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05-09-2005 09:11 PM Rat - Upholstery
Photo #1 I can now turn me "box" right side out. I run my finger firmly up into each corner of the box to straighten the material and insure that the "peak" of the corner is fully right side out.

Photo #2 shows the foam block being stuffed into the box. I take special care to make sure each corner of the foam is firmly pressed up into the "peak" of the corner. I go around all four corners at least twice to make sure the foam is nice and snug up in each corner.

Photo #3 I then place the particle board base inside the box. Note that I have rounded off the corners of the particle with my band saw so there are no sharp corners that might poke through the naugahyde over time.

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  [Entry #190]

05-09-2005 08:58 PM Rat - Upholstery
Photo #1 shows what our box looks like once the two top seams and four vertical side seams have been sewn.

Photo #2 I have put a cushion in our inside-out box so you can see a little better how the "box" is built.

Photo #3 Once the seams are sewn I cut off the staples and excess material.

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  [Entry #189]

05-09-2005 08:50 PM Rat - Upholstery
Photo #1 I then position the pieces so that the lines representing the top seam (the long seam that runs along the top edge on each side of the foam block) are aligned. (Remember, we are making our "box" inside out - so as we assemble and sew the seams and overlap will be exposed). I then staple the two pieces of material together along this top seam about 1/4 inch outside the line I have drawn to sew on. I use staples to do this just because I find them much easier to apply than pins. The staples are only there temporarily to keep the pieces aligned during the sewing process. Note also that the staples must not go beyond the ends of the top seam line. All we are sewing at this point is that top seam joining the cushion top and the cushion side.

Photo #2 is a shot of the first top seam being sewn. Note that the seam starts exactly at the intersection of the lines I have drawn to represent the top seam and the vertical side seam and ends exactly at the intersection of the top seam and the next vertical side seam. (the vertical side seams can also be pictured as the four corners of the box we are building.) Do NOT sew the material beyond this verticle side seam line.

Photo #3 Now comes the tricky part. Once the top seam has been sewn we have to bend our box around at a right angle so that the lines we drew earlier for the first of our four vertical side seams now line up with each other. This produces a square corner. Once I have the pieces lined up properly I staple the first vertical side seam. I then move on to the next corned of our "box" and do the same thing until all four corners are stapled in position for sewing. It should be pointed out that sewing these seams is also a bit tricky since you either have to start of finish the seam in that very tight corner you have formed to make the box. It's mostly a matter of taking your time and learning to run the machine at the right speed so you can guide the needle right up into that corner.

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  [Entry #188]

05-09-2005 08:15 PM Rat - Upholstery
Since the roadster body turned out a little better than I had anticipated, I decided the planned blanket thrown over old cushions just wasn't going to cut it for the seats. I therefore decided to do a very elementary upholstery job.

The foam for the seats and backs comes from some very old cushions which had become quite threadbare. Fortunately we had 6 matching cushions so I was able to salvage 6 blocks of foam each measuring 19" x 19" x 4" high.

I then ordered some marine grade naugahyde from Salrite and it was delivered a few days later. The naugahyde is treated for UV resistance, mildew resistance, and is rated for auto or marine usage. It is the same material and color that I used to make the tonneau cover for my '32 pickup. The cost was $10.95 a yard which was the least expensive UV material I could find on the net. It's not the greatest stuff to work with but quite adequate for my needs.

Photo # 1 shows a typical block of foam. I am using this one to make a seat back. I used two blocks, one on top of the other, to made the seat cushions.

Photo #2 I am making about the simplest seat coverings imaginable. A top and four sides sewn into the same boxy shape as the foam block. This "box" will be sewn inside out and then reversed and stuffed with the foam block. I begin by cutting one piece of material which is long enough to cover the front, top, and back of the foam block plus 2 more inches on each end to wrap around the bottom of the foam block and staple to a 3/4" particle board base which will be cut to the same size as the foam. I then cut two additional pieces to cover the two sides of the foam block. What you see in this photo is enough material to do one back cushion.

Photo #3 I then turn the naugahyde pieces over and mark on the back side where all the seams will be sewn. I also mark the seams on the "good" side of the material with a sharp edged piece of chalk. These lines will allow me to keep everything lined up and in place. There is only one tricky part to doing this layout. While the foam block is 19" long and 19" wide we don't actually want to sew the seams at 19". This would end up with a covering that is very loose and wrinkled. Instead, I sew the seams 1" short on each edge. This will give me a seat top which is 17" long and 17" into which I will compress the 19" x 19" piece of foam, hopefully providing a nice stretchy fit to the naugahyde.

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  [Entry #187]

05-08-2005 09:51 PM Rat - Oil Cooling
By mounting the radiator in the rear I can use the stock oil cooling system which routes through the radiator itself and then into a small axillary cooler. I had been hesitant to use this stock cooling system with a front mount radiator because of the potential maze of piping.

Photo #1 The axillary cooler is mounted on the cockpit side of the radiator and is attached to the radiator surround with simple brackets fabricated from 1/8" flat stock. It is very tight quarters so I could not get a very good picture of the cooler. This is a shot from below the rear housing looking up and toward the rear.

Photo #2 is a close up shot of the upper fitting on the radiator for the transmission cooler line.

Photo #3 shows the newly fabricated cooler lines to the transmission. I kept the stock nuts and used new 5/16 steel tube to match the stock lines on the C-6. The lines use flare fitting at each end.

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  [Entry #186]

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