The cowl area at the front of the doors got the attention today, I had previously mocked up the door position with the old hinges. The new hinges altered the alignment of the door so the lower part of the front stuck out a bit. I remedied this problem by slicing the back of the cowl and relocating the metal, adding extra material in a wedge widening to the base; it worked quite well.
I decided to leave the mechanicals for a couple of weeks as the weather is good for bodywork at the moment. I have fixed the hinges, door locks and sorted out the problem with the door gaps. This problem arrived when I had to cut the car in three bits to get it to SA from Qld in '03. Sheesh!
I also got the bonnet sorted and I will get a new glass grille surround as the one I got from my mate looks like it has been fired from a cannon, its always been on my mind to make a steel grille by forming the steel myself so I will be able to do it after the cars on the road, using the glass one as a guide. Got to see the upholsterer the other day and worked out some of the interior plans - things are really starting to happen.
For some reason I had two part fours so this becomes part 6 !!
The fist picture shows the area that the ring gear touched the bellhousing of the new transmission. I decided the best option was to move the flex plate back towards the crank flange and relive the alloy around the back oof the block, the area I did this is additional webbing and comes nowhere near the essential areas. I used an old grinder wheel and then the die grinder to smooth off the cuts. The second and third picture are of the before and after shots of the flexplate position.
I went to the machine shop this morning and Graham said he would shorten the alignment shaft as I waited, which I did then returned to the shed. With my faithful helper Alex, we manhandled and chocked the engine block and trans into place. With the parts positioned I added spacers under the trans until I could turn the alignment shaft independently of the spigot and the input shaft, this should put me within a couple of thou to perfect alignment. Next we held the trans in place and with a transfer punch I made from a bit of 1/2 round stock (I put it in the drill chuck, spun it and held the hand grinder at 45 degrees till the point was centred making the punch) ; I then made a centre point mark with the punch, took it to the drill stand and drilled the hole to 1/2 inch. After four repetitions I then bolted the adapter plate to the trans and marked the second last hole which was to interfere slightly with the boss on the engine around the starter. I also found that the ring gear interfered a little with the trans bellhousing and that I need to buy some 3/8 unc countersunk bolts to get clearance from the bellhousing face. Next job is to reset the ring gear back to the other side of the flexplate as it bolts on, relieve the alloy around the base of the block for clearance and make a spacer to bring the starter bach the same amount. I might get Graham to turn the spacer used on the end of the Rover crank down if its a better option.
First pic is the three spacers, spigot and the alignment shaft; second pic is the adapter plate after trimming with the grinder and leaving the best to last is the trans and engine block bolted together. I will tack weld the second row of bolts facing outward from the block to make it easier to sit the trans on. I have gone to all this trouble so that the trans is used in its entirety with its original convertor in case I blow it up later!!