sorry about my hippie clothes, but i was a teen during the 70's.
here i am cutting bolt holes in the carpet. i screwed some bolts into each hole so i could feel them and then took a sharp blade and cut around each one. came out pretty good. lemme say nothin cuts thru jute better than a pair of tin snips.
then i got the front and rear pieces in and have to hook up the shifter to get it into the garage, otherwise the neutral lock out wont let me start the car. yes the plug in connector has to be plugged in too. first you gots to do da limbo unda da steerin wheel bra!
then ya gotta dick around with the shifter cable to try and get it back into the slot in the shifter bracket and put the locking piece in on top of it. there was some carpet glue involved with the front piece. it is glued in now. the back piece needs to be glued in. i just was cutting the holes and it got dark, and i'm burnt! maybe tomorrow i'll get to the thing again and then put in the rest of the heater and glove box stuff.
i just found out too, that the shifter gets bolted directly to the steel hump. no carpet, no jute, not tar under it.
i saw it on the World Wide Web!!! thanks to the guys at www.nastyZ28.com
PLEASE NOTE!!! i cant imagine doing this job without the passenger's front seat removed! i had to use two hands alot of the time and it still took a while. there is only one screw holding on the speaker bracket and it is inside a peice of channel so it would be rough. when i did this i also had the console and the shifter out. i think it's mandatory as well to remove the glove box. all of this took time and just diving in doing this speaker will take a much longer time that what i had to do because i was already doing the carpet and had everything out, including the rear seats as well. during alot of this i had my head squarely underneath the dash so both of my arms could get up there and my feet where in the back seat area so i could work without doing contortions! the ducts came off the plenum easily and there were only two screws and a plastic "pop" rivet? thing holding it in. i also had to remove the radio. not just for finding the wiring code writen on the top of it but i think to get my arm up there better as well. good luck!
okay, so there i am running stereo wires. i decide to pull the stereo since i dont know which wire is which and i know it says what's what on the other side (top). so i have the wires hooked up that are going to the trunk and i look up there and think to myself... there really isnt that much crap up there under the dash speaker. and i think about the pics i saw at the nasty where they've redone them and stuck two 4" speakers in the stock speaker bracket. so i start undoing crap. after all i got the glove box out already cause i had to find where a vacuum line went. and i had the bigass piece out too so i just had to remove a couple ducts and i could get to the speaker. well it was just as easy as it sounds. here are pics of the heater plenum acuator taken thru the glove box hole, then one of the plastic plenum i had to remove and then the speaker in the dash and as it appeared as i cut it up and put some pioneer 4" speakers in it. all that's left to do is cover the thing with some black fabric. this sequence will be the vacuum connection, and the plenum and speaker from under the dash
doc wanted pics of where i drilled a hole to get the power wires from the trunk to the battery so here they are. they aren't really too exciting but anyway, case you are doing the same i think this is a slick way to go. i have a/c, so i couldn't find anywhere i could drill thru the firewall w/o hitting any of the a/c crap. in case you want to make this hole it is exactly 3 and 3/8 inches straight across to the inside from the right front seat bolt hole, from hole center to hole center. that will put you into the "knock out" in the floor pan. use a 7/8" uni-bit and shove it all the way thru. if you are off center alittle the knock out should self guide the bit to dead center. the hole will then be the perfect size to put any 1/2" electrical fitting into it. have fun.
to the upper right you can see the silver mc cable connector in the floor thru the hole. underneath you see the end of the frame rail with the body bushing. notice the hole at the bottom forward of the bushing. there is a matching hole directly above that one in the top of the frame rail. that is where i am going to run my wires. into the frame rail with a fi*****ape and pull them to right underneath the battery. edit: this didn't work because you cant get thru to the front without going straight thru the middle of the coil spring and the shock. so i came out right before them and followed the fuel line. IT WOULD HAVE BEEN BETTER to route the wires along the drivers side and go thru the firewall with the speedo cable!
the last pic is of the piece of Panduit plastic wire mold that i put in the hump. i removed the jute and the bubble wrap and added a square of bubble wrap on each side so it wont stick up above the padding with the carpet on. Peace Out rodders. time to go put the wires in.