The pictures below show the control arms with the spindle removed. Then the new spindle, the slotted and cross drilled rotors and finally the calipers installed, behind the spindle where they belong. I checked the relationship between the tie rod and control arm and it is much improved. It will be easier to determine once I can get the car level. Of course a new alignment will be needed and we can evaluate better then.
At sometime in the past a previous owner installed dropped spindles on the Nova subframe in my Studebaker. While performing a front end alignment my local mechanic pointed out that the tie rods and lower control arms were not parallel and that was causing bump steer resulting in significant toe out. I had experienced unusual tire wear in the past and now I know why. To resolve this I found a new set of spindles and brakes from Toms Classics on EBay. The pictures below show the old spindles and brakes. Notice that the calipers are in front of the spindle. This makes me wonder if the spindles are actually for a later model front steer Camaro and had been installed on opposite sides to put the steering arms at the rear.
I found a cold air box with a filter inside from Spectre, via Summit Racing that would fit between the radiator and motor. It flows 780 CFM which is more than enough for my LS1. Using a 4 inch hole saw, I cut a hole in my inner fender well (scary thing to do!). Routing the air duct proved to be harder than I thought and I ended up using flexible ducting from Spectre to get through into the fender area. This ducting snaps into shape and is quite sturdy. Once inside the fender, I routed down to the back of the air intake scoop and used the hole saw again to give it an inlet. I will have to be careful not to run through any deep puddles!
The final step was to paint the new panel. I had planned to repaint my front bumper and the lower air scoop so I did them all at the same time. I am pleased with the outcome. It looks good and I believe performance has improved.
Next step was to get it to fit right. I cut the corners and bent the metal, then welded the cuts together. I also welded tabs onto the back to hold the radiator in place. Next step was doing body work and priming the panel. Then I had to find radiator hoses that would fit. My local auto parts store was very helpful and studying their Gates book helped narrow the search.
I decided to replace the conventional down flow radiator with a double pass cross flow in order to get both the inlet and outlet on the passenger side. This gives me more room to route a cold air intake. I found a good deal on a radiator that will fit from CFR via EBay. Also purchased the matching shroud and bolted my existing SPAL fan to it. The radiator did not have a drain petcock so I got one along with a bung from a local radiator shop and had a friend TIG weld it in his welding class at the local community college. I also needed to come up with a new way to mount it since the old radiator bolted to the core support on the side. I decided to fabricate some simple saddles bolted to the bottom of the core support for it to sit in and then fabricate a top piece to hold it in place. To build the top piece I first made a cardboard template. Then we used a plasma cutter and sheet metal brake to duplicate it in 18 gauge sheet metal.