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View willys36@aol.com's profile Entries: 207
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01-18-2005 07:40 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to52
The first shot shows how I pop-riveted the door welting to the door frame. It is also glued with more 3m-90.

I needed something on the rear panel of the cab between the headliner and the rear seat back. I glued on a sheet of 1/8" closed cell foam before installing the windows. The foam was trimmed back 1/2" from the window openings so it wouldn't interfere with the window rubber. Photo 2 shows a piece of tweed upholstery glued to the foam. I am pretty proud of doing this all in one piece except for the risers between the rear side window and the quarter window. Just too much compound curve here to make it work. Photo 3 shows a separate piece I glued in to fill this gap.

To install the windows I had to peel back the upholstery from the sheet metal so the window rubber would go in. It is a really tight fit and the upholstery made the sheet metal rim too thick to fit the channel in the rubber. Once the windows were installed, I was able to stuff the upholstery under the lip of the rubber on the rear window but not the quarter windows. That rubber was too tight. I carefully cut the upholstery to the rubber's edge and glued it to the sheet metal. Looks fine and should last OK.


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  [Entry #92]

01-18-2005 07:26 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to51
Photo 1 shows the two sided aluminum bubble pack insulation I used everywhere inside the cab except the floor. This stuff is available at Home Depot or Lowe's in big rolls for few shekels. Photo 2 shows the aluminum coated thick felt stuff I used on the floor. I think it will stand up better than the bubble pack will under foot loading.

The last shot is of the carpet installed. I first glued down the felt then the carpet to that using the 3M90 spray adhesive. You can see one of my kick panels I was playing with installed in the upper right hand corner of the picture.

Next task is to make the firewall pad form 1/8" plywood with a fiberglass center section over the curved center portion of the firewall.


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  [Entry #91]

01-18-2005 07:19 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to50
As show previously I built the back of the rear seat from 2x4s and plywood. Photo 1 shows how I got it ready to upholster. All the foam is open-cell 1" foam. I glued a wedge along the bottom edge of the plywood to serve as lumbar support for the small of the back. Then I glued a full sheet over the entire surface of the board but didn't wrap it around any edges. Finally I glued a third sheet on that did wrap around all of the edges.

The second photo shows the diagram I drew on the foam to guide my upholstery guy. I am doing all of the upholstery except the sewing of the seat covers.

Photo 3 show the final result. When these go in the truck, the back sits firmly on the seat bottom.


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  [Entry #90]

01-18-2005 07:11 PM Hub drilling tool
Here is a nifty drilling fixture I had a machinist friend make for me years ago. It is a 3/4" steel plate drilled with Mustang II 4-bolt pattern, and 5 on 4 1/2", 5 on 4 3/4" and 5 on 5" holes. The holes are counter bored to receive standard hardened drill bushings shown in the picture. These bushings come in all sizes and the one that I have are for holes for the fluted shoulder on the lug bolts to drill the holes in the hub and for the size of the lug bolt thread to pass the brake drum over the bolts. The center is sized to fit MII hubs only. I want to someday have that bored out and inserts made to fit all hubs.

To use it, I knocked out all but one stud in a MII hub, indexed the fixture with a bushing in one 4-lug hole then drilled the 5-lug pattern desired. Two of the 4-lug holes in the MII hub must be filled because they overlap with the 5-lug pattern. I fill all 4 holes for a cleaner look. I drill and tap for large threaded rod, epoxy the rod in with JB weld then smooth off the surface.

They used to sell these fixtures in the ads in rod magazines years ago but I haven't seen an ad for years. I guess it isn't cool to do it yourself anymore, you must buy the $$$$$$$$$$ after-market billet hubs to be "in". I ain't "in"!


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  [Entry #89]

12-26-2004 11:16 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to49
I glued and pop-riveted the door welting to the body as shown in photo 1.

Photo 2 shows the Auveco panel clips I use. A box of 100 is about $8. These are great 'cause all they need is a 1/4" hole through the wood and steel and they pop right in.


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  [Entry #88]

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