Photo 1: After getting the headlight adjuster rings off, the rusted
heads of the headlight buckets resisted everything I threw at them. I
decided to just leave them in place, unwire the headlight sockets, and
continue taking the nose off. Maybe some more time soaking in oil will
allow me to take them off without further damage.
Photo 2: Three bolts under the front hold the bottom, front of the nose.
The other bolts holding the front sheet metal on are: Two bolts are
located on top in the front, where the hood latches. There are two large
Philips head screws holding the hood lock loop in place and helping to
hold the front sheet metal on. There are 3 bolts along the top of each
fender inside the trunk and 3 bolts holding the rear edge of each fender
to the body at the front edge of the front doors. At the top, rear of
each fender, another bolt passes through from inside, just under each
end of the dash, holding the fenders under the windshield corners.
It was a good zip-lock baggie full of bolts, nuts and washers.
Photo 3: A rotten place just to the outside of the driver's side bolt
from photo 2.
Photo 1: Parking/turn signal light assembly removal. The heads of the
screws holding the lens on were not rusted and neither were the heads of
the two screws holding the socket holder. The threads showing on the
insides of the fenders were just globs of rust and didn't give up
without a fight. The bell-shaped socket holder is made of two pieces: a
metal bell inside a plastic one. Sliding the plastic part back along the
wires revealed the two brass blocks with screws holding the wires. The
only other disconnection point was inside the trunk where all the wires
to all the front lights came together at a terminal strip.
Photo 2: The trim rings holding the headlights were the worst.
Several times I was tempted to just rip them off regardless of the
damage. They finally let go and revealed that the headlight buckets
couldn't be removed until the adjuster rings were removed and the wires
pulled from the headlight sockets. The bumper is already removed in this
Photo 3: This is not the recommended way to use either vise grips or
needle nose pliers, but it did break those rusty screws loose when a
screwdriver just mangled the slots. The pliers are pretty much ruined,
but they were cheap junk to begin with.
Photo 1: Rusted hole in what passes for a frame, passenger's side, front.
Photo 2: There is a narrow panel that screws to the underside of the
side rail and has a mud flap attached behind the front fender. The
bottom of the frame rail where that panel attaches is rotted along most
of the passenger's side under the doors. It may have saved the car from
splatters on the doors, but it apparently trapped mud under that
perimeter rail and caused it to rot.
Photo 3: Another hole. This is a side shot in the same area as photo 1.
At the bottom is the panel from photo 2.
Photo 2: Close-up of one of the roll pins used to hold the doors on.
This forms the hinge pin common to both front and rear doors. It's
surprising to me that these worked so well for over 40 years without
working their way out of the hinges. I don't think I can improve on
such a simple, effective mechanism.
Photo 3: Severe rot in the body at the front of the driver's front door
sill. This area actually serves as a frame rail so it must have a good,