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04-25-2004 09:31 PM Power windows for old risers, continued
One final observation; the Ford motors have or will soon have disintegrated little nylon rollers in the drive head. Don't ask me why they used this design and don't ask me why they used a plastic material that disintegrates. I don't have the foggiest! Photo 1 shows the internals of the gear head. There is a 3-lobed boss on the back of the gear that accepts the rollers, 3 rollers, and a large nylon worm gear driven by the worm on the motor shaft. Those 3 Little nylon rollers are the ones that go by-by.

Photo 2 shows one nylon roller inserted between the window riser gear and the hollow worm gear. shove all three rollers in there and mash the whole thing together, grease it up good and it will last forever.

The nylon rollers are still available.

Once assembled, the modified window riser bolts right in place as it did when it operated manually. Hook up a window switch and you have cheap, easy, robust power windows!

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #12]

04-25-2004 09:24 PM Power windows for old risers, continued
The first two photos here show the 1/2" square tubing and 1/4" thick plate spacers I needed for my '53 mechanisms to get the motor to fit. Your risers may be built differently and need other mounting accommodations.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #11]

04-25-2004 09:21 PM Power windows for old window risers
One feature we all want in our street rods is power windows. The usual approach is to buy an expensive kit that requires mounting a wobbly mechanism inside a door in three dimensions. It usually takes several cut and tries before the blasted things work and even then they often cause the window glass to tilt and bind. The best solution would be to mount an electric motor on the stock mechanisms. That would guarantee smooth operation and easy installation.

We are in luck! It turns out that many if not most old window crank gears have the same gear pitch as common Ford window riser motors. I did this conversion on my '53 Chevy pickup project and it works perfectly. These motors are available by the thousands at your local Pick-A-Part.

Photo 1 show the '53 riser mechanism with the window crank gear removed, ready to cut an access hole for the Ford motor.

Photo 2 show the old bearing cut out and a flat plate welded in.

Photo 3 shows holes drilled for the 3 Ford mounting screws, for the motor shaft and the motor mounted on.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #10]

04-16-2004 11:46 PM Gas tank 3 (continued)
These two photos are of the gas tank filler door I got out of the junk yard and grafted on from some foreign car. The door was originally flat so I had to hammer it to the shape of the fender.

The final step was to cut the gas tank sender off the '53 tank and braze it in place on the sending unit bracket in the new tank so I can use my '53 gas gauge.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #9]

04-16-2004 11:41 PM Gas tank 2 (continued)
Photo 1 shows the clearance gained from the drop in the top of the tank that fits perfectly around the X-member and emergency brake rod on the pickup.

Photo 2 show how I routed the gas filler pipe from the back of the tank, through the bed skirt under the passenger fender leading to the gas filler door I mounted in the front of that fender.

(click photo to enlarge)

(click photo to enlarge)
  [Entry #8]

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