Rain halted work on the garage extension to house the '49 Olds. Since the Olds is perched on blocks in the same area, the slippery red clay also halted work on the Olds. That forced me to get the guts to cut the lid out of the egg.
Photo 1: egg frame. The original plan was to do the trailer completely in steel. This frame shows the bias from my carpentry background -- you make a frame then put a skin on it. It's made from 3/8" re-bar but because I can't weld thin sheet metal into an egg shape, it's all scrap except the shape and the hinges, or at least the idea of those hinges. The fiberglass egg is slightly larger and with more curvature, so I could only use the steel lid frame to rough out the new lid shape.
Photo 2: layout of the lid. This was mostly by guess and by gosh and lots of eyeballing from various angles and finally just hoping it really was centered and symmetrical. The outline was penciled in, then masking tape was stretched roughly along the pencil lines (putting a little tension on the tape gave me straighter lines than sketching with the pencil). A permanent marker was used along the inside of the masking tape to give me a clean cutting line when the tape was pulled.
I intended to cut the lid using a utility knife. Yeah, right. And my next trick after that would be to demonstrate chopping a top using a fingernail file. Epoxy gets hard. That blade just scratched and skittered. It can be done, but I wouldn't recommend any cut of this length.
Photo 3 shows what I used to make the cut. It's a keyhole saw with a Stanley metal cutting blade. Only the outside layer is being cut. The lid needs a flange for weatherstripping. The best way I could figure out to do this is to cut the outside, mark the inside smaller, cut the inside, then cut the foam remaining between them. It will make sense (I hope) with more photos.
It really sucks to not have compressed air. No cut-off wheel, no impact wrenches, not even enough air to blow out all the dust and rust in the way.
Photo 1 shows what I'm trying to get working, with a lot of advice from Oldred in the Garage forum. It was designed to be powered by a 15 HP Ruggerini 2 cylinder diesel engine and provide 50 CFM at 90 PSI. It was part of a "tank maintenance kit" used by the USMC with grease guns, air-powered vacuum cleaners and 3/4" and 1" drive impact ratchets. The plate on the compressor reads:
"Iowa Mold Tooling Co., Inc.
Model No. DA650"
I read that as diesel, air compressor (or A-belt, it uses an A62 dual V-belt), 6 cylinder, 50 CFM.
I want it powered by an electric motor so I don't have that noise and so that it runs only when needed. One intake filter is off in the photo. The quart oil jug is just there to give visual scale. This photo shows the condition when I first started bugging Oldred for information.
Photo 2 shows the dinky compressor I used until it committed suicide by sending its tiny, oil-less piston through the side of itself. The tank, motor, safety valve, gauges and regulator are still good. Notice that each air intake filter on the big compressor is larger than the dinky compressor hanging off the end of that "5 HP" motor.
The 3/4" galvanized piping that connects the 3 manifolds (6 cylinders) is the result of most of an afternoon spent in the parking lot of a local hardware store. The lady who runs the place just turned me loose with her inventory to work out what I needed. When I finished, she brought pen and paper to my truck and "took inventory" of my plumber's nightmare. Try that at some national chain like Wal-Mart or Lowes.
Skipping around in time, but I want to get everything up to date about my compressor problems into one entry.
Photo 3 shows the latest crazy test of the big compressor, using the (claimed) "5 HP" motor from the dinky compressor. That motor has a 17mm diameter shaft that sticks out just 1". Rummage around your shop and see how many pulleys you have that will attach to such a thing. Maybe something from an alternator. All I had that came close was a 2" pulley with a 5/8" bore, so I turned the motor on and started filing until it fit. Unfortunately, I managed to get a taper so the pulley kept flying off. Hours to drill and tap for 1/4-20 took care of that.
It just so happened there was a shaft lying around with self-centering bearings, one 5" pulley and a collection of 3" pulleys, all keyed to the shaft. I got lucky with that heavy aluminum bracket with the blue splotch of paint: the holes drilled in it exactly matched those needed by the bearings. The other bracket was made using the first as a pattern.
That semi-flexible hose connecting the big compressor to the dinky's tank is a 3/4" hydraulic hose (thanks poncho62 and 61bone). This death-teasing conglomeration actually worked, sort of. The little motor turns 3450 RPM which yields 1380 RPM at the jackshaft with the 5" pulley and 3" pulleys, which yields 414 RPM when driving the 10" dual-groove flywheel of the big compressor or 345 RPM when driving the 12" pulley I bolted to that flywheel. Either way, the little motor simply stalls when the tank gets to 40 PSI and trips the circuit breaker.
Oldred found me an online source of compressor tanks and advised either a 5 HP or 7.5 HP motor and adjusting the pulley ratios used by measuring running current of the motor just before cut-off pressure. Tank is ordered; shopping for motor, switch and safety valve suitable for the compressor.
In case anyone still thinks "golf cart" when an electric vehicle is mentioned, check out the NEDRA (National Electric Drag Racing Association) site. On May 9, 2004, John Wayland became the first to drive a street legal electric dragster to over 100 mph in a quarter mile. The guy in the other lane was driving a 375 HP Camaro and had this to say after the run:
"I should be happy...this is the quickest my car's run, and the first time it's broken 100. You know your car pulls its front tires off the ground, right? I knew I was in trouble when you launched like that...the worse part, is that I'm going to have to tell my buddies that I got beat by a battery powered Datsun!"
(see http://www.nedra.com/wayland.html )
Wayland pushed his SC/B record to 101.18 mph and 12.991 seconds on May 14, 2004.
Enough of that, I'm not building an electric dragster, just something to be fun and look good.
Photo 1: wooden model of the electric motor that will be going in. The motor will be an Advanced DC 203-06-4004 from EV America. Running (continuous) horsepower for that motor at 72V is 16. That's just slightly less than the 21 HP peak rating of the gas engine that came in the 4CV. Peak for the ADC motor is 28 HP.
Photo 2: luckily a 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe jam fits over the transaxle input shaft. That allowed me to check for clearance over the rear crossmember (that dinky rail with the 2 large rubber cushions). The pipe is actually straight, as checked with a framing square, instead of slightly curved as it appears in the photo. I will have to either drop the existing crossmember a couple of inches or fabricate another one.
Photo 3: push-n-pray brakes. The red circled area is rusted through and will need a little welding repair. Thanks to suggestions in the Bulletin Board from ckucia, TooMany2count and OneMoreTime, I may be able to put discs on this thing. Chasing down options right now.
Splash pans removed around the engine, wiring disconnected (wiring is so simple the factory shows a 3D line drawing of the car with the wires instead of a diagram), heater core out, fuel line off, radiator brace, etc.
Photo 2: engine hoisted
Nothing fancy here - little come-along ratchet hoist, some chain to the engine, and a little guidance to turn it sideways as it comes out. Oh, yeah, and a son to be drafted into picking it up off the hook and setting it on a nearby tire. Don't try that with a big block.
Photo 3: engine compartment cleared
Radiator is out. That thing hanging in the middle is the handbrake equalizer. Those shocks are cute.