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09-28-2006 04:57 AM 1949 Olds -- Rotisserie, pt. 4
Cutting pipes with a Sawzall while trying to keep those cuts square and
straight is tedious. Getting the 2nd stand put together allowed me to
stand up to cut some more pipe, at least.

Photo 1: Close-up of the attachment of the 1/2" rebar to the top of the
2nd stand's upright. The first stand is behind this one and has an
uglier weld.

The rebar was ground down smooth where it would be welded. The first
piece of rebar was bent so that about 5 - 6 inches would lay along the
upright when the other end was clamped to the angle base. This was
tacked in place, then welded to the upright along the line where the
next piece of rebar would go. The next piece was fitted close to the
first and tacked. After that, the rebar was fully welded everywhere it
touched the upright, each other, and the base.

Photo 2: Temporarily clamping both stands to a length of 2 x 2 square
tubing allowed me to use them as a jig to hold pipe for cutting. You can
see the C-clamp (I think they call it a G-cramp in the UK) on the left
upright to hold the extension pipe up to match the level of the other
upright (the one with the obstruction in the 2-1/2" pipe).

There was some binding on the pipe I was cutting and rotating as the end
stands wanted to oscillate slightly. The angle bases and the rebar make
them fairly springy. With no pipe passing through the pivot sleeves, I
could nudge a stand and it would sway back and forth like an upside-down
pendulum for a long time.

Photo 3: Each stand makes a good welding jig, too. At the bottom of the
photo, where the welding clamp is attached, is the pivot sleeve of one
end stand. Inserted into that sleeve is one of the pivots, with the
other pivot clamped into it.

"Great fleas have little fleas upon their backs to bite 'em,
And little fleas have lesser fleas and so ad infinitum."

Each end stand extension is a "T" with the crossbar being a pivot
sleeve. Each pivot that fits in each extension is a "T" with the
crossbar being a pivot sleeve. Into each of these pivots will be a
straight length of 2" pipe, adjustable as needed, on which another
2-1/2" sleeve may be attached, carrying the body support frame or
whatever else is needed.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #108]

09-27-2006 07:32 PM 1949 Olds -- Rotisserie, pt. 3
I had some 2 x 3 x 3/16 steel angle on hand and decided to use it for
the bases. Cut in half, it yielded 2 bases 44-13/16" long, which is
close enough to the 48" I planned.

Photo 1: Test fit of the 2-1/2" pipe upright (actual OD = 2.875) to the
base. The end of the pipe was beveled before welding.

Photo 2: Close-up of the upright tacked to the base.

Photo 3: One complete end stand. Jeez, what a mess! That place was
fairly clean when I started. Grinding dust, slag and steel shavings are
all over the place, mixed with various and sundry implements of

The stand is braced with 2 pieces of 1/2" rebar (called "re-rod" in some
places; it's reinforcing rod for concrete). These are welded from the
upright side of the steel angle base to the front side of the pipe.

The pivot and its pipe won't go all the way down because that foundling
piece of 2-1/2" pipe was spliced at some time. The weld looks the same
on the inside as it does on the outside. Maybe someday I can weld like

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #107]

09-27-2006 07:12 PM 1949 Olds -- Rotisserie, pt. 2
The pivot sleeve for each end stand was a piece of 2-1/2" sch. 40 pipe
cut to 4" long and welded perpendicular to the end of a 32" length of 2"
sch. 40 pipe.

Photo 1: Close-up of the "fish mouth" cut in the end of the 2" pipe and
fitted to the 2-1/2". This is before grinding a bevel on that end for
welding. You can still see the feather edge from grinding the fish mouth.

Photo 2: Since this thing has to carry all the weight, I wanted good
penetration and a full, wide fillet. You can see there are places where
there was not much penetration. I ground the weld off in those areas and
did it again.

Photo 3: This is the kind of heavy fillet I wanted around those pivot
sleeves. This one is ready to use.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #106]

09-27-2006 06:55 PM 1949 Olds -- Rotisserie, pt. 1
I had to buy some steel for the rotisserie.

Photo 1: That's over $320 worth of steel! The 4 pieces of 2" x 2" x 11
ga. square steel tubing are over half of that cost. Each piece of the
square tubing is 12' long. The 2" schedule 40 pipe (actual OD is 2.375")
was cut to 2 pieces at 11'-4" and 2 pieces 9'-8". Also in the little
pile are 2 pieces of 1/4" x 2" x 8" bar stock.

The pipes are mainly what I needed. The rest is just in case.

Photo 2: A piece of the old 2-1/2" pipe I had on hand. This one has a
very ugly torch cut. I don't have a nice, automated metal-cutting
bandsaw to make straight, square cuts in the pipe. What I have is a
Sawzall. To get a clean cut, I wrapped the pipe with a piece of plastic
that has a straight edge, then dragged a worn-out blade (they always
have a few good teeth left at the end) alongside the piece of plastic to
mark the cut.

I then put the pipe through a piece of heavy plastic pipe held in a vise
and rotated it while running the Sawzall slowly in the scored line.

Photo 3: Here's a close-up of the final cut. By rotating the pipe while
cutting, the blade trues the edges of the cut. As it goes deeper, it
also tries to align itself and straighten out any wobbles I've made. I
haven't found a better way to get a straight cut in pipe with a Sawzall.

There were a lot of cuts to make.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #105]

09-26-2006 10:18 PM 1949 Olds -- Rotisserie plan
It's probably not warranted nor justifiable, but I've been working on a
rotisserie. This will be used while working on the frame and, later, for
working on the body.

The basic idea mimics an engine stand, only doubled. A typical engine
stand has one of its legs in exactly the wrong place. That leg
drastically reduces the clearance under the pivot point.

Here's a trail I followed: > Hotrodders Knowledge Base >
Garage - Tools > Garage - Tools Information > Garage - Tools Discussions

That leads to

"Shine" posted a few pictures of his rotisserie, which uses a perimeter
framework to support the body. I like that idea. I also noted that he
uses no third leg sticking out under the pivot, nor any other legs
aligned along the axis of rotation. This makes sense to me, because the
rotating framework already connects the two stands together. If the
pivots are strong enough, the only rocking motion will come from the
space between the rotating part and the sleeve it rides in.

With an 8 ft. ceiling height, the maximum radius of anything rotating in
that space is 48 inches. That would be true with 0 clearance allowed, a
perfectly flat and level floor and a perfectly flat and level ceiling.
The practical limit is a bit less. Each end stand is an upside-down "T"
with the pivot at the top. I like Shine's simple height adjustment
mechanism, except I'm turning it upside down to put the smaller,
slip-fit part at the top.

I'm building my rotisserie mostly from pipe instead of square tubing.
Pipe doesn't care which way it is loaded; a square or rectangular beam
is stronger in some directions than others. Since the load may be
pushing down on the support framework from any angle, depending on how
the body is rotated, pipe seems to me a better choice for the beams.

The body of my '49 Olds is roughly 54 inches high and 72 inches wide at
the rear fenders (the old girl has wide hips). It is 11 ft 4 inches from
the rearmost body mounts to the foremost. I'm making the support
framework that long. If I need to rotate the body and chassis frame
together, the frame will not need my supporting pipes. It's been
supporting that body for over half a century without my help.

Considering the body to be a rectangular solid, it will rotate in a
cylinder of 90 inches in diameter. It should be able to rotate 360
degrees in my garage if I raise the lights to be flush with the ceiling
and if I don't reduce the capacity of my rotisserie with an engine
stand-like leg under the pivot point. Making the height of the pivot
point to be adjustable will also allow me to add casters later, if
needed or desired.

I had some 2-1/2" (nominal) schedule 40 pipe on hand. This was leftover
from building my swingset-style hoist frame. The "ALVIN PIPE LOAD
2" schedule 40 pipe is capable of handling a 1074 pound load evenly
distributed on a 10 ft. span. I already know that 2" sched. 40 pipe
makes a fairly good slip-fit inside 2-1/2" sched. 40 pipe, so there are
the basic materials for my rotisserie. I couldn't rob the hoist frame of
its 2" pipe, so I just had to go buy some more.

This is a good reference for pipes, also:

"Carbon, Alloy and Stainless Steel Pipes - ASME/ANSI B36.10/19 Pipe
sizes, inside and outside diameters, wall thickness, schedules, moment
of inertia, transverse area, weight of pipe filled with water - U.S.
Customary Units"

I also bought some 2x2, 11 gauge square steel tubing. This may be needed
to tie the two stands together at their bases, if I have too much slop
in the pivots.

The plans and the machine are being worked out as I go.

Image 1: This is an end view drawing of one stand. It's not a CAD
drawing, nor does it include dimensions of parts. The upright, 2-1/2"
pipe is 34" long. The 2" pipe that fits in it was 32" long before
cutting the "fish mouth" to fit the 4" long, 2-1/2" pipe pivot. The base
is 48" in the drawing, but I used some angle that I had on hand and it
worked out to be 45". I'm using 1/2" rebar for the angled braces on the
side of the non-movable upright. These provide strength in tension
rather than compression.

Image 2: A side view of one stand. I want to rotate the body about its
center of gravity while supporting it underneath. How far that support
hangs below the pivot will have to be determined by trial and error, so
it has to be adjustable. I chose to make it adjustable at two places,
the pivot and where the supporting framework attaches to the pipe
hanging from the pivot. That adds a little more flexibility without much
extra complication. After the Olds comes off the rotisserie, I have a
'59 Renault 4CV that needs to go on it.

Image 3: Just for giggles -- The end view of a stand superimposed over a
photo of the rear of the Olds.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #104]

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