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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2004, 08:36 PM
 
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Could anyone order me some John Deere blitz black?? I went to the John deere shop and they dont stock it so if i buy it i have to buy it in cases and thats too much. I tried deere.com but it just goes through my local dealer. so if anyone can get it i'll pay-pal ya!!

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2004, 02:01 PM
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should ask if they can get it from another store...

My place didn't have any but he checked inventory in his other stores and there was one gallon left. So I snagged it. now I Just need to pick it up
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2004, 06:29 PM
 
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Getzy3
How much do you need? They can order it in the case, but you DO NOT have to buy the whole thing. It is a stock item. And where do you live? Dont forget to get some rattle cans so you can do your doors jams. I just got finished shooting BB. Its tempermental, just read my earlier posts for all the directions and do's & dont's.

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Quote:
Originally posted by getzy3
Could anyone order me some John Deere blitz black?? I went to the John deere shop and they dont stock it so if i buy it i have to buy it in cases and thats too much. I tried deere.com but it just goes through my local dealer. so if anyone can get it i'll pay-pal ya!!
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2004, 05:55 AM
 
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So would it be a good idea to use this product when the weather is a bit cooler and more humid than recommended for standard paint, to slow the drying process and prevent striping?


How did you go about sanding out imperfections , like when the paint runs?
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2004, 11:42 PM
 
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357 ford

keep the gun even and steady. smooth back and forth.
dont sweep, which takes the gun further away from the surface. this paint was made to dry fast. practice on a old car hood. 1 tack coat then a full wet. wait 3 hrs then your 2nd, 3rd, etc. coat.
runs happen when being impatient and wanting to get it done and then you become careless with your strokes. ive done it too many times in the past. be patient.

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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 05:40 AM
 
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Re: 357 ford

Quote:
Originally posted by motoedge
keep the gun even and steady. smooth back and forth.
dont sweep, which takes the gun further away from the surface. this paint was made to dry fast. practice on a old car hood. 1 tack coat then a full wet. wait 3 hrs then your 2nd, 3rd, etc. coat.
runs happen when being impatient and wanting to get it done and then you become careless with your strokes. ive done it too many times in the past. be patient.

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I get that if I take my time it shouldn't run, but lets say it does, worse case scenario, would it be easily sanded out?

So I take it you didn't have any trouble with striping as previously mentioned with this product?
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:06 AM
 
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Most of this has already been covered.
If you get runs when you paint, I would say that you need more practice and striping would be the least of one's worries. If you put it on too thick, even before the point of running, the paint will shrivel up when the reducer evaporates and leave the paint wrinkled. You can't lay it on as thick as other paints because of this. Worst case, yes you can wetsand easily with 400 or 600 grit and reshoot.

It's $22 a gallon...practice on something first as mentioned previously.
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:32 AM
 
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Quote:
Most of this has already been covered.
If you get runs when you paint, I would say that you need more practice and striping would be the least of one's worries. If you put it on too thick, even before the point of running, the paint will shrivel up when the reducer evaporates and leave the paint wrinkled. You can't lay it on as thick as other paints because of this. Worst case, yes you can wetsand easily with 400 or 600 grit and reshoot.

It's $22 a gallon...practice on something first as mentioned previously.


I think what your tring to say is, the paint covers pretty good, so I wouldn't be trying to lay it on thick, being a beginner. I would like to think experience would assure no runs but given my past experience with body shops thats not always the case. Who knows? I will use it first on something less important, that does make sense. Thanks


Now about the striping, apparantly it is of concern, no one has been real clear on how to prevent it, one post mentioned it was nearly impossible it dried so fast, even with reducer, was that a unique experience? (I believe it was your post) Another person claimed to use a spray can on a panel with no striping, what lead to your problems with the paint? Would my suggestion of using the product in a cooler more humid climate, than recommended to slow the drying process sound reasonable?
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:38 AM
 
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I still struggle with the striping. For me, it's a something I may have to live with. I've never had this problem with chassis semi gloss black or flat black paint before. I'm just not ready to blame it on the JDBB. It may be my imagination but it seems that painting objects that are vertical have less striping that painting hroizontal ones...roofs verse quarters.
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:42 AM
 
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Fair enough, appreciate the reply.
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 11:12 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by jc55
I still struggle with the striping. For me, it's a something I may have to live with. I've never had this problem with chassis semi gloss black or flat black paint before. I'm just not ready to blame it on the JDBB. It may be my imagination but it seems that painting objects that are vertical have less striping that painting hroizontal ones...roofs verse quarters.
Could the reason be that when shooting horizontal surfaces, you dont hold the gun straight on, its at a angle, so the spray lines blend easier. Maybe try holding the gun at more of a angle when spraying the sides.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 01:06 PM
 
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Your stripping problem is caused by operator skill. This is the SAME concept as in metallic colors. You have a heavy area that area appears darker. Same goes with suede paint, the thicker areas will be shiner causing the surface to be stripped.

Holding the gun 90 degrees to the surface and keeping a nice 50%overlap is the key. Doors, quarters stuff like that is easier to maintain proper gun control. Holding it over a hood or roof is hard to control the gun thus causing your stripping problems...Eric
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 05:54 PM
 
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striping

It is user error. like the other guy said, 90 degree angle to the car. Steady back and forth, not too fast and not too slow. You need your tack coat to get a surface that the BB will accept. A tack coat meaning you can still see the old paint after your first tack run, ie: a super light coat. Wait 10-15 then your full wet.
Runs are from going too slow and being too close. And even being impatient and wanting to shoot the next coat under the 3 hour window that this paint needs. Runs are fixed AFTER the paint has fully dried. A light grit sand paper will fix it. Get a couple of rattle cans to fix goofs.
Practice on an old car before you try on your ride.

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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 06:01 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by xblast
I got a question. i bought JD BB 2 months ago and am gonna spray my rabbit soon. im not gonna use a hardener but can this be wetsanded after its done?

what about wax?

thanks, long time reader....first time poster
Rabbit?..cool I'm doing a 81 VW truck "Caddy" in BB. Hopefully in a month I'll have it done.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:37 PM
 
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xblast JDBB

Wetsanding is to get all the imperfections and orangepeel out of your paint so you gan buff it to a mirror shine.
JDBB is a tractor paint, flat black, no shine at all. Thats the purpose for using this stuff. JDBB is a shoot and go paint, no bling bling.

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EVERYBODY!!

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