Photo 1 shows a great use for that otherwise useless 15mm wrench. It made a perfect screed to level the cement filler to about 3/8" depth.
Now I waited on the cement to dry thoroughly, about 3 days was enough. This is important since the rubber I used is a urethane product and urethanes will foam if exposed to free water. I used PL brand self leveling crack filler that comes in a light gray color. They also make a crack patching formula but it is a paste that must be troweled and won't self level. I simply squeezed it into the crack with my caulking gun and let it flow to level out in the crack. Photo 2 shows the result. I got about 7' from each caulking tube for my 1" x 3/8" slot. Once set up in about 3 days, it should be a permanent fix to those nasty cracks in my floor.
Oh, and I guess I need to show you details of my crack! Figure 3 is a sketch of three types of cracks you might encounter. the first is my super-expansion joint, the second is a typical small expansion joint (smaller but still needs to be filled. Be sure to caulk the bottom if there is a crack in the cement 'cause that crack will suck up all the expensive urethane.), and the third is a common big unplanned crack in the cement.
One thing I wanted to do in my new shop was get rid of the expansion joint cracks that stay dirty all the time and collect stray nuts and bolts. Photo 1 shows the really large joints my builder put in this shop floor. I guess this is the new trend to make HUGE cracks. These are 1" wide and 3/4 " deep! They are working as you can see from the crack at the bottom but are totally unacceptable. If the cracks had vertical sides I could have stuffed them full of foam chords about 3/8" deep and filled the rest with urethane rubber as shown in photo 2. Unfortunately the groves are V-shaped so the chord won't work.
I decided instead to fill the groves with patching cement as shown in photo 3. I mixed the cement to a consistency of runny catchup and poured it into the grooves partially filling them. This served two purposes - it sealed the cracks at the bottom of the grooves so the expensive urethane rubber won't disappear, and it takes up space so I won't use so much rubber.
Now all that is needed is to add the hoses, fill the fluid reservoir w/ 3 1/2gallons of Dexron tranny fluid and hook up the electricity. Photos 2 and 3 show the short hose from the pump to the cylinder, a tee at that cylinder that feeds a hose going to the cylinder at the far side of the hoist. The directions were pretty bad here too. We had to figure out how to route the hoses and fittings but it is pretty easy to do.
The only other little problem I had was hooking up the ground to the motor. The screw they provide is way back-corner of the box on the motor box and at an angle that prevents a screwdriver from reaching it. I took the motor box off with 4 screws and attached a bare wire to the screw that I could attach to the lead from my electric panel with a wire nut.
All in all, it was a one day task and pretty easy at that.
Oh and I am going to put heavy duty brackets from the top of my hoist to rafters on the ceiling. I just don't like the idea of a 4000# car balanced over my head on the strength of a dozen 1/2" anchor bolts!
The directions for installing the equalizing cables were nearly useless. Photo 1 shows the view down into one of the towers. You can see the big chain that wraps over a pulley on a hydraulic ram that raises the side lift. Yo can also see the two cables that attach to the side lift. The one on the right stabs down through the plate and it is impossible to get the nut on the bottom unless the side lift is manually raised above the ram pulley. The directions say 28" but it is really more like 4' to clear the ram head. When two people are lifting the unit, a third must pull the chain up and wire it up, otherwise it flops around and gets wedged between the ram and lift parts.
Also, the pulley sits on top of the ram w/ no fasteners and the ram sits on a peg at the base (photo 2). Both easily dislodge from their mounts and are a bear to get back on. Just be careful raising that unit. Once up the left cable is snaked through the hole on the right and a nut is hand screwed all the way up the threads. Use a wire brush to clean the dirt and grease off the threads and try the nut all the way before trying to do it in place. If it goes on tight, the springy cable makes it impossible to tighten. The cable from the other side is snaked up through the tower and in the pipe sleeve on the left. Hand tighten both cables then use a pneumatic ratchet to tighten the cables pretty taught. A regular ratchet can't get enough throw to overcome the spring in the cable. They must be fairly tight and equally tense to insure the two sides go up and down together.
Photo 3 shows them where they pass under the floor plate. Also shows in the hydraulic line going to the cylinder opposite the pump tower. The directions were no help here.
Drilling the holes took a couple hours. There are 6 3/4" holes around each base plate. The holes in the plate are big enough to drill through but cement is hard. And don't even think of using anything less than a big 1/2" drill. The one we used is an old Black and Decker that I inherited from my dad. Built in the 50s, it didn't slow down with full body weight on it. Anything less will fry in no time. Note the riser is a couple feet off the floor. This is to get it clear of the drilling but also to aid in installation of the two equalizing cables that insure the two sides go up and down together. Here is were the instructions were little or no help. Also it takes two men to lift one of the sides - they are heavy.
While they drilled, I mounted the motor . Real easy w/ 4 5/16" bolts.
The final shot shows the anchor bolts they supply. Lots of holding power. The shims slip under the base plate to get the posts perfectly plumb. The kit had everything we needed.