cherry picker and slide it 6" back setting the thing back down on wood atop the frame to avoid potential scratches to the cab.

Generally your electrical will have enough play in it to lift the cab up 4" without pulling on things. But keep an eye on things while lifting so you don't rip any thing like a ground strap off.
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Old 09-25-2019, 08:57 AM
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So I want to make sure this is right. I have to loosen up all three mounts on one side to properly lift it up enough to pull the mounts out and replace one at a time. I will buy some 4x4's and cut to size so I can lift it up just enough and make sure I don't lift up any ground straps or brake lines etc so as not to break anything. I can't afford to replace all six at once so I am going to replace the two front cab mounts first as they are the worse and have lost the bottom retainer pieces but from what I see the other four mounts don't have the bottom retainer pieces and I can get a whole bushing set from energy suspension for less then a hundred bucks but I have to get an oem replacement set that comes with all new hardware for the two front cab mounts.

On the radiator mounts all I have to do is take off my front clip and grill and I have access to the top of the radiator mounts through the radiator core support so I don't think I will have to take off my fenders but I will see. Also how would you get access to the top of the nuts that sit on top of the two front cab mounts when I can't see any access panel inside the cab? On the rear I have my floor actually cut out in the cab corner area as when I had some new cab corners put on and welded and stuff I had them to cut a small spot out in the floor so I can have access to coat the inside of the cab corners with a rust preventive and also spray a lot of spray guard inside my rocker panels to help keep them from rusting etc. I have a fabricated piece that I lay back across to cover them up but I know that would give me access to the rear ones no problem.

I watched some videos to get an idea on how this can be done as I just hope I can get my bolts out with out stripping or breaking anything. I just wish I could get the energy suspension kit and some hardware separate without having to buy the bushings with the hardware but from what I could find at rock auto or anywhere else nobody has the hardware separate like the metal retainer pieces and the special kup ones that fit underneath the two front cab mounts and I wish at least I could get 6 new bolts that I would need especially for the radiator core support as they are really rusted and in my LMC catalog they have stuff for all the s10's except for my year which is not good.

Seems to be hard to get some things from what I can find and around here in Ohio looking in a junkyard to see if there would be any good s10 pieces that I could grab would be a waist of time as about any s10 I see within my year range are so rotted and scarce it pitiful. Thanks guys for the help and info and much appreciated and this will be a new learning experience that is for sure.
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Old 09-25-2019, 10:03 PM
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Look here, Truck Parts and Truck Accessories you can buy the complete kit, or by the part.
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Old 09-26-2019, 02:16 AM
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A liberal use of deep creep penetrating
oil the night before and a impact will help greatly. In most cases just wiggling the impact is enough to hold the bolt once it starts to spin. If need be you will need to pull up the carpet or get a socket on top.

I dont rely on junk kit hardware. I buy mine at ace or by the pound at the local farm store. Grade 8 stuff that will outlast the truck at the same price or cheaper then the kit prices.
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Old 09-26-2019, 08:33 AM
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I looked at that on my catalog but it does not list for the chevy s10 truck but only for the blazer but looking at the parts they look identical to my front cab mounts and the radiator ones as well and I think I can buy the retainer pieces I need separate but on the bolts part from a video I watched the bolts have a special end on them or something like that and at least on the radiator core support bolts they have threads all the way up the bolt and with a regular grade 8 bolt which I would love to use for everything the threads would not go up far enough and I don't know if I can get a proper length or not but maybe I can figure something out.

I will buy those pieces and worse case I would have to send them back but I think they will work and look the same as mine and I know GM is good for using the same parts on many different make of vehicles. I just hope I can get these old things off and hopefully they won't break. I will order my parts and then see how it goes and I will order the kit from energy suspension for the polyurethane mounts as they will last longer then the truck will and its way better and way less in price.

Thanks guys for all your help now I do have a question when I go to loosen one side of all three mounts so I can raise my cab up with a 4x4 or a couple of 2x4 nailed together do I have to loosen the other side some so as to not bend anything just by raising it a few inches or can I leave them alone? And also is it ok to use antiseize on the new bolts and what would I torque them too? I read somewhere at 44 ftlbs but I don't want to have them come loose on me and from some photos I have seen the oem replacement bolts that come in the oem kits have dried up red locktite on them so should I use that instead of antiseize?

Thanks again for the posts to everyone and much appreciated and will help me out a lot.You guys rock
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