Small update today so I finished up modeling the downtube. I only need to mock up one, and then have two bent to match. All the support braces, gussets, and such don't need to be modeled up. I may still model up a side bar for the doors but I'm thinking about a removable one, so nothing is built yet. I know there are various clips and bolt in mounts, etc. I could use so I need to look into it more.
Over the weekend I was able to fix my warped driver side door and start building a model of my roll bars. The door was a simple cut, clamp and epoxy. As for the roll bar- I'm not sure how the pros do it, but I did this on my last build and it worked well for me- I mock up the basic structure with PVC tubing as plastic is cheap and easy to work with, and I can build exactly what I want, adjust as needed until I'm happy with the result and I don't have to live with any compromises of a universal kit or someone else's interpretation of what I want. In one of the pics I indicated a red line of how I will adjust the rear down tube to fit inside better. My goal is for a basic 6 point structure, but since this will be mostly street driven and I'm not building it to NHRA specs, I like to build the cage as close to the car body as possible to minimize loss of interior space as well as minimize risk of driving a caged car on the street. Plus I'll go back later and add plates to attach this to the body which really helps to stiffen it up.
Happy 4th, everyone! This weekend I spent some time figuring out how I'd solve the rubbing of the front clip against the door. At first I was thinking about using the compression springs that are typically used behind a door handle or window crank, but that would only push the ends of the clip outward. That wouldn't really help me as I'm lifting or lowering the clip- which is where the rubbing occurs. My next thought was using a torsion coil spring, but that didn't work as hoped, however, I knew I was on the right path. I ended up using some door hinges and bent them into a radiused shape that would be strong enough to guide the clip out as it approached the doors, and would be soft enough to compress when the clip was pinned down. It took a few tries with the location and tuning the spring pressure, and now I have a solution that works well and I'm quite happy with. Of course, the paint will eventually rub off the hinges, and I can live with that. If not, one option is to add some delrin material to act as a slider in this area. The pics should help explain, and I'm thinking of making a youtube video.
I filled in a few holes on the driver side that I had drilled out in creating this, and took the time to fill in the holes at the top of the cowl area on each side. I also discovered that my driver door is actually warped in the front corner. It sticks out, and I'll have to cut the door and reglue it to fix this.
Last weekend I glued the metal tubing to the hood with some epoxy like liquid nails caulk. This was only intended to be enough to hold the frame in place and fill in the gaps while I glass it to the underside, which I did earlier today. It was really my first fiberglass attempt, and aside from a local college class I took last summer about composite fabrication, I've never worked with fiberglass before. I guess it came out OK. I'll let it cure this week and hopefully sand it down next weekend and then start working on making some type of stopper, as well as mounting the pins and anything else needed.
Btw, it was rather hot out here today. It's days like these I really appreciate having a fridge in the garage filled with icy cold beverages to keep me refreshed and hydrated while I work