I have had several questions about my car so rather than keep answering them over and over, here is a link https://hotrodders.com/projects/001/01.html to The old Project of the Week feature that Jon discontinued and replaced with these Project Journals.
Now that you have totally ruined the razor blade, bend it in a gentle curve (photo 1) to prepare it for its duty as a paint scraper. The burr that you just rolled on the edge should be on the top of the curve. This step insures that when the blade is used on a drip or sag, its edge can be concentrated on the high spot and the surrounding lower paint surface will be protected.
To use it, gently drag the burred edge over the offending high spot. You will be amazed how easily it scrapes off a fine shaving and at the control you have in leveling the surface perfectly. Once you can feel that the high is gone, color sand the whole panel as usual and polish it to perfection.
Unless you are perfect in your painting technique, there is a likelihood that sooner or later you will get a run or sag in your clear coat. There are several ways to attack the problem like trying to sand the localized high which does't work very well or buy a commercial nibbler that looks like a miniature vixen file but those don't give the fine control I like. Here is a tool that is taken from the wood-worker's cabinet scraper model.
Start with a standard single edge razor, the painter's friend! To make an effective scraper, you need to roll over the sharp edge so there is a very fine hook. The photos show two ways of doing that - the first way is to drag the edge across some 600 wet or dry a couple of times, the second is to drag it over a hard smooth rod. Both form a burr all along the edge of the blade that you can feel with your finger.
Here is a great web site dedicate to using a cabinet scraper but applies perfectly to paint scraping too!
Here is the differential partially assembled with a 9" axle shaft inserted (photo 1). Makes you drool at how easy it will be to pull!
Photo 2 shows the stock banjo axle tube ready to be relieved of its end and a replacement 9" tube end ready to go on.
Photo 3 shows all of the major parts ready to go.
There is at least one company that does this conversion turn-key but it is pretty expensive for my budget and I would rather do it myself! I use truck rear ends because they have a close mounted universal joint for a conventional open drive line whereas the passenger car axles have the integral drive-shaft and torque tube. The only remaining negative to this rear end is that it cones in 4:11 ratio but with an OD tranny, that isn't so bad.
Here are a couple of outfits that sell parts to convert a torque tube rear end to an open drive one if you have trouble finding a truck one.
The rat rod/ retro trend in rodding calls for using the old Ford banjo rear end. Nothing beats the look of that old war horse sticking out of the back end but the technology leaves a lot to be desired for a modern highway cruiser. The roller bearings at the axle ends and the tapered axles w/ the integral spider gear in the differential are notoriously weak and don't handle any late model power plant very well. Replacing a twisted axle is definitely not high on the fun list, requiring a complete tear-down of the rear end. My best friend in high school had a '40 Ford pickup with a hot 289 and huge Indy tires on the rear and was constantly breaking axle shafts.
Fortunately, it is a pretty simple matter to adapt modern Ford 9" rear end components to this rear end and still keep all of the charm of the original. An added bonus is late model 9" Ford brakes come along with the deal.
The first photo is of two spider gears from a 9" rear end. They have the same tooth pitch as the early spider gears so drop right in. They are a little too big in diameter but that is easy to fix by grinding down the OD to o fit in the old differential housing. Just grind off the part of the tooth that sticks out from the main body of the spider.
The second necessary machining operation is shown in figure 2. the ring gear and differential housing end must be bored to accept the boss of the 9" spider gear. The ring gear is understandably hard but can be successfully machined with light feed and a carbide bit.
Figure 3 shows the differential partially assembles with the new side spider gear.
a final machining operation is to cut about 0.040" off the angled face of the gear teeth on the spider gear. The are a little too high and hit the root of the differential gear.