Photo 1 -- The rear glass was much easier than the front to remove. The
rubber channel was too stiff to flex. I had to chip the interior lip off
along with the old cement. After that, the glass pushed out easily.
That brownish mess all over the trunk lid is the leftover from many
experiments to try to remove the old paint and rust. It will be cleaned
off and I'll try the same thing that worked on the hood: a 40 grit,
E-weight 3M pad on my DA sander.
Photo 2 -- Those slots and the flattened area are where the huge hood
ornament used to be. I don't want that gaudy thing going back on, so
I'll have to figure out how to fill the holes and make it look like
there never was an ornament on it.
Photo 3 -- Another view of the problem. The sharp ridge doesn't look
like it will be much trouble to duplicate. That wide, flattened area for
the base of the hood ornament is what puzzles me. I hope there is some
way to blend it without hammering.
Photo 1 -- Glass does not bend at room temperature. The rubber channel
that held the windshield in place for 57 years didn't want to let go. I
rushed a little and put too much pressure in the wrong place. It was
stuck along the center dividing post. You can see by the breaks that I
was applying pressure at the outside upper corner. It should have been
the inside upper corner, at the top of the center dividing post.
Photo 2 -- The second half came out without breaking. I made certain the
old, brittle cement on the rubber seal was broken before pushing on the
Photo 3 -- The rear window has the same type of interior trim held by
screws as the front did. At least all of these screws are the same
length. The lower, outside trim piece is clipped on and covers 4 screws;
2 at each lower corner of the glass, holding a small piece of trim.
As a break from sanding, I decided to tackle a job that I've been
dreading since the beginning of the project: removing the windshield.
Luckily, I found the 1949 Fisher Body Manual online at
I didn't get the windshield out today, but got a good start. The only
really stubborn screw I ran into was the one at the end of the lower
trim, in the door opening.
Photo 1 shows the outside trim and the windshield wiper shaft. This
lower piece of trim has to come off before the windshield can be
removed. The upper trim is locked into a groove in the rubber seal and
comes out with the glass.
Photo 2 shows the center of the interior trim around the windshield.
That slotted head screw in the center piece is actually a barrel nut
screwed onto a stud, coming from the exterior center trim, and passing
through the center rubber seal. The Philips head screws hold the inside
trim to the dash. There are 3 different lengths: the short ones go in
the sides, the longest ones are along the bottom, and the medium ones go
along the top.
Photo 3 is looking up behind the dash. The red arrows point to 2 of the
bolts holding the lower exterior trim on the windshield. The blue arrow
points to the bolt and retainer for the windshield wiper shaft. Note the
It has been nearly a year since I updated this journal. It feels longer.
Many things have kept me from my projects, including having to UN-wreck
my daughter's car, making a mess of pouring concrete in another bay of
my garage, finishing the trench and conduit for rewiring my garage, and
general must-do work around the homestead. By the time I caught up with
all the other work, a heat wave set in and crushed all desire to work in
my garage. That seems to have broken, finally.
I've been trying to sand the body down to bare metal, but with limited
success. My sandblaster just annoys me and teases the paint. There is no
telling how many stick-on, 80 grit pads I've worn out on my DA sander.
In frustration, I grabbed some 3M 40 grit pads on E-weight paper and the
paint started coming off.
Photo 1 shows the hood with the hood ornaments and letters off and half
of it sanded to metal.
Photo 2 shows the rust pits in the half that has been sanded. It looks
like I will need to use phosphoric acid on this.
Photo 3 is a close-up of the nose where the letters "OLDSMOBILE" used to
be. Only the 3 pairs of holes should be there. The others are
rust-throughs that will have to be repaired. These holes mean that the
hood must be rusting under the layer of undercoating on the other side.
Photo 2: Head-on view. Still to do: remove those grille bars, remove the
headlight buckets, and separate the two fenders along the centerline of
the nose. The nuts and bolts in that area are severely rusted and will
probably have to be cut or broken to avoid damaging the sheet metal.
Photo 3: A view of the front suspension, from the passenger's side,
passing through the tunnel in that front tub.