Started to build the frame for under the front end for the tilting hood. It's only tacked together, and I'm thinking I should spend the time now to build this frame in a way that leaves me the option to cut a hole in the hood, just in case some future engine component needs to stick up through the hood ...
I did weld in a tube through the frame for strength, and after bending the two main bars I cut them and added a sleeve in one section. This allowed me to easily rotate them to taper outwards. I find this easier than trying to mirror a torquing bend in the tubing.
Minor updates here, especially compared to a few weeks back, I am working on fitting the fiberglass doors that came with my car. The passenger side took re-engineering the hinges (they wouldn't move far enough inwards) to get the pass door to sit close to the body. It also didn't move up high enough to get the front part of the door to line up with the details in the car body. The driver side wasn't as bad, but the bottom side is in too far. This could be due to the fiberglass door not being accurate, but my rocker panel has waves in it, too. I think it'll be easiest for me to revise the lower hinge which will also help the top part of the door tuck in more (currently this area sticks out a bit) and then to massage the body for any further fine tuning. Once I'm happy with this I'll get the front clip lined up and work on making the hinge/ frame assembly for that to make a tilt hood.
Today I finished up the rear mounts for the leaf springs. I'm fairly confident- well, as much as I can be having never built a gasser before, and not having an engine in this, and nothing around to simulate the weight of an engine I don't have or even know what I'm going to purchase- that the rear mounts will be OK like this. I can raise or lower the front ones to fine tune my ride height, as well as add or reduce shims for the axle itself to set my caster angle. Once the engine is in then I can figure out the steering box placement.