Photo 1 shows how I modified the socket end of the extension bar. I drilled a 3/32" hole with a Hansen HSS bit. Can't use the Harbor Freight bits here, need the good stuff. A little too hard for the HF. Went fine, just took my time and used lots of oil to lube the bit. Then I found a washer that fit the bar. Finally a cotter key is used to lock the whole thing together.
Photo 2 shows the bar in place, sticking through a hole drilled high in the frame rail so the bar clears the tire.
That finishes the installation. Now to activate the hoist I use the next longest extension bar in the set (20" I think) with a ratchet from the tool kit in the car and the tire goes up and down like a dream. And it is well hidden under the car. It is way up past any frame or sheet metal. Basically it is where the factory should have put it in the first place!
Here is a shot of the Dakota lift bolted to my frame.
Now for the crank mechanism, I bought a set of long 1/2" ratchet extension bars on ebaY. Harbor Freight is also a good source for cheapies. Don't need the good stuff here, will probably only use it a couple times in the life of the car! Photo 2 shows them and the U-joint that is also needed.
The longest bar was 24" which is a little too long so I cut off about 2". Goal is to have the fat part of the bar right at the frame wall. Figure 3 shows the end of the bar cut and ground so it fits in the crank hole in the hoist.
Just about everything on the '59 Elky was an afterthought by the GM engineers. Goal was to get the car out the door to compete w/ Ford Ranchero which had a two year head start. Spare tire location is no exception. They put it in the passenger compartment behind the passenger seat taking up valuable space. The weird thing is the gas tank they used was from the station wagon which has a notch that would accept the spare under the bed of the truck! Go figure.
Anyway I wanted to put the spare under the bed and make it easy to access using a crank up cable hoist. I looked on ebaY and found a hoist that seems to be pretty common on there. It is from a Dodge Dakota pickup and is pretty modular with mounting brackets that make sense and is compact. Pretty cheap too compared to some of the units there. See photo 1. The lug on the side of the unit is a rectangular hole that accepts the crank.
Photo 2 shows the frame I made to mount the hoist. It is welded of 1" x 1 1/2" thin-walled steel tubing. Plenty strong especially with the triangulated shape. It is tacked in place in this shot to make sure everything fit. The hoist is shoved as close to the bed as possible for most room. The floors in these cars are all rusted out anyway so yo have to puts some sort of topper so bending the floor is no problem. Note the 2" square tubes that I put in between the flanges on the frame rails. Didn't have to be particular with the width of the mount, just slide these 2" tubes in or out 'til the frame bolts up then weld them to the frame.
Finally we decided to use the factory deluxe heater box to cover the ugly stuff sticking out of the firewall on the engine side. You can see the nut-serts I installed in the factory holes on page 1 of this entry but we won't be using them to mount this vent. Rather we will position it over the pipes and hoses and drill new holes where the fall in the firewall for #12 pan head stainless Phillips screws.
We had to shorten the Vintage supplied hi-pressure hard line about 2 1/2" as shown in photo 2 so it will fit under the cover. Had a local AC shop cut and weld the pipe. Clean job, I think I'll have this guy do all my aluminum welding!
We will drill the cover box to pass through the low pressure hose (box is sitting on it in photo 1) but that isn't totally ugly. Heater hoses and AC hi-pressure hard line their connectors, and that ugly rectangular hole will be totally hidden under the box. Vintage supplied a plastic cover but is fell out of the ugly tree.
The glove box that Vintage supplied is puzzling. First the side flaps ar way too long. If left that long, the bottom edge of the box doesn't reach the mounting flange on the bottom of the dash and the back of the box interferes with the AC box. We used a reproduction cardboard glove box to trim the edges as shown in photo 1. We lined up the bottom edges of each box and traced the new profile from the cardboard one to the plastic one.
Second, photo 2 shows the outside of the plastic box with two dimples in the corners of the box. The one on the right is the one Vintage molded in but as far as we could tell it is on the wrong side! It ends up toward the passenger door and there is nothing to clear there. However on the drivers side (left in photo 2) the box corner was squared out and it interfered with the 'impossible' vent described in installment 2. We used our trusty Harbor Freight heat gun to melt the three sides of that corner, then using our hands and the small coffee can shown in the photo, formed another indentation. Worked great. Don't worry about burning or overheating the plastic. It is tough stuff; process worked very easily with no worries of melting the plastic. Photo 3 shows what we will see inside the box when installed.
Note the hole we drilled for the glove box light to shine through. Took its location from the cardboard one.