One of the problems in building a '59 thru early '60 Chevy is the wiper motor. Your project car usually comes with a motor and if that doesn't work you buy one off ebaY. You can always buy a $300 reconditioned motor that you know will work but what's the fun of that? Regardless of the source, the first thing you need to do is see if it works.
Here are directions on testing one of these (2-speed) motors out of the car. It an easily be done using your 12V battery charger. These motors are controlled using a circuit based on manipulating the grounding of a couple of terminals. Here is how to do it;
First make a couple of short lead wires by stripping both ends. Put one end of each wire through the two outside terminals of the plug on the motor. These are terminals 1& 3 shown in the diagram. Make a third such lead wire that is connected to the middle terminal 2.
Now hook your battery charger to the motor as follows; hook the positive clip on the charger to the lead on the center terminal. This is all time hot and is never disconnected. Next hook the long thin brass sheet metal ground lead that comes out of the motor body to the negative clamp on your battery charger. This is all-time ground and is never disconnected.
You are now ready to test the motor.
To simulate low speed, touch both outside leads from terminals 1 & 3 to the ground clamp on your charger. Motor should start and run.
To simulate high speed, disconnect the lead on outside terminal #3 and let it hang free. The motor should speed up noticeably.
Finally to park the motor, hook both leads from outside terminals to each outer but not to ground and the motor should run until the crank is to one side and stop. It should stop there every time.
If these things don't happen, you will need to open the unit and likely just clean up a couple contacts, make sure the brushes touch the commutator. These are really well made units and not a lot goes wrong. A lot of them don't work but it is usually a simple maintenance cause that is easily fixed.
Mock-up of bolted joint. Note the slight compression of donuts.
The snug fit of the hose in the donuts allowed us to pre-assemble the stack onto the frame before lowering on the body. Slick. The loose tubing inside the hose and loose bolts inside the tubing allows easy stabbing of the bolts into the nuts. The frame is really nicely painted, just dusty in this shot.
We are at the point to mount the body back on the chassis of my grandson's '59 Elky and we have drawn a blank trying to find rubber body mounts. No one makes them any longer. We decided to make our own. We went to a local rubber supply here in Bakersfield and they graciously gave us a 2' x 18" x 3/4" thick piece of neoprene from their rem stack. We cut 18 donuts and two 2-1/2" x 3" rectangles (for the front mounts) from the sheet. We used a 2-3/8" hole saw for the outer rim of the donut and 1-1/8" saw for the core of the donut and holes through the rectangles. We then cut 1 5/8" long pieces of 3/4" rubber hose that are a tight fit inside the donuts and a tight fit in the body mount holes in the frame. Finally we cut 1 9/16" long pieces of steel tubing that are loose fitting inside the hose and easily pass the 7/16" body bolts. The hose and tubing are slightly shorter than the donut stack so they are compressed when the bolts are tightened for a firm mount. The hose keeps the body well positioned on the chassis. All in all, we made our body mounts for under $20 compared to the over $100 we would have paid a vendor, if the mounts were even available. We could have probably used 1/2" thick rubber which may be closer to the factory thickness but body fits on very nicely w/ the 3/4" rubber.
Here are the donuts being cut from the rubber sheet and hose being cut to length on band saw.
the turn signal canceling cams for '58 thru '60 Chevy steering columns that are supplied in after-market repair kits are notoriously ineffective. The plastic cam that is supposed to flick two steel lugs on a nutating member and cancel the signal is too small diameter so doesn't work. My fix as shown in these two photos is to simply cut a piece of 16ga steel, form it to a tight fit on the plastic cam, rough both pieces with 30grit sandpaper and epoxy them together. Problem solved.