OK, it's time to muddy the water again and introduce another project I have and will eventually get going on- a 1955 Chevy 210 that I'll be oh so original with and make a low buck-ish ratty gasser out of. It may have some 2LBT influence to it, too.
The car I bought is rough and it was cheap. It was a stalled race car project. The floor is gone, and it came with glass doors, front clip and trunk a la 2lbt, so I'm happy that I have these already. The car also came with wheel tubs, a 9" housing and an aftermarket leaf spring set up, as well as chrome-moly tubular control arms for the front. I sold those arms and sourced a front axle from a '57 Chevy truck as well as some 200s rims. I also have a few boxes of loose various parts for the car which will help.
Today I started cutting the floor out. Although I do have replacement pans it looks like I'll need some seat bracing and inner rockers, too. I'll have more time between Christmas and the new year so hopefully I'll get more of the old floor removed.
The choice of engine is not finalized yet. Nor is the trans, though I do know it'll have a clutch pedal whatever I end up with.
Here's more pics from the weekend. I installed my 5th belts as well as cut holes in my seats (not without poking myself with the exacto, ha ha) and got my front hook installed. Of course, it needed trimming and I managed to destroy the headlight wiring in the process by pulling wires out from sockets as they were too short. So I had to rewire my headlights and I gave them longer wires/ weather pack connectors to allow for improved future dis assembly.
I've signed up for a track day in January (Speed Ventures @ Fontana Raceway Jan 16th) and now I need to get the car ready. One of the things I need are tow hooks. Since my car is so customized, I doubt that I could just buy a set (and why would I want to. that would be too easy, ha ha) I had to first make a place to mount a rear hook, then the hook itself. Then I made the front hook... only I welded all my front bumper brackets when I built the car. So the front bumper assy will need to come off, cut the welds, and reassemble everything and hopefully the tow hook will fit in there.
Now that the car is running and driving my time is spent either driving, or fixing things that are buggy. I've still been dealing with leaks on this. trans fluid leaks, engine oil leaks. I think the trans is leaking from the input shaft seal- likely because my Lakewood housing isn't centered enough. I've been reading about this and everything will have to come back out so I'm dreading this one as it involves holes in the sheet metal to access bolts. time to make a removable cover. The other has been engine oil. Turns out the shop that built my engine sold me some defective parts- the valve covers were warped! They're going to get an earful from me on this, as they upsold me on the covers in the first place, then they leaked from day one, charged me for a new gasket- which popped out and spewed oil all over. When I was fixing this is when I discovered that it was warped. bowed like a canoe. It's no wonder the gasket popped out, the cover was so warped it went off past the cylinder head. Furthermore it was hitting the rocker arms. clack clack clack and the cover would shake. not good. So ground down the inside to make more room, bent the cover back in a press and had help decking it so it would be flat again. still leaked. bad. so much oil was dribbling out there was smoke coming out from the hood vents I recently made. So I ordered new billet covers (avoiding these welded ones altogether). I had to modify the oil cap to work with my catch can assy, which I promptly ruined when trying to braze it together. Lesson learned: don't overheat aluminum. $62 later a second oil cap (yes, the cap was $50 plus tax and shipping. grrr) and some careful brazing and I think I have it fixed. At least this one. I'm still getting dribbles somewhere but I can't seem to find where they're coming from. It's dry around the valve cover yet it's still wet around the exhaust header flange/ bolts. Either it's still leaking or it's residue from before that hasn't burnt off.
Also having issues with my parking brakes. The drums are wearing against the axles. Other than the wheel cylinder there isn't anything inside to hold them in place. A stock oem assembly would have a bracket at the top, but, since this is using a universal backing plate a cover plate is there instead- and with the pressed on Torino bearings it's impossible to install one of the oem clips, so I added some springs to help hold them in place. Seems to be doing the trick.
I also hogged out my ram air vents to help with airflow in the engine bay. I'm having overheating issues with my driver side header melting everything around it. I'll probably have to throw on another (closed) set if/ when I make it to a track day so I'm not adding too much air pressure in the engine bay/ lift in front, but I would think this should be Ok for street driving. If anyone has any experience on this I'd like to hear about it.