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07-04-2004 07:52 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to25
Here is the headliner glued together ready to try in the cab. Once fine tuned, the joints will be bondo'd and smoothed ready for cloth covering.

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #57]

06-27-2004 10:28 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to24
Figure 1 shows the 4 quarter sections temporarily screwed into place/ sheet metal screws. I cut along the overlapped joints w/ a 4" thin grinding blade in a pneumatic slitting saw.

Photo 2 shows the pieces fitted in ready to patch w/ more resin and mat 2" mat strips. The edges of the panels have been ground thinner at the joints where the pannels come together so the mat will lay flat and won't need to be ground. Once glued together, it will be removed and more mat placed on the back side of the joints for a permanent assembly. The side of the joints that shows will be Bondo'd and sanded smooth.

Photo 3 shows that 3 layers of 1 1/2 oz mat will result in a 1/8" thick fiberglass panel. The kicker board is there to line up the edge on the panels 'cause the front one was a tad lower. Also, note the narrow filler strips I need to glass into the top over the doors. The drip rails on the top prevented me from forming that part of the liner down far enough to reach the door opening and capture the eventual wind-lace that will go there. I cut the fillers from some scrap glass strips cut out when fitting the quarter panels.

All the above headliner work took a 10 hour day to complete. I estimate I still have about 4 hours before the headliner is finished.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #56]

06-27-2004 10:19 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to23
The fiberglass was left to harden about an hour then popped right off. Photo 1 shows it after the rough edges were trimmed off. Note the PVA being peeled off like cellophane. The parts that don't peel wash off with water, the stuff is very water soluable.

Photo 2 shows how the part must be cut in quarters to fit inside the cab which is of course smaller than the outside.

Photo 3 shows the inside of the cab that I described earlier in the journal. The rectangular tubing top supports will serve dual duty as bracket to hold the fiberglass in place for fitting.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #55]

06-27-2004 10:10 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to22
I decided to make a one-piece fiberglass headliner instead of trying to do the card board like the original. I used the top of the truck to make the 'glass part. Photo 1 shows the top taped off and sprayed with a light coat of ugly green catalyzed one step urethane. I did this to seal the primer. It will be sanded off before I paint the cab.

I then coated it with mold release wax (tin on the right. Don't use car wax, it won't work. Only use mold release wax). Then I sprayed on a heavy coat of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA - gallon jug on the left.) The latter forms a tough film that won't stick to the wax or the polyester resin, just good insurance against sticking in case the wax job isn't 100% covered.

Then I laid up three layers of 1.5oz fiberglass mat. Took about 1 1/2 gallons of resin (photo 2).

Photo 3 shows the finished lay-up out in the sun soaking up UV radiation. UV exposure rapidly accelerates resin hardening.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #54]

06-24-2004 11:35 PM '53 AD extended cab how-to21
Here are a couple shots of the horn button grommet. I cut the late model gray plastic one about in half and grafted the '53 black grommet and pigtail wire to it. Works great and fits the hole in the wheel perfectly.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #53]

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