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08-27-2006 07:06 AM 1949 Olds -- More trunk lid woes
Some folks in the Body - Exterior forum suggested I hit that pitted
trunk lid with a 3M Roloc surface conditioning disc. It helped, but
still didn't clean out the pits.

Photo 1 -- Close-up with flash. The two holes in the picture are 1-1/4
in., center to center.

Photo 2 -- Same spot, without flash. My worry is that rust could be
lurking at the bottoms of those pits, just hidden by the rust converted
by the phosphoric acid.

I did a little more sandblasting with my little spitting suction feed
blaster. It just doesn't put out enough sand to get much done in a
reasonable amount of time. I've ordered a pressure blaster.

Photo 3 -- This is an attempt to avoid having sand from sandblasting
going everywhere. That's "crystal clear" plastic sheeting, 6 mils thick,
hanging from a 1x6 stretching from one side of the garage bay to the
other. It hangs down to just below the frame of the car. I simply put my
gloves on and reach under the plastic to blast the trunk lid. An exhaust
fan at the far end of the garage keeps all the dust heading that way and
the plastic gives me much better visibility than my face shield. Tucked
under the trunk lid is some ordinary 6 mil polyethylene, to try to keep
the sand more contained. There is no concrete floor in this bay, yet, so
I don't have to sweep up, but that sand can be used more than once if

The next suggestion I received for the trunk was to use a 3M Clean &
Strip wheel, followed by Naval Jelly. Naval Jelly includes a small
percentage of sulfuric acid, so it may be able to get to the bottoms of
the pits. I'll try that while waiting for the pressurized sandblaster to

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #88]

08-18-2006 04:21 PM 1949 Olds -- Engine and transmission out
Photo 1 -- The side of the transmission. The cast numbers (upside down)
are 8611249.

Photo 2 -- The plate on the side of the transmission, after some of the
crud was rubbed off.

Photo 3 -- There it swings, about 5 ft. 6 in. long. The blue straps are
there just to help stability. I will use a hose clamp and oil jug to
cover that tail shaft. All openings will be closed, such as the brass
connector for the oil pressure gauge. The starter was put back on to
close that hole. The big oil bath air filter will also be put back on. I
don't intend to use this assembly, but I don't want it to ruin.

Now I need to find a place to store that thing.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #87]

08-18-2006 04:17 PM 1949 Olds -- Pulling engine and trans
After the frustration of the rust pits in the trunk lid, I couldn't wait
to accomplish at least something, so I worked the wee hours after
midnight to get the engine and transmission out.

Photo 1 -- There is the beast hanging by a 'come-along' (ratchet hoist)
and chain from the framework shown in an earlier journal entry.

There were 2 bolts on each side running through the transmission mounts
into the rear crossmember. The bolts were originally welded to the
transmission mounts. The welds broke on the two on the same side as the
starter. Eventually those two bolts broke, after getting told bad things
about their ancestry. The nuts on the two bolts on the other side came
off as if they had only been put on last week. Two bolts attached the
nose of the engine to the front crossmember. The only problem they
caused was minor; the only access to the nuts is through a large hole in
the underside of the crossmember and it is not centered on those bolts.
A universal joint, socket and extension took care of that.

Photo 2 -- I chose the hole for the ground strap to use as a lifting
point in the front. You can see the severe rearward tilt of the engine
and transmission in this photo.

Photo 3 -- The rear lifting point chosen was where one of the bolts
holds the engine and transmission together. The transmission was a lot
heavier than I expected, hence the severe tilt. You can see the tail of
the transmission resting on the rear crossmember. I had to disconnect
one end of that crossmember to get clearance for the transmission pan to
pass over.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #86]

08-18-2006 04:13 PM 1949 Olds -- Prep for engine, trans pull
Photo 1 -- The rusty panel the hood was attached to, complete with pads
and mud daubers nests.

Photo 2 -- An interesting throttle linkage. Notice the link from the
starter solenoid to the throttle. I don't remember it from when I used
to drive this car, but it apparently opened the throttle some as the
starter engaged. All of this linkage was disconnected in preparation for
pulling the engine and transmission.

Photo 3 -- The starter was removed to give more room to get to the
transmission mount bolts. That green is original Oldsmobile engine
green. A few teeth show some nicks, but not bad at all for a 57 year old

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #85]

08-18-2006 04:08 PM 1949 Olds -- From trunk to hood
Photo 1 -- This is all of the sandblasting accomplished in over half a
day. Not only is the sandblaster not doing an adequate job, it takes far
too long to do that inadequate job. Work on the trunk lid is halted
until I can get some advice.

Photo 2 -- While the acid sat on the trunk, I started work on the hood
again. Three screws on each side (1/4x20 Philips) hold the hood to the panel attached to
the hinges. 1 screw on each side had to be drilled out.

Photo 3 -- 2 bolts, hiding under the glob of undercoating, hold the
hinged panel to the center of the hood.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #84]

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