The LS1 EFI requires significant fuel pressure to run properly and I have considered a number of options. One was to use my stock Studebaker tank and run an inline pump, I did not choose this because I thought the external pump would be noisy and since the stock tank is not baffled I could encounter fuel starvation problems. Another was to use an intank pump and modify the Studebaker tank for it too fit. The Studebaker tank was too shallow for the pump in stock form, so I would have to put a sump in it to make it deeper. The option I chose instead was to purchase a tank from Tanks Inc that is designed for a 49-52 Chevy. This tank is baffled and also is set up to use their own high performance in tank pump. I like the idea of having the pump in the tank, I believe the fuel will cool and quiet the pump some and this combination is designed to work together so that is one less think to have to figure out. The Tanks Inc will take the sending unit that works with my Dolphin Gauge so that is another plus. The filler is in the correct corner of the tank though I will have to do some fabrication to get the filler neck fitted. I will cover mounting in the next segment.
Well I have the Sandersons now and have tried some fittings. As expected the passenger side fits just fine. The drivers side fits about like I expected, I ordered them expecting to have to move the first pipe and possibly the second one a little bit. You can see they would work fine if I could just start at the second port, LOL. I may still move the motor back some to make this easier and then notch the crossmember for alternator clearance. Though that would take some extra work, I believe it may be the best solution. Stay tuned.
Well the good news is the we positioned the motor far enough forward so the alternator fits with just the right amount of clearance. The bad news is moving the motor forward has made the exhaust -- steering conflict much worse. I had a street rod club member, who is pretty good at modifying and fabricating headers, come over and we brainstormed our (actually MY) options. The passenger side shorty header fits just fine, but the drivers side has the collector totally on top of the steering box. The 3/4 of an inch the motor moved forward to gain clearance for the alternator has had a huge impact. There is no way that header will work and none of the cast iron manifolds I have will fit either. I have searched the various LS1 header vendors looking for one that has a collector pretty far back and found that Sanderson has one that looks pretty good. So I have ordered the Sanderson headers, got a pretty decent deal for the base metal versions. Once we have them modified, I can send them back to Sanderson and they will ceramic coat them for me for $120. Not a bad deal at all.
Here you can see the motor sitting in place with the frame mounts just sitting on the frame, the next two photos show the frame mounts bolted in place. In the stock location there is additional steel plate inside the crossmember to reinforce the bolt hole area. The location I was going to bolt to had no such reinforcement. My solution was to take some 3/16 steel plate and cut it to fit the area behind the crossmember then use the frame mounts to mark hole locations for the bolts. Once that was done, I put the bolts in the backing plates and welded them in place. This served two purposes, the area these would have to come up though inside the crossmember is very difficult to access, so having the bolts welded to the plate kept them from falling out and also eliminated the need to get a wrench on them when I went to tighten them up. You can see the frame mounts bolted in place and the primer on them that I used to mark the locations,
The fabricated frame mounts were welded in place so out came the cut off tool and the angle grinder. They came off pretty cleanly with no damage to the frame crossmember. I found stock Nova mounts on-line and they came quickly. The next step involved bolting the motor mounts to the engine, then the frame mounts to the motor mounts and lowering the whole thing into place to determine the best position. One of the other fitment challenges is the alternator which is mounted low on the drivers side with the standard F-body brackets. I want to retain the stock serpentine set up if I can. That places the alternator very close to the crossmember. If I can get it to fit without having to notch the frame I would like to do that. With the help of a friend we were able to get the motor placed just right so the alternator fit. I then took some primer and sprayed around the frame mounts to mark their location, pulled the motor out and drilled holes to mount the frame. Remember that the subframe has been narrowed, so the stock hole locations will not work.